Solar imaging kit

[Thalestris24]

Anyone had experience of the Daystar 60mm kit? https://www.firstlightoptics.com/daystar-solar-h-alpha-telescopes/daystar-solar-scout-ss60-ds-60mm-h-alpha-solar-telescope.html Pros? Cons? It seems quite affordable compared to other options. But can't find many actual imaging examples on Astrobin so wondering if it's actually not that popular for some reason?

Thanks for any advice

Louise

[Merlin66]

I think the issue is that it's a fixed 60mm aperture Ha solar scope.

The "Quark" module is built in and not removable (to allow it to be used in other larger telescopes)

 

[Thalestris24]

2 minutes ago, Merlin66 said:

I think the issue is that it's a fixed 60mm aperture Ha solar scope.

The "Quark" module is built in and not removable (to allow it to be used in other larger telescopes)

 

Yeah, I saw that but was wondering how it performed as a dedicated solar imaging scope in practice.

Thanks

Louise

[Peter Drew]

9 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

Yeah, I saw that but was wondering how it performed as a dedicated solar imaging scope in practice.

Thanks

Louise

A number of us are wondering the same. Very few reports so far, maybe unsurprising considering the current lack of solar activity.   😀

[johninderby]

New scope and seemingly constant clouds since it’s been released has been the problem. Finaly got mine set up the way I wanted and ready to try some imaging and the SolarQuest mount stopped working. Returned to FLO and turned out to be just a loose plug inside. Due back this aft.

There’s a reason I put that name on the scope. 😁

[Thalestris24]

23 minutes ago, Peter Drew said:

A number of us are wondering the same. Very few reports so far, maybe unsurprising considering the current lack of solar activity.   😀

I know - why I haven't bothered with white light. But should be able to see proms, as well as chromosphere, with the Daystar 60? At the back of my mind I'm thinking the costs of pretty much all astro equipment could soon skyrocket in these volatile times.. In addition, I reckon I've a better chance of seeing the sun (from Glasgow) than any other stars! No imaging done since mid-May I've forgotten how to .

Louise 

[Thalestris24]

9 minutes ago, johninderby said:

New scope and seemingly constant clouds since it’s been released has been the problem. Finaly got mine set up the way I wanted and ready to try some imaging and the SolarQuest mount stopped working. Returned to FLO and turned out to be just a loose plug inside. Due back this aft.

There’s a reason I put that name on the scope. 😁

 

The label didn't go unnoticed! Hope you get some return on your investment soon!

Louise

[johninderby]

The weather has been diabolical since the scope arrived. Cloudy if I’m at home and the sun only comes out when I’m not at home. Hopefully the motorised focuser will help a lot. 🤞🏻

[Thalestris24]

Just now, johninderby said:

The weather has been diabolical since the scope arrived. Cloudy if I’m at home and the sun only comes out when I’m not at home. Hopefully the motorised focuser will help a lot. 🤞🏻

I have several of those dc motor focusers lying around 😄

[johninderby]

Not hard to motorise the focuser. Tricky bit was working out exacty what pulley and belts were needed. Access to a 3D printer helps as well.

 

Edited August 3, 2019 by johninderby

[Thalestris24]

8 minutes ago, johninderby said:

Not hard to motorise the focuser. Tricky bit was working out exacty what pulley and belts were needed. Access to a 3D printer helps as well.

 

Presumably, though, once focussed, only tiny refocussing movements needed?

[johninderby]

Yes shouldn’t need much movement to focus. I’ll be using the Hitec V2 DC Focus unit to control it. BTW Hitec is about to release a proper 64 bit driver which will make things easier for those using 64 bit capture software.

Edited August 3, 2019 by johninderby

[Thalestris24]

13 minutes ago, johninderby said:

Yes shouldn’t need much movement to focus. I’ll be using the Hitec V2 DC Focus unit to control it. BTW Hitec is about to release a proper 64 bit driver which will make things easier for those using 64 bit capture software.

When I was using mine I wrote a bit of software to step control a MotorBee DC driver board via usb. It wasn't Ascom but did the job!

[Nigella Bryant]

I motorised my focuser on my lunt 60 even though there's no official focuser model. So much easier for imaging. 

[Thalestris24]

I wonder how the Daystar compares to the Lunt? The former is a lot cheaper...

Louise

[johninderby]

Having owned a Lunt 60 I think the Lunt is better for visual but the Daystar is more imaging oriented. 

[xtreemchaos]

great focuser modds but guys why do you need one ?  is it because you can that I can understand 😀 our hands have been in production for eons and you could not get any better . charl.

[johninderby]

Scope outside and laptop inside out of the sun. 🙂

[Nigella Bryant]

Yes, because we can, lol but seriously, scope in sunlight and laptop in doors, taking observations, more accurate when focusing during imaging and no wobble. 

[xtreemchaos]

Arhh im with you now, and it do look good and proper, I know there good for DS just wondered about solar. I do everything from indoors so im not judging just wondering.  charl.

[johninderby]

Yes laptop screens and bright sunlight don’t go togeter very well. ☀️

[Rusted]

The Mk1 human digits are an abomination above 200x when you have 4 meters of focal length grilling on yer laptop!

Those little DC motors are excellent for fine honing yer focus. Sadly the control paddles are unworthy of further mention.

RIP after a couple of hours.  <sniff>

[xtreemchaos]

you have seen the mag I shoot at, my fingers are MK1a 😀 good for F60+. but I do like the option of motorized so I could when needed put my kit outside for like eclipses and work from obsyroom safe from the light. 

[Merlin66]

Rusted,

Why belt drive the 1:1 knob and not the 10:1 knob?

The 10:1 gives ever better focus control. I have this set up on all my scopes.....and no issues with the handcontrollers.

My SM60/ED80 sits on an HEQ5 outside, extended cables for the Synscan and focus motor then allow me to image in the cool and dark office.

 

[Rusted]

1 hour ago, Merlin66 said:

Rusted,

Why belt drive the 1:1 knob and not the 10:1 knob?

The 10:1 gives ever better focus control. I have this set up on all my scopes.....and no issues with the hand controllers.

My SM60/ED80 sits on an HEQ5 outside, extended cables for the Synscan and focus motor then allow me to image in the cool and dark office.

 

I tried the 10:1 slow-mo knob but even at maximum motor speed on 12V the focuser movement was glacial. Even now it takes 18 seconds per cm of travel flat out.
Sitting in my observatory is necessary because I must constantly correct the AWR/ASCOM Gotos manually. It also avoids OTA collisions with the pier.
Besides, I regular view as well as image. Constantly swapping the camera and EPs. between three OTAs means I have to be present anyway.

One useful thing I discovered is that a timing belt will slip smoothly on the FT focuser knobs given enough effort on the opposite knob.
This is important when I need a rapid four inches of drawtube travel after fitting/removing the Barlow, diagonal, prism, camera or binoviewer.

I'm using a 14T pulley now because the 20T couldn't manage a vertical lift of the 3.5" focuser tube, 2" Lacerta solar prism and camera.
It's all very manual and I really like that. While I could use the spacious ground floor as a warm room it make no real sense for me to do so.

Sitting on the north side of the pier in a 10'/3m diameter dome my body heat probably rises straight up and out of the top of the open observation slit.