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Clifff

AZEQ6 Main PCB Help Part Ident U9 and U10

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Hello,

Cliff from Sydney Australia here and a relative newcomer to Astronomy, spent more time fixing stuff than using it so far . 

Hope this is in the right section, apologies if it isn't just looking for any possible assistance,

Anyway I have had a major failure of my AZEQ6 and looks like at the very least U9 and U10 on the Main Board in the mount have failed, I suspect they are 5V and 3.3V regulator Ic's but not sure,   I attached images of the two Ic's. Looks like U10 is a Dll1VA 17-33 (3.3V?) on one and U9 is a Dll1lC 17-50 (5V?).  Can't find any reference on the net ?

though could be the same as the ones in the handset under different numbers ? In the Synscan they are U9 is a 1139C 17-50 (5V?) and U10 is a u5FV N05A (3.3V I think)

Many thanks for any assistance,

Cliff

 

azeq6 PCB - 1.jpeg

azeq6 PCB - 2.jpeg

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The IC in the bottom image definitely looks as though it has let go of the magic smoke! 😉

It's hard to track down surface mount ICs from the print on the package, but if you haven't tried already then you might have better luck searching for the schematic for the board rather than the part no. At best you'll get the part number, at worst you could find something that will perform the same task.

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15 hours ago, CrashEd said:

The IC in the bottom image definitely looks as though it has let go of the magic smoke! 😉

It's hard to track down surface mount ICs from the print on the package, but if you haven't tried already then you might have better luck searching for the schematic for the board rather than the part no. At best you'll get the part number, at worst you could find something that will perform the same task.

Yep the bottom one definitely has smoked and measuring the other it doesn't look good either. Looks like the 12V goes into the first guessing 5V and I think that feeds the second most likely 3.3V ? A Schematic would be nice.

PCB appears to have been worked on before too!

I've looked around for a schematic but so far nothing, Skywatcher won't give me one no surprise there.  Pretty sure they are 3.3V or 5V regulators , got my Handset working again today. Was a 3.3V regulator in that fried. 

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3 hours ago, Clifff said:

Yep the bottom one definitely has smoked and measuring the other it doesn't look good either. Looks like the 12V goes into the first guessing 5V and I think that feeds the second most likely 3.3V ? A Schematic would be nice.

PCB appears to have been worked on before too!

I've looked around for a schematic but so far nothing, Skywatcher won't give me one no surprise there.  Pretty sure they are 3.3V or 5V regulators , got my Handset working again today. Was a 3.3V regulator in that fried. 

The question is whether the 12V has done any damage further downstream of the regulators. Hopefully you've been lucky...

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Further damage is always a possibility, depends how quick the regulators broke down. 

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Yes, they are 5V and 3.3V 1A regulators.  They are the commonly used  AP1117 series of low dropout regulators. The ones you have are made by Diodes Incorporated. Here's the data sheet. Page 6 shows the markings corresponding to yours which are the SOT223-3L package version. Several manufactures make them. You don't need to use the DI manufactured ones.

It's worth checking electrolytics around the ICs for shorts and any possible inductors connected to their input terminals for showing signs of overheating. 

It's common for the 3.3V regulator to be fed from the 5V regulator output and for the 3.3V regulator to use 6.3V electrolytics. If the 5V regulator goes short in to out the 6.3V electrolytics will also fail and possibly also go short.

The NO5A marked regulator in the handset is a similar 3.3V regulator, the  LM1117 series made by Texas Instruments. The handset 17-50 will be a 5V regulator, not sure of the manufacturer.

Good luck. :smile:

Alan

Edited by symmetal

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Thanks Alan,

I wondered who the manufacturer of the regulators was didn't recognise the text on it. 

Bought a bunch of the 3.3V and 5V AMS1117 regulators the 3.3V fixed my handset. 

Also got some 10uf SMD tantalums coming soon. Seems most are 10uF in these ,Have one to replace a shorted one in the handset just using a standard one for now.

I did check the surrounding electros they seem ok not shorted. Don't see any inductors close by but will do further checking once I remove the faulty regulators.

Really appreciate your information and suggestions, with a little luck I might get the board working again. 

Cliff

 

 

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