Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

What Astro CMOS/CCD Colour or Mono Camera to buy ?


Skyline

Recommended Posts

Hi

Coming from a Astro Modified DSLR camera, which I have had great success over a number of years. I have had numerous Mono CCD cameras mainly Atik, 16HR, 314L+, 383L+.

However having mono ccd cameras I always found trying to complete a full session of LRGB to be problematic due to environmental issues, one I am surrounded by neighbour's trees and also by the time I need to capture the next set of data, the object has fallen behind trees or the weather is not playing ball.

The reason I stuck out with a DSLR camera for so long is due to simplicity and it not needing to worry about collecting individual coloured data sets.

But one thing I would add is time teaches you patience, hence the kindled interest in still buying a CMOS\CCD camera.

I have no interests in doing narrowband imaging apart from imaging Ha.

I only tend to do astro imaging about once in 4 months or maybe twice if I am lucky. So in your replies give this consideration please. Hence why I am leaning more towards colour at the moment !

Also just to state I have also had Spinal Surgery, so I don't know how this would effect me in the long term when I am out on cold nights trying to collect LRGB data.

I know mono is more sensitive, but looking at how cameras with CMOS colour sensors have advanced from companies like ZWO and producing wonderful results from the pictures here on SGL, I am thinking about again moving from a DSLR to a dedicated astro camera.

1. Due to cooling

2. Taking pictures without needed to take breaks

3. Simplicity without filters if buying colour

I would be mainly using the camera on a Skywatcher ED72, sometimes on a 6" f5 Newtonian also on a rare occasion a 4" F9 Refractor if I can still handle it.

Ideally I don't really want buy a small chip, ideally something which matches somewhat like an APS-C size sensor but not sure what cameras would be ideal for my setup and again - Mono or Colour is the question ? 

Any advice is appreciated, thank  you.

 

 

 

Edited by Skyline
spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went for the one shot colour option, though I must confess I didn't find it easy but I am next to hopeless with IT. I feel the Mono option is something I will want to play with at a later date. I also went for cooled cameras, in the shape of Zwo 071 and 183mc pro. In real terms from what I understand going for mono here with the 1600pro and filters may have been cheaper as it's pixel size falls somewhere around the middle of these two cameras, so one camera may well have covered my range of scopes which are between 330mm and 1000mm.

I don't see Mono as beyond me but there is a lot to learn and trip you up after using a Canon fairly well for 2 years.

Alan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, alan potts said:

I went for the one shot colour option, though I must confess I didn't find it easy but I am next to hopeless with IT. I feel the Mono option is something I will want to play with at a later date. I also went for cooled cameras, in the shape of Zwo 071 and 183mc pro. In real terms from what I understand going for mono here with the 1600pro and filters may have been cheaper as it's pixel size falls somewhere around the middle of these two cameras, so one camera may well have covered my range of scopes which are between 330mm and 1000mm.

I don't see Mono as beyond me but there is a lot to learn and trip you up after using a Canon fairly well for 2 years.

Alan

Thanks for your input, the 1600 Pro is also a consideration similar to the Atik 383L+, I know the 383L+ is a good solid built camera and since I had one 5-6 years ago (my God time flies), I still regret selling it on. But the price has risen £500+ on a new camera, the reason why the 1600 Pro makes a good contender. Don't know about QC and support from ZWO. It would be nice to hear from someone who has had both types of cameras.

The only thing I don't like about the ZWO cameras is thing of amp glow, sensor cover reflections and gain settings as on the Atik cameras I had in the past I can remember I never needed to set these parameters as these are set automatically without faffing around.

Nadeem.

Edited by Skyline
grammer
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Skyline said:

Thanks for your input, the 1600 Pro is also a consideration similar to the Atik 383L+, I know the 383L+ is a good solid built camera and since I had one 5-6 years ago (my God time flies), I still regret selling it on. But the price has risen £500+ on a new camera, the reason why the 1600 Pro makes a good contender. Don't know about QC and support from ZWO. It would be nice to hear from someone who has had both types of cameras.

The only thing I don't like about the ZWO cameras is thing of amp glow, sensor cover reflections and gain settings as on the Atik cameras I had in the past I can remember I never needed to set these parameters as these are set automatically without faffing around.

Nadeem.

You just need a set of darks for the amp glow, I have never used anything other than 60seconds for LRGB at gain 76 and 300seconds for Ha, OIII at gain 139. Hence I need two sets of darks for all my imaging.

reflections of thr ASI1600mm pro are its only real problem.

I normally say go mono, but if your only getting in 8 or so imaging sessions per year then I think i would actually just go with a OSC sensor at that point as imaging is clearly something your dabbling in as opposed to being your main hobby.

Getting an OSC like the Atik Horizon OSC or the ASI294mc pro or the QHY168c along with one of the new duel channel narrow band filters will give you a result in a single night every single time without needing LRGB Ha OIII SII filters flats for each and potentially focusing for each dependent on your scope.

My only concern is that your in London......do you know what your sky brightness is? If its outer london they you may get away with a duel-band filter, certainly not tri-band or quad-band. If your really into the light pollution though it is mono with separate filters or nothing.

Also anyone who is willing to take images over multiple nights should always be going mono. But if you want to image once a month and you want a image in one night every time OSC really is the way to go especially with the weather we get in the UK.

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Adam,

Thanks for your feedback, imaging I considered as a main hobby a few years ago, but as life went on I don't get the time much to image these days.

The ASI294MC Pro is a consideration due to it having a sensitive Sony chip, rather then a Panasonic chip which the Atik has. Also as you say combining the camera with a Duel Narrowband filter, sounds like the key.

I take it I can do away my IDAS using this combo ?

Are the Panasonic chips any good ?

I am currently using a IDAS LPS V4 with my DSLR, which I have used for around 5 years now, with good effect, I don't know my sky brightness, even though I live on the outskirts in N.London.

Nadeem.
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Skyline said:

Hi Adam,

Thanks for your feedback, imaging I considered as a main hobby a few years ago, but as life went on I don't get the time much to image these days.

The ASI294MC Pro is a consideration due to it having a sensitive Sony chip, rather then a Panasonic chip which the Atik has. Also as you say combining the camera with a Duel Narrowband filter, sounds like the key.

I take it I can do away my IDAS using this combo ?

Are the Panasonic chips any good ?

I am currently using a IDAS LPS V4 with my DSLR, which I have used for around 5 years now, with good effect, I don't know my sky brightness, even though I live on the outskirts in N.London.

Nadeem.
 

 

The Panasonic chip is still a good OSC its not as fast as the IMX294 but it calibrates better and so when it comes to very faint signal it will show a better background when imaging galaxies in optimal low light pollution conditions in comparison to the IMX294 which has some very very faint residual background artifacts after calibration. However, this is less of a consideration with nebula imaging when the IMX294 will be the best choice.  Its worth keeping the IDAS for galaxies etc if its working for you already, but I would 100% pair the new camera up with a duel narrow band filter to make the best from your LP conditions with an OSC (Duel narrow band is for emission nebula only not for galaxies). If I was close to London though I would focus my effort on emission nebula as opposed to struggling with galaxies.

Adam

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My interest is mainly emission nebulas and star clusters, apart from a few galaxies i would like to image but thats it really. M63, M81, M101 NGC891, just a few to mention. 

Its all down to budget now and when to buy.

Some food for thought.

Nadeem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
On 30/09/2019 at 13:45, Skyline said:

My interest is mainly emission nebulas and star clusters, apart from a few galaxies i would like to image but thats it really. M63, M81, M101 NGC891, just a few to mention. 

Its all down to budget now and when to buy.

Some food for thought.

Nadeem.

Have a read up on the Optolong L-enhance duo band filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.