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I was hesitant to write this earlier, but I wanted to try all possible ways to get my new SkyWatcher 250P GOTO allgined, but to no avail.
I have followed the instruction manuals of both the synscan and SW, and managed to get the message "alignment successful" multiple times on the handset or the app. The closest I got when I tried to dial a different star was a 20 to 25 degrees off on the azimth axis. Most times it's off by a margin on both axes.
I have tried aligning around 30 times on more than 5 diffrenet occasions, different locations as well. I end up ignoring the thing and switch to navigating manually as the eager friends want to observe instantly, but we ran out of objectes and the planets are not close anymore, so I figured it's time to get deeper DSO's and sort out the GOTO.
Here is what I do:
• I level the scope to the zero reading on top of the base
• I make sure the base is level with a spirit level I bought recently
• I point the scope northish, but latley I bought compass to pinpoint north
• I plug all equipments in and then switch on the power from a lead acid battery
• I enter the date ( US fromat, month before day 😕 )
• enter correct time zone obviously
• the coordinates in the format of E 000 00 , N 00 00
• As for elevation I use "my elevation" app, not sure if it's accurate. Does this entry have to be that accurate?
• I tried both brightest star and the 2 star align methods on the handset (which seems to be the same thing apart from the brightest method having an extra menu asking for which direction you are pointing at)
I even used the synscan app and the synscan pro, and tried the 3 star align method. The app uses location and enters all data automatically
•I use the top and right arrows as the last press before centring the star in the eyepiece as recommended by the manual
These are the steps I follow when I align , is there anythung I missed? Your kind help is much appreciated.
Update: issue solved, check the reply in the second page
Sooo...I'm getting quote frustrated here. This spring I tested my HEQ5 with guiding. The synscan controller was connected to the computer trough the USB plug on the hand controller. This worked like a charm in my living room. On the new controllers you dont need the rs cable. But when I tried the whole thing with guide cameara for some live shooting, it just did not work. I get something wrong with the com port in decice manager, driver not working. I have tried 3 different drivers. The whole thing responded, connected and was guiding when i did a dummy test before the summer. So setup is pc-synscan via usb for pulse guiding. Can it be a problem with windows 10? What t h.... just happened? Where can I find a driver that works? And believe me it worked 5 months ago, argh. Thanks for any respons and support
As title. Not the best to look at cosmetically but in good working order.
Mount has upgraded latitude bolts.
Will throw in the following:
Sky-Watcher power supply
HiteCastro DC focus controller
EQDIR cable to control mount from laptop
Long UK plug mains power cable
Lovely Lords Cricket bag
Based in Kent near Maidstone.
as the title suggests, I've noticed that the RA axis of my HEQ5 pro mount has some give. I don't notice it while the clutch is unlocked, but it's very obvious with a locked RA clutch. Any suggestions on what could be causing it/what adjustments need to be made?
I'm planning a bit of a change in my imaging setup and after much thought I need some input from others if you can.
I want to upgrade my setup, currently a SW 130pds HEQ5 with a 60mm guide scope imaging with a modded 500D.
I often find my imaging time limited but am planning the build of a mini obsy to make longer sessions more practical.
Would mounting a SW72 ed on top of the 130pds be over kill to get an dual imaging system going and increase the data volume, both with a canon 500d and a simple finder guider, the mount should be ok with this.
Or just keep the status quo and add an auto focuser for longer single scope sessions that can be more automated in keeping good focus with the lighter setup.
The dual version I believe would end up having wider field images as I would probably have to add the higher resolution from the longer FL to the shorter FL images.
Any 2p's worth would be appreciated I just want to achieve more productive sessions.