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apophisOAS

help with imaging - newbie to Solar

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going to pick up kit soon,

Lunt LS60THa/B1200CPT 60mm H-Alpha Telescope, Crayford Focuser, Pressure Tuner
ZWO ASI178MM USB3.0 Back-Illuminated Monochrome CMOS Camera with SONY STARVIS and Exmor R Technology
SkyWatcher SolarQuest Solar GOTO tracking Mount and Tripod with HelioFind Solar Alignment Technology

Also Baader flip mirror,

appreciate any tips for imaging.

thanks,

Roger

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The main issue is to tune the etalon and get focus just right for optimal contrast. Once you have got that right, grab 1000 frames at such an exposure time that you fill the histogram well, without saturation. Using a white plastic bag or a few layers of cling film over the scope allows you to take flats, to correct for uneven illumination and dust bunnies. Did you have a look at the tutorials yet?

These should provide a good starting point.

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Wishing you well.

 

That Skywatcher Solarquest looks interesting......But you've already got an EQ6 :D

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Good info from Michael above.  I use to use the cling film technique for flats but I find a decent defocus works just as well.

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Hi Roger

First Unless you've bought a scope with straight through blocking filter, don't even think about using that flip mirror, you'll destroy your camera or eyes instantly,  You must use the blocking filter supplied if it is the standard diagonal type.

Not greatest time to go solar, As we're at solar minimum the surface of the sun is blank for the most part.  Proms spring up though and there have been some nice ones.

Check http://halpha.nso.edu/   This will show the sun in Ha from various scopes around the world updated every minute. Look for the images with the little green boxes in the corner. These show the time lapsed in minutes since they were taken and any proms, spot, etc will show up and let you know whether or not its worth setting up. Even a blank sun can be worth the effort as a focussing exercise.

Before you start playing with the camera, you need to learn how to use the scope visually to get the best out of it.  Use an eyepiece that gives a full disc, I like my meade 26 or 19 panoptic, Concentrate on the edge and bring into focus as sharp as you can. If your lucky and there are both proms and surface detail, (check website) adjusting the tuner will either bring the proms or surface detail into sharper focus. readjust the focus to sharpen further.  Play around with proms and surface adjusting focus and tuning as needed.  You'll soon get the hang of it,  One other thing worth noting is that solar scopes have "sweet spots" where feature show up better. Focusing on a prom, Use your hand control to move it around in the field of view,  you will find that it will fade away to nothing or sharpen and brighten.

Once you've got this part out of the way the camera should be pretty straight forward for you.

All the best

Steve

 

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On 12/02/2020 at 14:44, bilbo said:

Even a blank sun can be worth the effort as a focussing exercise.Before you start playing with the camera, you need to learn how to use the scope visually to get the best out of it.  Use an eyepiece that gives a full disc, I like my meade 26 or 19 panoptic, Concentrate on the edge and bring into focus as sharp as you can.

Steve

 

Going for the LUNT 1.25-INCH ZOOM EYEPIECE 7.2MM - 21.5MM,

Thanks for all the info,

Roger

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10 hours ago, Stu said:

Is the Lunt any better than the other similar clones Roger? The Opticstar version is much cheaper for example.

http://www.opticstar.com/Run/Astronomy/Astro-Accessories-Telescopes-Opticstar.asp?p=0_10_5_1_8_330

You may be right , but just wanted to stay with Lunt .

If you have a Rolls Royce you would only use there own spares if you could afford it?

Roger

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Or just get the best HA zoom there is. 

The Pentax XF Zoom is my favourite HA eyepiece. Find it just as good as a very goof ortho despite it being a zoom. It is a far higher quality eyepiece than the Lunt both in build quality and optically.. Wex always seems to have the lowest price on it. Some UK dealers charge £100.00 more than Wex. 🙀

https://www.wexphotovideo.com/pentax-xf-65-195mm-zoom-eyepiece-1529787/?mkwid=s9OF3Sj7c_dc&pcrid=310558796128&kword=&match=&plid=&product=1529787&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjqTouMrQ5wIVmpntCh2WTwisEAQYASABEgIi0PD_BwE

Edited by johninderby
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There are no Rolls Royces or Porsches. You're observing a single very tight wavelength, so for the most part everything gets reduced to a Vauxhall Corsa performance. Just like a formula one race in the rain. its a great equalizer, I have some "cheap" WA ep's that look identical to the Lunt models, They all work great, The Baader zooms also seem to work well as should everything really,  Main differences will be in the coatings on the ep's which could reduce transmission at Ha wavelengths and dim the image.

Just play about, try everything you have, have fun in the sun

Steve

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Very nice, I hope you get as much enjoyment from yours as I get from mine.

Ade

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obviously this is just out of the box , but not sure how to turn it around as it has to face the same way as the sun sensor for tracking. as it slews upwards it seems to have nice clearance at the mo.

Roger

 

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If it has clearance then should be ok.

Otherwise it'll be a simple loosen of that clamshell and turn of the ota. Good luck - I'm still waiting on calmer weather, with a bit more warmth!

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14 hours ago, Altocumulus said:

If it has clearance then should be ok.

Otherwise it'll be a simple loosen of that clamshell and turn of the ota. Good luck - I'm still waiting on calmer weather, with a bit more warmth!

That's the way I use mine. 

IMG_20191229_142035.jpg

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Thanks, didnt realise the tripod fitted on a SW tripod if i am only solar watching i will do this , for extra satbility but if i need to deepsky asrograpghy i would probably need to use the tripod that came with it so i can set up my EQ6-r and dual rig for night.

Where did you get the power adapter from as having trouble finding the exact one?appendum  **** i have know found one..

Also how do you find the preassure adjustment , is right you undo it untill theres a pop or hiss and that equalises the preasure then just turn untill it stops and adjust for detail when you have aquired an image?

Roger

Edited by apophisOAS

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Ho Roger, at the beginning of the session I usually completely remove the pressure tuner and then replace until it show details, at sea level I usually have to tune mine fairly full in. Hope that helps.

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I invested in a Lunt PC Controller because I sit comfortably indoors while it all happens outside :D

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