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Filter wheel questions


solarboy

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Not sure I understand what you mean if you are saying you have taken 20 darks and flats, as 20 is a good number.

So just to be sure there is no confusion, you only need to take one set of darks. 20 is a good enough number for flats so I would stick with that.

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It all depends on your target, a good starting place is Astrobin, look what could be a good target then go look there what other people have done, that will give you a starting point for exposure times and how many subs you need.  Not all targets are good for RGB but some are, look for what will fit on your chip with the scope, I spend nearly as much time planning on targets as getting the data, and no wjere near as much time as the subsequent stacking and tweaking.

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I presume you are going to use your clear filter in place of a luminance filter, I am not quite sure what a luminance filter filters out, but assuming the clear filter is OK, you should be taking most of the data with that and the longest subs with that because if will yield the detail.  the coloured filters generally are used for colour and don't need to be so long.

I use 600secs for Luminance and 300SEcs for RGB (or if I am binning I do 150secs RGB), but binning is another story.

If you have copious clear dark skies, do as many as you can of each.  I tend to do double the amount of luminance to RGB.

An image minimum total data should be around 3 hours, as if will be too noisy anything less than that.  Depends on how bright the target is and how dark the skies are you are imaging from.

Carole 

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If you have an electronic filterwheel then I would do the RGB in sequence (one after the other) and aim for as many as you can get done in an evening. 

However, if you have a manual filterwheel then is not practical - I would do about 10 subs on each at a time and then if you have more imaging time then go back and do another batch on each.  

The more you have the smoother will be the final image, but with English weather you can't rely on getting sufficient data all the time.  But if you have got some of each channel you can at least try to produce a finished image. 

HTH

Carole 

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OK, well this is what I do.  I set up a sequence (having checked I am in focus on each of my filters).  If focus is different with one of the filters then I have to image with that separately after refocussing.

Assuming all are the same focus I do:

Lum 600 Secs

Red 300secs

Green 300secs

Blue 300secs 

Lum 600secs (I usually do this twice in a sequence as I want to get more of this for the detail).

Then I ask the software to repeat this over and over again until I run out of time/clear skies.  

HTH

Carole 

 

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