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Astro-threads for Fusion 360


Paul Gerlach

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7 hours ago, AlexK said:

Exactly. The actual problem is not the printer but the filament. Even from the same vendor the same filament type may print different between batches. Add to that the hygroscopic nature of almost every filament, which means it may print different after a day of sitting open on the spool rollers. I would recommend simply learning your particular printer quirks (Ender-3 is a good modern enough choice for tinkering at home no doubt) and test-printing each new filament you get. With experience you will know at once how to adjust your model or slicer to fix any issues (or use them to your advantage). I'm personally never expecting my prints sub-millimeter perfect, thus keeping a toolset of precision woodworking chisels,  Dremel bits, and the fine soldering work heat gun at hand.

Hi

A lot of problems I've had the printer was definitely the problem. But yes, pla filament properties change over time mainly because of its hygroscopic nature. I first got the printer about 15 months ago and more or less went straight into using it to build a spectrometer. However, I really should have got more familiar with the printer first live and learn! Since then I've only used the printer sporadically and for making small parts. Any parts involving 0.75mm pitch threads are still a challenge!

Louise

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22 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

You have a posh printer!

It has been very reliable so far which is the main thing.

The print came out pretty well.  The bottom thread against the glass printed thicker at one point which I suspose was to be expected, so I trimmed this off with a stanley knife, and it has worked well.  I'll paint it matt black later.

It reduces the opening of the lens from 64mm to 45mm, to go from F2.8 to F4.0, which I've found gives me the best overall stars with the FF camera.

 

 

 

IMG_5872.JPG

IMG_5870.JPG

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17 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

The print came out pretty well.  The bottom thread against the glass printed thicker at one point which I suspose was to be expected, so I trimmed this off with a stanley knife, and it has worked well.  I'll paint it matt black later.

It reduces the opening of the lens from 64mm to 45mm, to go from F2.8 to F4.0, which I've found gives me the best overall stars with the FF camera.

Looks nice indeed. Reminds my very old project (I have my 3D Printer from 2012) for mounting a 2" NB filter on the Nikkor DSLR lens.

So if you plan to replace it often, check threads periodically. I think, for such a trivial adapter it would be easier to just re-print it again when it starts showing signs of wear (vs designing a threads-less cassette mechanism). And that's another benefit of the 3D printer at hand: nonstop improvement possibility.

Edited by AlexK
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On 10/12/2020 at 03:19, Thalestris24 said:

A lot of problems I've had the printer was definitely the problem.

If you describe just one, I bet I could narrow it down to the filament issue :)

By the way, is there a dedicated general 3D printing thread on the forum? So we could avoid hijacking this one chit-chatting around the subject?

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8 hours ago, AlexK said:

If you describe just one, I bet I could narrow it down to the filament issue :)

By the way, is there a dedicated general 3D printing thread on the forum? So we could avoid hijacking this one chit-chatting around the subject?

Most of the problems I had were to do with the bed not being level, or not staying level. I realised after a while that the y-axis was loose... Tightened that up and improved things but still had problems. Upgraded the bed springs - big improvement, but still had some stability problems. My next hopeful is to add nuts to the loose bed screws. I'll be doing that soon. I'm only using the printer occasionally. Yes, there are filament issues but they aren't the main problem. I have a new reel of pva to put on. However, it will last me about a year. I suppose I really should take the reel off and put it in a sealed bag with some silica gel after using the printer.

I think I did start a 3d printer topic about 18 months? or so ago but it was just a topic in the diy astronomer thread. I'm sure there have been others.

Louise

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On 11/12/2020 at 09:40, tooth_dr said:

It has been very reliable so far which is the main thing.

The print came out pretty well.  The bottom thread against the glass printed thicker at one point which I suspose was to be expected, so I trimmed this off with a stanley knife, and it has worked well.  I'll paint it matt black later.

It reduces the opening of the lens from 64mm to 45mm, to go from F2.8 to F4.0, which I've found gives me the best overall stars with the FF camera.

 

 

 

IMG_5872.JPG

IMG_5870.JPG

Hi again

I meant to ask what the cylindrical protrusions are for - just to provide some grip, maybe? I printed out a 58mm x 0.75 thread part this evening :) It actually worked first time - miracles do happen! It's for part of a (focus rail) microscope illumination system (a work in progress :) ). Microscopes can be as good a source of diy/3d projects as can astro gear! That reminds me - I must get back to the Lowspec spectrometer that I started over a year ago! I put it to one side - never a good idea, really. It's all built but needs some tweaks and commissioning, and maybe some reprinting of parts.

Louise

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5 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

I meant to ask what the cylindrical protrusions are for - just to provide some grip, maybe? I printed out a 58mm x 0.75 thread part this evening :) It actually worked first time - miracles do happen!

Glad to hear it worked!  Yes they were just to help screw it in and out. 

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  • 1 month later...

I'm trying to get M54 x 0.75 thread specs

All that I've found is the internal :

<MajorDia>54.000</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>53.671</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>53.378</MinorDia>

But I don't know what is the class or if it's even correct

 

 

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1 minute ago, tala said:

I'm trying to get M54 x 0.75 thread specs

All that I've found is the internal :

<MajorDia>54.000</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>53.671</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>53.378</MinorDia>

But I don't know what is the class or if it's even correct

 

 

I've printed M54 0.75 male ok, I'm at work so cant access the figures, but can post them later if you arent sorted. 

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1 hour ago, tala said:

I'm trying to get M54 x 0.75 thread specs

All that I've found is the internal :

<MajorDia>54.000</MajorDia>
<PitchDia>53.671</PitchDia>
<MinorDia>53.378</MinorDia>

But I don't know what is the class or if it's even correct

 

 

Hi

If you can't wait, there's a calculator here: GewindetoleranzRechner ISO-Gewinde DIN 13 (iso-gewinde.at)

I found I had to do a little trial and error on my cheapo Ender 3 Pro :) I don't think you need to worry about so many decimal places for an ordinary 3D print.

Louise

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2 hours ago, tala said:

Appreciate it thanks !

Here is my file - i incorporated the commonly used astro threads into it.  I did have a separate astro thread section, but as the title post here explains, every time Fusion360 updates itself you have to reinstall it.  With them in this file then they remain in the program after updates.

 

 

ISOMetricprofile.xml

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This is the M54 thread itself:

<ThreadDesignation>M54x0.75</ThreadDesignation>

<CTD>M54x0.75</CTD>

<Pitch>0.75</Pitch>


-<Thread>

<Gender>external</Gender>

<Class>6g</Class>

<MajorDia>53.908</MajorDia>

<PitchDia>53.4409</PitchDia>

<MinorDia>53.0475</MinorDia>

</Thread>


-<Thread>

<Gender>internal</Gender>

<Class>6H</Class>

<MajorDia>54.1201</MajorDia>

<PitchDia>53.5789</PitchDia>

<MinorDia>53.2831</MinorDia>

<TapDrill>53.25</TapDrill>

</Thread>


-<Thread>

<Gender>external</Gender>

<Class>4g6g</Class>

<MajorDia>53.908</MajorDia>

<PitchDia>53.4594</PitchDia>

<MinorDia>53.066</MinorDia>

</Thread>

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39 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

This is the M54 thread itself:

<ThreadDesignation>M54x0.75</ThreadDesignation>

<CTD>M54x0.75</CTD>

<Pitch>0.75</Pitch>


-<Thread>

<Gender>external</Gender>

<Class>6g</Class>

<MajorDia>53.908</MajorDia>

<PitchDia>53.4409</PitchDia>

<MinorDia>53.0475</MinorDia>

</Thread>


-<Thread>

<Gender>internal</Gender>

<Class>6H</Class>

<MajorDia>54.1201</MajorDia>

<PitchDia>53.5789</PitchDia>

<MinorDia>53.2831</MinorDia>

<TapDrill>53.25</TapDrill>

</Thread>


-<Thread>

<Gender>external</Gender>

<Class>4g6g</Class>

<MajorDia>53.908</MajorDia>

<PitchDia>53.4594</PitchDia>

<MinorDia>53.066</MinorDia>

</Thread>

 

Amazing thank you !!! 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
3 minutes ago, CedricTheBrave said:

I used this guide to create an adaptor with a M43 x 0.75 to connect a Morpheus to my DSLR T thread adaptor.

very pleased with the result

Thanks for the info

 

20210215_142634.jpg

Great job 👍🏼 You might find light gets through the adapter. If it does you could try a layer of aluminium foil around the outside to block light.  You could even print a bigger sleeve to slide it over the foil to keep it tidier looking. 

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57 minutes ago, CedricTheBrave said:

I used this guide to create an adaptor with a M43 x 0.75 to connect a Morpheus to my DSLR T thread adaptor.

very pleased with the result

Thanks for the info

 

20210215_142634.jpg

Cool! Have you tried the Morpheus yet? I 3D printed an adapter for a BST Starguider 25mm to use as an imaging projection eyepiece on my microscope. There is some (barrel) distortion but quite a flat field. I may try it, or get another, for eyepiece projection on my refractor :) Do post any images you get with your Morpheus :) (ps I usually print astro bits in black.

Louise 

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1 hour ago, Thalestris24 said:

Cool! Have you tried the Morpheus yet? I 3D printed an adapter for a BST Starguider 25mm to use as an imaging projection eyepiece on my microscope. There is some (barrel) distortion but quite a flat field. I may try it, or get another, for eyepiece projection on my refractor :) Do post any images you get with your Morpheus :) (ps I usually print astro bits in black.

Louise 

not tried it yet no

I do have some black CF PLA that i will try it on next as it should also be stronger but this one is already very strong I have tried to break it.

the white was used as a first go because its nice and prints well.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

This thread has made my day and it's only 7:47.

I wonder if I can get my Borg threads for a Crayford focusor worked out. Finding spares for the older Borgs is getting difficult and/or expensive.

I have a new Prusa to replace my Ender 3 and its such a nice printer, just works out the box whereas the Ender 3 always needs calibration and maintenance. I have used it a lot though.

I'll copy the files to Fusion 360 and see how it all goes.

Many thanks

Rob

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