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Has anyone used the celestron lithium powertank (the small one, not the pro version) with a skywatcher HEQ5?
It looks like it should be perfect but that is coming from someone who is relatively clueless
From the skywatcher specs, it looks like the mount needs 2 amps of current, and the powertank supplies 3, so that should be good?
It also looks like the power cable is a double-ended tip-positive 2.1 mm plug, so i assume that even though it doesn't have one of those 12V car battery inputs, it shouldn't matter right?
(just to save people some time, i'm not going to bother with a lead battery / leisure battery / jump-start pack / etc)
Celestron C8 XLT + extras and SkyWatcher Star Travel 80 (ST80)
I have a Celestron C8 with XLT Starbrite coatings. Will include the full length base plate, both visual and imaging backs, scope rings, front 8" end cap and the finder scope with it. No box I'm afraid. Optics are good and clean, focal length is huge - 2300mm from memory. This lot would cost close to £1300 new and one with less spec went for £750 on fleabay recently. Might be interested in a part exchange or will let it go for £450 collection only.
Also, I have a SkyWatcher Star Traveler 80 - good optics, used as a guide scope - just the scope itself (does not include the barlow in the photo) - now including dovetail bar and scope rings looking at around £50 for it.
I have decided to save up for another refractor, WO, Equinox or even toward an Esprit. However, I would also consider p/ex for an Intel NUC and/or Pegasus Astro Pocket Powerbox.
Please excuse some of the colours - I used my astro modded 6D which was in the observatory so the "nice" purple is actually black !!
Both these are collection only.
By Clear Skies!
I have Celestron AstroMaster 130 eq. I know how to attach the motor driver, too. I want to dive into astrophotography. But I don't know:
How can I accurate polar align my telescope, if it doesn't have any polar scope? I think drift polar-alignment is very hard. Is there any other way? How fast must be the motor driver's speed if I don't have polar-aligned telescope yet? I am buying my new Orion StarShoot G4 Monochrome Deep Space Imaging Camera. Is it good that I attach Orion camera on Celestron telescope? I want to buy ZWO 1.25" LRGB Imaging Filter Set. Is it good to attach ZWO on Orion and Celestron? Is it a good choice to select these machines? And finally: is Celestron AstroMaster 130 eq telescope good enough for astro imaging? (I want to image DSO objects.) Thank you for your effort and time.
I'd say it's been about 6 years since I last posted on this forum, oops 😁.
Anyway Ive been looking for a new scope something with abit more punch than the skywatcher 130m I have been using and came across this beaut on eBay, I won the auction and picked it up yesterday. The guy was selling it on behalf of an elderly gentleman man who couldn't use it anymore, (it's been sitting in an unheated garage for many years 😩) he had no idea on the make or model other than its a c8, I did a bit of research and found its a c8 super polaris.
The mount has both RA and Dec axis motors but I have no way to power them, the action of the mount is buttery smooth. However I plan to mount this on my HEQ5 anyway...
The scope its self seems to be in good condition some minor scratches on the tube but nothing too alarming, no finderscope or dust cover but I plan on adding my own finder anyway. The focus is super smoothe and can't see much if any image shift in use (not tested on a star yet due to preverbial clouds)
My main concern is as its been in an unheated garage for some considerable time and there seems to be some minor mildew on the primary which I plan on cleaning... when I feel brave enough..
I don't think the secondary screws are original, should be Phillips head? Tested on a small light down the garden and it seems to be well collimated, but does have a small amount of mildew on it
I don't recognise the mounting bar, I would like to swap it to a vixen style bar so I can mount it on my HEQ5 maybe this?
Anyway that's where I am with it sorry its been so long since I last posted, I hope to be a tad more active on here.
Time for yet another cry for help when it comes to choosing diagonal. I have read the many similar threads and gathered some knowledge (too many to start linking). I have come some way in my process and now that it is coming to final decisions I would like to hear from the experts. Not many of threads I have read end with the OP returning to deliver some review/verdict of his/her final decision. While I wait for response on some thread where I asked about the result, the eagerness in me forces me to write my own thread. Perhaps some of the people asking these questions before can now answer in my thread as experts!
I have the Nexstar Evolution 9.25 and am currently using the stock diagonal. My eyepieces are the Baader 8-24 mm zoom and the stock 40 mm Plössl. I would also like to upgrade EPs and there I'm looking at something better in 24 mm range, as well some nice low power for more FOV. I'm following threads about EPs and SCTs with great interest for this (on CN). Can say that I'm currently leaning towards the 1.25" 24 mm ES 68° and 2" 36 mm Hyperion aspheric (if going 2" route).
I'm thinking 2 alternatives (including a budget alternative for one of them). I'm looking at Baader mainly for ClickLock (and expect good optics):
Baader T2 Zeiss prism with a 1.25" ClickLock EP (T2 part #08) -OR- the 2" prism with 2" ClickLock (splurging that is). The budget alternative would be to get the non-Zeiss T2 prism instead for the 1.25". Worth noting that I would like to get the Celestron f/6.3 Reducer/Corrector. This would be for future purposes of delving into EAA but of course I would use it visually as well (especially if choosing the T2 route). The reasoning for my alternatives:
Go for the 2" Zeiss prism to theoretically get the best of the best in visual terms. I would make better use of the 46 mm baffle tube opening. Theoretically possible to combine with the R/C thanks to relative short light path (although not necessarily needed with 2" EPs). Downside of going to 2" accessories would be the cost, EPs, filters etc., on top of diagonal. Would not be able to spend all these costs at once. Cheaper route with T2 prism (especially the non-Zeiss), not only diagonal but also the other accessories. Cost of the R/C would be comparable to e.g. the 36 mm aspheric and give similar power and FOV with the 24 mm ES, i.e. the 24 mm would act as both. Extra plus is the ClickLock clamp for 1.25" with built in fine focusing not involving the mirror. Downside of knowing that not all light coming out of baffle tube is used. To get the wide FOV (24 mm + R/C) I'm adding glass to the optical train (theoretically not a good thing). I'm leaning towards the T2 as it would be a cheaper diagonal and for EPs I would only need the 24 mm and then the reducer instead of a 30-40 mm, so saving the expense of one EP. Then I would already have the reducer for continuing into EAA. The questions I hope the experts here can help with:
The old reducer vs 2" diagonal question. With R/C and the 24 mm I can get roughly the same mag and FOV as e.g. the 36 mm Hyperion (technically 38 mm vs 36 mm and 68° vs 72°). Also reading good things about the ES 68° and with R/C the EP should behave the same. Am I missing something here? The logics say that the I would lose some contrast with the R/C (not using full opening + adding elements), correct? Possibly flatter fields though (not important now, hopefully the EP threads might tell soon enough). The Zeiss vs non-Zeiss T2? Big differences? I have read a few posts on this so most to get some updated views here (have read that Baader has changed some things over the years). Using the R/C (f/6.3) with these prisms. I know f/7 is mentioned as "the limit" but also remember BillP's test where he was happy down to f/6 with the prisms (in 2014 at least). Perhaps most important: have I missed some other obvious alternative here? Maybe I have forgotten some question here but perhaps for the best as I assume those who have gotten this far are tired of reading now. Thanks for getting here though!