Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

stargazine_ep21_banner.thumb.jpg.d744e66b98367f1c5d57b7966c303f1b.jpg

Recommended Posts

Just thought i'll bring this up as a point of discussion. Today, cooled CMOS Astro Cameras are available in plenty. QHY, ZWO and other variants of the same camera are selling for very reasonable prices. However, there was a point of time when astrophotographers used to cool down their DSLR's as a cheap OSC alternative to CCD cameras. Give a choice, I would've purchased a dedicated CMOS OSC which can cool to 40 C below ambient, but since I had a Canon 500D which I had self modded, I requested a friend Kaustav Chatterjee (an avid model railroader) to cold mod my 500D (he had cold modded his 1000D long back). This newly modded camera has a TEC12703 single peltier and cools to approximately 20 below ambient.What do you guys think?

IMG_0469.JPG

IMG_0470.JPG

IMG_0471.JPG

IMG_0472.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good work! DIY is mandatory in amateur astronomy ūüėÄ

does it work well?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just completed a similar project. Mine seems to cool the sensor down to 15 or so below ambient as reported by the Exif temp. Created for my EOS 600D. It will keep a steady Exif temp of 5 deg C on 300s subs if I put a 15s pause between exposures. Could possibly go colder when the ambient temp is sub zero but it's a balance between cooling a power consumption. It is using a 5 amp TEC.

 

IMG_20200119_120339.jpg

IMG_20200119_120409.jpg

IMG_20200119_184836 (1).jpg

IMG_20200119_120238.jpg

IMG_20200119_120310.jpg

IMG_20200119_120354.jpg

IMG_20200119_184405.jpg

Edited by Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By laks20
      Hi
      I own a Skywatcher SynScan 130P Explorer but I find it does not take good astro images and now I hardly use it  which is really sad and with some money coming in the next few months I want to sell it and buy another good scope to support taking pics of the night sky. 
      Well, my question and I need  advice : Since I am really enjoying photographing the night sky at the moment, I am using my Canon 70 D on a good tripod with Samyung 14mm or Tokina 11- 14mm. I have got some ok pics from this of the Milky Way but I am not greatly  satisfied with the results much. As an upgrade, I am keen on buying a star tracker  and a astro modified camera( or something similar to this ). (I want to kick myself as I sold my Canon 450D two years ago for £100) Do you think I should ?  Is this useful ? Can I use the Star tracker with my canon 70D? Also, If I get the star tracker will a astro modified camera help me take better pics. I have seen some stuff on You tube , but I am confused. Also , If I buy another scope will I be able to use the modified camera with that ?
      Sorry for asking so many questions. 
    • By Abhinav
      Can I reach focus with a DSLR and a focal reducer like with a barlow because my telescope does not have enough inward focus .
    • By AstroRuz
      A second hand Canon 450D that has had the IR filter and anti-aliasing filters removed. This is known as the Full-Spectrum (or naked sensor) modification.   This enhances the camera's sensitivity to Hydrogen Alpha wavelengths greatly. Ideal for shooting emission nebulae, as well as making it a great candidate for Hydrogen Alpha filters.   The camera has been modified by myself. It includes the camera body itself, body cap, battery, charger, plug, strap and I'll throw in an EOS-T2 T ring.   Bit of cosmetic wear to the camera as to be expected.   Note: removing the IR filters means that you'll need to add an astro-friendly IR filter back into the imaging train. This is usually achieved with filters like the Astronomik CLS-CCD filter (for example). Just check the description and make sure it has UV/IR cut.   £150 + £11 Postage (Royal Mail Special Delivery)








    • By MarsG76
      I managed to get some time to process another of my images exposed in January/February 2020.
      This was the last image when my USB port on my Astro40D failed. This happened while imaging this scene but it happened toward the end of the imaging plan so I got almost the subs that I wanted. The total exposure time was 16 hours and 16 minutes in ISO1600 for all of the subs, RGB, (OSC through the UV/IR Cut filter), HAlpha and OIII.
      Imaged through my 8" SCT at f6.3, 1280mm FL.
    • By aditya10
      Hello!
      This is my first post on stargazer’s lounge, so forgive me if this is the wrong place to ask. 
      I have a SkyWatcher AZ-GTi mount (with a firmware update + eq wedge so that it can run in eq mode). I also have a Raspberry Pi 4 with INDI, KStars, and Ekos tools. I don’t have a guidescope (and my budget is extremely limited), so I was wondering if there was a way to polar align my DSLR using just the software running on the Raspberry Pi. 
      I’m also competent in Python, if that could be useful for anything. 
√ó
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.