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The weather has been so bad I have had the time to finish a video on using astro filters with the Nikon Z bodies and Nikon camera lenses. There is a manual alternative to the FTZ allowing 1.25 inch filters to be fitted between camera and F-mount lenses, and for some lenses and end of lens solution make sense. FAstroTZ is described here:
By Anne S
Following a filter size upgrade I have an Astronomik LRGB set of filters, 1 1/4 inch. Probably around 12 years old. Kept in a filterwheel when in use but they have also been stored for a couple of years in their original box when I acquired some Baader ones to match my Baader narrowband filters. No scratches or coating issues. I have tried to show this in the images attached.
Looking for £80 posted given their age.
I joined the forum to learn more about risks and success of filter removal for UV and IR photography.
Back in 2011, one of the group's members, was trying to do just that:
Unfortunately Stephen hasn't been active in the group since 2014, but the filter removal appears to have gone well (at least the S3 wasn't killed in the process).
I have the same exact camera and I'm looking forward to try the same exact procedure. Does anyone has any tips on how to do this successfully/safely?
This is maybe my 3rd attempt at a galaxy and I am trying to figure out the best way of doing it since I live in a red zone of London suburbs.
I took this over 2 nights (well, 1.5 really, as my guiding wasn't working and plate solver wouldn't comply after meridian flip...) with my 8" EdgeHD SCT with 0.7x reducer and Atik 490X. Around 20 Luminance subs at 10 mins each (1x1) and around 15 RGB subs at 5 mins each, but binned 2x2. I use Astrodon filters but also have an LP filter permanently in my image train.
Question: should I only use RGB and create a synthetic L channel, given LP, or continue trying with the actual luminance? Gradients are horrible with luminance but RGB doesn't have as much detail (only red filter seems to be more sensitive).
My stars are all over the place (colours pop out everywhere, in the wrong way), how can I control this better?
Also, as I wrote, the red filter seems to have much more detail than the rest and when I add all the channels into PS, the red colour just overpowers everything (and in general, how can I keep the star colours as they are and not have the red and blue go crazy - I am not sure the name for it, but it looks like chromatic aberration on steroids).
Any other general tips would be great...
Thank in advance. GFA
PS: I cheated with the core: just changed the temperature to make it look a bit more glowy; for some reason, I barely had any yellow colour from the data...I will post stacked images, if of interest.
Both little used, 'as new' condition, selling due to change of camera.
Price incl. shipment: Ha: £99; CLS: £49
These are compatible with Canon 5D / 6D, etc, here are the links for details on these filters: