DaveS's Obsy Build Thread

[Yawning Angel]

At this stage, you can easily add some bracing tape, if you want to avoid the diagonals : Have a search for "galvanised bracing tape". You nail it corner to corner, inside of outside the frame, then skin over it - and for once, it's cheap 🙂

[Gina]

I used timber bracing - corner to corner inside.  Didn't know about galvanised bracing tape.

[RAR_MI_USA]

On 17/03/2020 at 10:51, DaveS said:

ATM I'm hoping the cladding will hold it square, but I am also thinking about placing some diagonal pieces in the framing.

I notice a lot of people on this site incorporate the horizontal braces in their framework when building their OBS. I have never seen that done or done it myself, except in places for windows or door frames. Probably because we use more vertical studs, one every 16 inches and the caps (top studs) are always doubled up. Your construction looks sturdy enough to weather any wind at any rate. I would be more worried about having electronics installed without the walls or roof complete, because of the dampness in the air. I have replaced many radios inside my unheated garage over the years due to humidity and temperature fluctuations throughout the year. In my experience, anyway, it seems to destroy electronics.
Looking good. Keep up the good work.

Edited March 20, 2020 by RAR_MI_USA

[DaveS]

Just an update to say that progress is on hold for the duration, as I need the sparks to be available to wire up the 'lekky, and getting the 'scope on will be a two-man close-contact job unless I buy a winch.

[Alan White]

21 hours ago, DaveS said:

Just an update to say that progress is on hold for the duration, as I need the sparks to be available to wire up the 'lekky, and getting the 'scope on will be a two-man close-contact job unless I buy a winch.

Good call Dave.
We all need to take care at present.
Having an accident and needing medical attention now is a drain the NHS does just not need.
 

[RAR_MI_USA]

On 28/03/2020 at 14:57, DaveS said:

Just an update to say that progress is on hold for the duration, as I need the sparks to be available to wire up the 'lekky, and getting the 'scope on will be a two-man close-contact job unless I buy a winch.

Awww.....disappointing, but completely understandable. Look forward to seeing further progress when our upside down world rightens itself again.
Ray

[DaveS]

Been a long time since I did an update.

Since my last post I have framed the south wall, put up the roof rails and run a stop gap power feed

I've done a bit more work since then, adding the power to the 12v PSU and running a LED string around the top frame.

More photos to follow.

[DaveS]

I'll add, that while putting the first pair of posts wasn't too difficult, I could mark the position by dropping a plumb bob, getting the second pair in involved much cursing and berating myself for a cack handed nerk (Polite version of what I actually called myself). I'm not even 100% sure the support rails are truly square and level, I may need shims to level the roof rails.

The only reason for having them so long is so that I can run the roof off far enough not to affect my southern view. I could, perhaps otherwise have got away with single 4.8 metre rails, though getting them into the garden might have been a bit of a palaver.

I am now investigating ways in which I could mount the telescope on my own.

[DaveS]

And with the LEDs set to red. I think they may be a bit bright, but it turns out there is no dimming function. Wish the product description had been a bit more specific.

[fifeskies]

I use RGB LED in my ROR and it does operate with a dimming function but even then the low setting was a bit bright.

It all runs on 12v lines , I added in a diode and resistor in each colour line to drop the brightness after some basic test bench experiments to establish working values

 

Every installation will be unique and require a specific resistor value

You do need to work out the resistor value carefully and be wary of the heat dissipation in the resistor, make sure its within specification , but it works well.

 

I also made sure its all concealed LED tape behind wooden "L" covers so its only reflected light , even dim LED will give you afterimage spots.

[DaveS]

This is an outdoor rated LED rope that's USB powered with a remote control. The other LED strips I have are 12V powered and do have a dimming function, this one just caught me out.

[fifeskies]

Not much leeway on the USB type (5v) adding a diode might just reduce the voltage to the point the LED wont light evenly, or even not at all

Some electrosurgery to add an inline resistor may still work , but both interventions might upset the control chip.

 

Another option might be to break the rope into 2 sections with a switch midway.

You only need a single pole switch to break the power line out of the 4 wires.  (Power , R return , G return , and B return).

 

I have also seen some cheap Chinese inline USB dimmer on a certain auction site , but these wont be available at the moment.

 

Some baffles to block direct light is perhaps a more predictable solution.

Edited May 3, 2020 by fifeskies

[DaveS]

Since this is a semi-remote (Garden rather than Spain) automated imaging obsy I only expect to be using the lighting during commissioning / maintenance. There is also a white setting for work during the day with the roof closed.

[old_eyes]

11 hours ago, DaveS said:

This is an outdoor rated LED rope that's USB powered with a remote control. The other LED strips I have are 12V powered and do have a dimming function, this one just caught me out.

The type I use are non-dimmable, but I never have them on in the scope room when imaging, so not a problem. It also cuts down on the cursing and swearing as I trip over things!

[old_eyes]

15 hours ago, DaveS said:

Been a long time since I did an update.

Since my last post I have framed the south wall, put up the roof rails and run a stop gap power feed

I've done a bit more work since then, adding the power to the 12v PSU and running a LED string around the top frame.

More photos to follow.

It’s looking good and very solid. Depending on the type of rail/track you are using for the roof to follow, you will probably need adjustment anyway. Wood is rarely available flat and straight, and tends to move about with environmental changers and time.

On my build I used the gate track and wheels, and did not fasten the track down until I had got the roof rolling smoothly. It turned out the wooden bearers were not as accurately placed as I had hoped 😕

[DaveS]

38 minutes ago, old_eyes said:

It’s looking good and very solid. Depending on the type of rail/track you are using for the roof to follow, you will probably need adjustment anyway. Wood is rarely available flat and straight, and tends to move about with environmental changers and time.

On my build I used the gate track and wheels, and did not fasten the track down until I had got the roof rolling smoothly. It turned out the wooden bearers were not as accurately placed as I had hoped 😕

The track is from F C Brundle, like most of us in the end. My plan too is to build the roof frame and run it along the unfastened track until It's running smoothly, then screw it down. I need to be fairly accurate as the roof will be automated with rack and pinion activation.

[fifeskies]

F C Brundle track is top quality (I used it or my ROR)

Not had any problems with it.

 

Once you check its aligned and screw it down is very reliable.

Has very low running resistance , a very light push is all that is needed.

[old_eyes]

2 hours ago, DaveS said:

The track is from F C Brundle, like most of us in the end. My plan too is to build the roof frame and run it along the unfastened track until It's running smoothly, then screw it down. I need to be fairly accurate as the roof will be automated with rack and pinion activation.

Yes I used a rack and pinion gate opener as well. Hadn’t planned any automation in the beginning, so it was a bit more of a faff than necessary, but I got there in the end.

[RAR_MI_USA]

On 02/05/2020 at 17:45, DaveS said:

This is an outdoor rated LED rope that's USB powered with a remote control. The other LED strips I have are 12V powered and do have a dimming function, this one just caught me out.

I am glad to see you have been doing some more work on the observatory. Been checking in now and again. Was getting worried. Spring has sprung I see.

Ray

[DaveS]

A lot of the delay was my own fault. I had become so fixated on bringing the telescope in through the south wall before building it that I completely overlooked the possibility of bringing it through the door. D'oh!

Trying to find a supplier of cladding that will deliver. Wickes have it in stock, but only "Click and Collect", yeah, like I'm going to get 12 packs of 2.4m long cladding in my car  .

[Davey-T]

On 07/05/2020 at 17:53, DaveS said:

Wickes have it in stock, but only "Click and Collect", yeah, like I'm going to get 12 packs of 2.4m long cladding in my car

Went to Wickes today to get some paint and while queueing to get in watched two guys trying to get a fitted kitchen complete with worktops and sink into a Nissan Micra, didn't even have a roof rack  😂

Dave

[DaveS]

A small but significant update. The sparks came this morning and connected the 'lekky

[DaveS]

Oh, and managed to order a shed load (Geddit?) of T&G cladding from Wickes for delivery. Won't come till 10th June, but still it's a movement of sorts.

[DaveS]

Time for another quick update.

The telescope has been mounted after considerable huff-and-puff

And I have had some deliveries, finally got the breathable membrane and, after much wrestling with the Wickes website, the cladding. Had to get T&G instead of shiplap, at more cost. What a surprise. Not

Now I guess I have to get off my increasingly fat backside and do a bit more work.

[JamesF]

Excellent news, Dave :)

James