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KevS

Anybody Playing Tonight?

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Just been looking at my other ZWO EFW - the EFW mini which is the same design but smaller than the EFW on my rig.  Two possibilities for light leak - the USB socket and a small gap round the motor.

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If darks have to be taken at night, I have had a thought for remote light blocking - a metal blank filter in the EFW.  That should reduce the light getting in well below that for lights as long as the rig isn't pointing at the moon.  Anyone tried this?

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5 minutes ago, Gina said:

If darks have to be taken at night, I have had a thought for remote light blocking - a metal blank filter in the EFW.  That should reduce the light getting in well below that for lights as long as the rig isn't pointing at the moon.  Anyone tried this?

One of my filter wheels actually came with such a blank.  I don't use it though, as I don't have space in the wheels after all my other filters are added.  I think it's a poor design of filter wheel that lets light in from anywhere other than the intended direction.

James

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Best way to take darks is to take the camera off. I had a metal M42 cap I used to put on the ASI1600MM to shoot darks. With my DSLR I put the Canon body cap on and put the camera into my homemade peltier coolbox for darks.

Yes, it's a pain to remove them and mess up image train orientation and the risk of dust getting back in, but you know your darks will be right!

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2 hours ago, carastro said:

"Peek" version looks great, don;t forget to do some short subs for M42 core when you do the next session.

Carole 

Thanks Carole. I like a bright centre in M42 but this is too bright. It'll be a first for me but I'm going to give it a go and try and blend some shorter stacks in there. I've seen people mention it and they tend to take a few versions, 10s, 20s, 30s etc. Do I need much integration for the shorter versions? I take it most of the image is masked off and the blend should be concentrated on the core region only?

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5 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

Best way to take darks is to take the camera off. I had a metal M42 cap I used to put on the ASI1600MM to shoot darks. With my DSLR I put the Canon body cap on and put the camera into my homemade peltier coolbox for darks.

Yes, it's a pain to remove them and mess up image train orientation and the risk of dust getting back in, but you know your darks will be right!

In my case that would mean dismantling the rig as the camera is mounted and takes the weight of EFW and lens.  Much easier just to take darks at night if I can't stop light getting in (which I'm pretty sure of doing).

Edited by Gina
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I'm hopeful of doing some imaging tonight and depending on which forecast is right, possibly tomorrow night.  Then there is cloud or even rain for the foreseeable future, plenty of time to take darks.

1500305501_Screenshotfrom2020-01-2012-15-22.png.c86c01749a2237eb00110ce74196b564.png

MO for tonight.
1153663212_Screenshotfrom2020-01-2012-16-16.thumb.png.d032b33c534a0fb321658b8034249f33.png

MO for tomorrow night.
871263721_Screenshotfrom2020-01-2012-17-05.png.7c05e731a8d15acb775ea1cb58b177ee.png

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Whether I manage to fix the light leak, I think I shall make up and fit a blank filter.  Then if I'm imaging and cloud comes in I can finish the night with darks without having to go out to the observatory in the night.

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44 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

Thanks Carole. I like a bright centre in M42 but this is too bright. It'll be a first for me but I'm going to give it a go and try and blend some shorter stacks in there. I've seen people mention it and they tend to take a few versions, 10s, 20s, 30s etc. Do I need much integration for the shorter versions? I take it most of the image is masked off and the blend should be concentrated on the core region only?

It depends on your sky conditions really and the ISO you use, best to experiment.. I can shoot 300 second subs of M42 with the core completely fine and detailed from my back garden (bortle 5) and ISO 200 on my Canon 80D.

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CO is saying clear but then that's what it said last night and the clouds on Sat24 look pretty reminiscent of last nights heading south this way.

Dave

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Thanks Carole. I like a bright centre in M42 but this is too bright. It'll be a first for me but I'm going to give it a go and try and blend some shorter stacks in there. I've seen people mention it and they tend to take a few versions, 10s, 20s, 30s etc. Do I need much integration for the shorter versions? I take it most of the image is masked off and the blend should be concentrated on the core region only?

I found 30secs worked for me. 

I could not find the old on-line tutorial I used to use and could not use the new one published as my version of Photoshop does not have the filters mentioned, so I used several iterations of selective layering and stretching, but it wasn't easy.

I have since then, E mailed the author Jerry Lodriguss and he has given me the link to the original tutorial which I am delighted about:

http://www.astropix.com/html/j_digit/laymask.html

Carole 

Edited by carastro
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I'm planning on having another go at M42 as such but that may not be this season as we are running out of time when Orion will be visible form this location.  I will need to get telescopes working with my new setup.  Since I last used scopes I have moved from Windows software to Linux with more compact systems.  The processing has changed too from Photoshop to PixInsight because the computer I had Photoshop on failed.  The new capture system has proved much more reliable and easy to use.  PixInsight being dedicated astro processing software seems a lot more powerful than Photoshop.

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 PixInsight being dedicated astro processing software seems a lot more powerful than Photoshop.

Well done you Gina.  I have seen 3 demonstrations of Pixinsight and came away each time not having a clue what was going on, I don't think it is intuitive.  I can do all I want with photoshop, so have never attempted Pixinsight, which seems to me like just a load of  tools you have to learn which to use for what.  

Carole 

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This is the 2 hour stack od HII from last night. There's a horrid blob appeared on the sensor from I don't know where. I'll have to open up and give it a clean. May have to dig out the spare desiccant tablets if I can remember where I put them.

1768334256_First2HourHstack.thumb.jpg.2ddfe62a33e6ee407bae9c05e27e2f6a.jpg

This was Sigma Add stacking, then DDP and de-noise, as the data's a bit thin. I can probably crop the blob off the finished image.

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1 hour ago, carastro said:

Well done you Gina.  I have seen 3 demonstrations of Pixinsight and came away each time not having a clue what was going on, I don't think it is intuitive.  I can do all I want with photoshop, so have never attempted Pixinsight, which seems to me like just a load of  tools you have to learn which to use for what.  

Carole 

Thanks Carole. 

PixInsight certainly isn't intuitive and does have a very steep learning curve but so did Photoshop.  PixInsight speaks quite a different language from what I understand!!  There are lots of online tutorials but I bought a book which I use whenever I use PI.  There are lots of settings but with the right settings it does seem to work very well (as long as you get the data right!).  There are scripts which you can use to automate the process but I prefer using the individual routines as recommended for more experienced users as that can get better results.  The other point is that PI does everything - stacking, calibrating, aligning and then whatever post processing you want.  OTOH I do find that GIMP is easier to use for stretching with Levels, cropping and scaling ATM.  I'm still learning PI though.

Edited by Gina

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44 minutes ago, DaveS said:

This is the 2 hour stack od HII from last night. There's a horrid blob appeared on the sensor from I don't know where. I'll have to open up and give it a clean. May have to dig out the spare desiccant tablets if I can remember where I put them.

1768334256_First2HourHstack.thumb.jpg.2ddfe62a33e6ee407bae9c05e27e2f6a.jpg

This was Sigma Add stacking, then DDP and de-noise, as the data's a bit thin. I can probably crop the blob off the finished image.

Looks promising, I had a dabble at this last night but it didn't respond too well to narrowband. Only did 90 mins Ha, and 30 each Oiii and Sii (500 sec subs) which turned out very ... naff.

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I'm looking into setting up the Esprit 80ED Pro with ASI1600MM-Cool, ZWO EFW, OAG, and Esprit with supplied M48 - T2 adapter.  With this setup distance from adapter to camera body is 42mm. 

From FLO data :-

Quote

The spacing for dedicated CCD imaging cameras is 55mm from mating surface when using supplied M48 spacer.  Spacing from flattener mating surface without supplied spacer is 61mm (flattener has M62 thread). 

ASI1600

421662270_Screenshotfrom2020-01-2015-38-24.png.83d1d11b43c820860dc4623fe194bf57.png

My setup (as currently sitting on living room table) giver 42mm to camera casing so adding 6.5mm gives 48.5mm.  Want 55mm so need a spacer of 6.5mm.  Must have a rummage in my astro drawer...

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OK, I took the lid off my ASI1600 and cleaned the sensor cover, plus I swapped the Oxygen filter for a Baader Luminance. Now I just have to hope for a clear night, and decide whether to grab 3 hours RGB first, then 2 hours L, or the other way round.

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The shortest extension ring I seem to have is 10mm.  Must have a look out it the warm room.

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No joy with extension rings but I have found another OAG which is slimmer giving adapter to camera case distance of 38.5mm.  Adding 6.5mm gives 45mm and we want 55mm so a 10mm extension ring is just right!  Yippee!  Don't know why but I've got no less than 4 OAG rings.  Maybe I was trying different ones in the hope of getting one to fit...  Anyway, I'll add a 10mm extension ring and measure again.  I should get 55-6.5 = 48.5mm.  I have a 10mm extension ring on my WF rig ATM.

Edited by Gina

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CO is predicting slightly better conditions for tonight but the green for tomorrow night has turned to all red!!

624528870_Screenshotfrom2020-01-2016-57-02.png.25349c4eba3ba84fafc1773b25b20df3.png

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It's clear here and the camera already cooled down as I shot some new darks this afternoon. Hopefully I can get the remainder of the lum data for my IC342 image, then who knows if it remains clear I'll get back onto M82 for some more LRGB....🤞

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Just been out to close up the chicken houses and the sky does look very nice.  Venus is obviously very bright to the south west, but I could see (I think) Rigel and Orion's belt stars through the trees to the south east.

James

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Clouds here, not covering the whole sky.  Some quite thick and some thin.  There's thin cloud blocking Orion - I can just see it but it isn't very bright and varies as I watch.

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