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Walking on the Moon

Meade LX10 - drive problems

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Ok a small issue needing to be looked at.

I have now purchased some AstroZap bands (thanks Aunty Flo!)

But now another issue with my telescope is the drive appears not to be connecting with the main gears of my telescope.

That is to say, the drive works, but its not moving the telescope.

Has anyone come across this issue before?

Is it easily fixed?

Please advise

Many thanks in advance

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I had a similar problem..

Does the volume of the tracking motor get softer when the scope stops tracking? Cold weather seemed to be the culprit for me as well as other LX-10 owners. I had to take the scope apart (pics and directions online if you need them) and move the potentiometer to the front battery compartment for easy access.

The tracking slows down and eventually stops as the temp drops during a session, and unless the potentiometer is tweaked faster and faster, the scope stops tracking. The motor keeps going but the sound becomes very soft.

Also, in very cold weather I need to turn the tracking on when setting the scope out to cool or the tracking motor may not start at all. At first I thought it was the factory glue grease getting thick, but I replaced it all with snowmobile grease and the problem persisted until I moved the potentiometer.

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:crybaby: I posted the potentiometer pics in an MSN group but the group isn't there anymore. No problem, though. I'll take the base apart, get more for you, and post them here.. it's pretty easy. (...making mental note to burn pics onto a disc. :D )

If you want to regrease your scope (a lot more involved than moving the potentiometer), those pics are still safely archived in Yahoo's LX-10 group. You need to join in order to access them but that's easily done.

After joining, look in the left side-bar and click on the 'Files' link. In the Files folder, click on my (strgzr52) file entitled 'LX-10 dis-assembly photos' which contains the photos and my instruction text file (5th file from the bottom). The instructions were amended by the group's list-owner John, who helped in the proper identification of the parts.

Btw, here's a discussion regarding moving the potentiometer. Not too sure if it'll help, but it might be of interest.

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Ok, took some pics for you this morning. They don't show the potentiometer in it's original location but you can't miss it. It's on the board, and there are three little pegs sticking out of the bottom of it.. these are soldered to the board. Btw, be careful not to melt the plastic board when removing the potentiometer and attaching the wires.

#1: Access panel on bottom of scope base.

#2: Behind the access panel.

#3: Close-up of the (user supplied) copper wires which now connect the potentiometer to the board. Note how loose the electrical tape is. It was nice and tight when I moved the potentiometer but needs to be re-done. I took the pics as-is though, so you can see how easy it would be for the tape to loosen up enough to come off and possibly become entangled in the worm gear. A small thing like that can stop the tracking although the motor's still running.

#4: Battery access panel. I drilled a small hole in it so I could access the slot in the potentiometer (which is taped to the back of the panel). A small screwdriver is inserted into the hole to adjust the speed of the tracking during a session. This winter I plan to re-do this and put a dial-thing on the outside of the panel.

#5: Ugly set-up but hey, it doesn't have to be pretty.. it just has to work. :D See how small the potentiometer is?

#6: I already mentioned the electrical tape. LX-10 owners have had wire entanglement stop the tracking, so you also need to secure the wires together so they don't get close to the worm gear.

Well, that about does it. One last thing.. boards like SGL are great, but when you own a 'not too commonly used' scope like the LX-10, info can be pretty hard to come by. Use the Yahoo group.. it's a goldmine. Good luck and let us know how things turn out, ok?

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Thank you ever so,

Those pictures are amazing, i am sure i will be able to sort my meade out now.

I cant thank you enough, i will post again later tomorrow (once i sober up) to advise of the progress.

I will also add to the thread and make it available to all.

Thanks again.


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Hi all

i opened up the panel as described.

The motor does run, does does not engage i dont think. Its not like its clear cut either as the motor runs so slowly!

i notice the whole metal panel is held in by allen screws. so i MIGHT have a go at taking this off. Dont want to damage the setup though.

Have not done it yet since none of the Allen Keys i have appear to fit!

the drama continues

keep u informed!



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