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I am hoping someone might be able to help with a possible way to shoot dark and bias frames on a DSLR (canon 700D) without the need to cover the scope or camera, ideally using APT scripts
My thinking is that the camera, has a noise reduction mode where it will take the light shot, then with the shutter closed it will take a dark frame and subtract it from the light. So could you take a series of dark frames on ATP and lock the shutter down?
If anyone knows I would love to know. Would be great to automate the lights, park the scope and have it run darks and bias, without the need to go out to it and cap up at 3.-4 in the morn
New to forum help needed. I have had this problem a couple of times now over the last few weeks. I hope someone can help.
I am seeing a black band at the bottom of some of my imaged. They are all 10min light frames. At first I thought it was my filter wheel out of position but it seems to be on every other image. I used the same setup the night before with no issues.
I'm using a Explorer scienific Apochromatic 102. ZWO Optical ASI 120mm-S (CMOS). ZWO Electronic Filter Wheel 1.25inch with R,G,B filters and ASIAIR
Any ideas would be helpfull.
I have a telescope -SkyWatcher Explorer-130P SupaTrak Newtonian Reflector auto Telescope and it has a heavy duty tracking device ( pic attached). I have had this scope for a few years and did pretty much basic with this and never understood how to use this device. I have the time now to spend with the scope during this social distancing time and I am totally unaware of how to efficiently use the tracking. I know how to move up, down, left and right. I don't think it has wifi and it looks very basic ...please can someone explain how to set this up. Pleaseeeeee can someone help .......I have searched everywhere but I can't find any material on this.
Also , If i buy SynScan ( with wifi ) will it work with my scope? Thanks in advance xx
Because of the current situation, I have, as many of you guys probably have too, spend a lot more time under the stars when possible.
It has literally been over a year since last I was out doing some astrophotography because of work.
So here is my second take after the long break, NGC 3344 (The Sliced Onion Galaxy).
Initially I thought it would be a lot fainter than it was, so it was basically a shot in the dark, of just trying to get back at doing this.
But the final image actually showed a lot more detail than I would've hoped for!
Spring lent a lot of clear night, but those seems to be gone already. I would've hoped for a few more hours to add some more luminance data to it, as I did have to push it quite a bit.
I am not too happy with the shape of the stars either. Guiding was not very stable through the night, even though balance and polar alignment seemed to be good. Might need to update my Celestron PEC data?
Any advice or feedback is very welcome! 🤩
NGC 3344 (Sliced Onion Galaxy)
Luminance - 13x16 min
RGB - 2x16 min each
Flat and Dark calibrated
Total Integration - 5 Hours 4 minutes (LRGB)
Celestron AVX Mount
ZWO ASI 183MM-Pro
Baader 2'' Neodymium Filter
Baader 1,25'' RGB Filters
ZWO Mini EFW
Explore Scientific Coma Corrector
ToupTek Camera G-1200-KMB Mono Guider
Orion Mini 50mm Guidescope
Deep Sky Stacker
By Matt Hayden
What with all this locking down business and home schooling my ten year old son, I have dusted off my TAL-1 and created a slightly less than ideal setup in his room. The westward facing window has been providing great views of the moon and venus over the past week. Obviously doing this indoors is not great (the floor is pretty solid, as is the TAL stand!) but it does mean we get to use the scope every evening, rather than going through the process of carrying the whole rig outside every day.
I have a T-mount converter for my old-ish Pentax k-M DSLR, but have quite disappointing results with the camera, when compared to the observed image using the eye. The eyeball view is nothing less than banging - crystal clear detail with a 25mm eyepiece, strong contrast - it's spectacular. I add the camera with an eyepiece inside a tube, and can't replicate the same result, or anything like it. It's OK, but not good enough.
I've cleaned the eyepiece today and collimated the scope. The primary mirror looks fine other than a couple of tiny dust particles, no scratches or weirdness on the coating. The camera is working pretty well as far as I can tell. Apart from a little clumsy-ness with the adjustments, the clarity in the eyepiece suggests it's all working fairly well. Photo attached of best result from last night.
My question is: is this a focusing issue or some sort of aberration? Should I expect focusing to be difficult in the camera eyepiece? What's going on?! Does anyone have any other tips I can try to get this working better?