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I continue to get my Star Adventure to perform better.
One very big problem if you have a camera that you can not tilt the display at, no tiltable display. I have the Canon 6D. It's almost impossible to see the display and do settings when the camera aim upwards to the zenith. I have until now used a very tall tripod, but that is something very big and not so friendly when travel.
Instead of buying a new camera I now test to use an app in my smart phone and used that to see the display in live view from the camera.
I have written a tutorial in an early stage of how I do that:
I will correct and add more information when I get more experience from this.
I'm sure most of you alreday have done this, my concern is, how hot will the camera be. I have bad experience from this from earlier test with live view.
Allsky camera and weather station is very important parts of the modern observatory.
Here I wanna describe project that I build for my observatory.
I started a new topic because I believe that this project is unique and I hope this description may be useful because project is open source/open hardware.
This device contains two cameras, one is for beautiful daytime shots (over the horizon) and second for useful night shots. Also there is a lot of sensors: clouds, ir, light, temperature and humidity.
Heart of the device is Raspberry PI 2 microcomputer.
Everything is built in waterproof electrical box which can be found in hardware stores.
Yep this exterior is not very nice looking due to silicone sealant. But nice looking is not most important part, especially when mounting device somewhere on a roof
Acrylic dome is from CCTV camera.
Inside the box I glued a thermal insulation and copper foil which acts like a EMI shield. This foil is connected to the building grounding circuits.
All devices inside the box:
- Raspberry PI 2
- internal temperature/humidity sensor
- powering system (+3.3, +5, +12 volts)
- ethernet lightning protection
- tsl2561 ir/luminosity sensor
- mlx90614 cloud sensor
- cooling system
- rtc with a back-up baterry
External temperature/humidity sensor is mounted in separate aluminium can.
Cameras module is mounted on the bronze pcb stands and will be described below.
Raspberry PI runs all device software except database and long-time storage of the images.
Camera can be accessed through simple web interface which running on nginx server.
All data collecting and generation software is wrote on C, Python and Bash.
All processes is starting by the CRON.
Database is working on the remote server with reliable storage system and can be accessed through network. I'm using Mysql in this project.
I found that this solution is more reliable and convenient rather than local storage on the SD card.
All images are postprocessed by the software. Dark frames is extracted (only for night camera) and generated some text information on the bottom of the image.
By steve astromag
I am sure I am missing a trick here but thought I would ask here anyway. I have the QHY5-II MONO and a meteor lens to use as a kind of allsky cam. However, I want to mount the CCD to a mount in the garden but do not want to collect the data with a laptop. Is there anything I can use to collect the data but a little mre mobile than a laptop?
Last year I developed an 'all sky' imaging application to run my Starlight Xpress Oculus camera (for Oculus owners you can find out more here: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/allskeye/info). I have recently added 'experimental' ASCOM support for it but don't have any other cameras to really test in on. If anyone is looking for this kind of software and would be happy to carry out some beta testing please let me know. Please bear in mind:
The software is really designed for traditional astronomical cameras using longer exposure lengths i.e. not video astronomy and am not sure how well it will work with faster CMOS cameras The software is mono only, no colour images can be processed (although it might be possible to use a colour camera to produce mono images - something I would like to test) It has been running for a while so is reasonably stable but please bear in mind that this will be a beta test so do expect problems! :-) Oh and sorry but it will only work on Windows computers from Vista onwards (no XP) Thanks,
OK, so its been raining horrifically here for what seems like months, but really only a couple of months. Very unusual for here.
An Idle Mind is the Devils Workshop. I grabbed onto TekkyDaves focuser and that went very well indeed after a little help from Dave. I had a working remote controllable focuser added to my telescope. Joy!
Another friend mentioned to me how he was looking into Mini Computers as a means to go wireless to his pier outside. I took the lead and ran with it. I'm a Windows 10 user, and have used Windows as my operating system all along. Other OS's I've tried didn't quite work out for me. But there is absolutely no reason that Linux, or Apple users couldn't do this as well. And/or a Raspberry Pi
So I acquired one of these little Intel Mini Stick Computers and set to work to make my mount wireless. Or in my case wires less. Or Less wires. If you will Please excuse my laziness, I'd like to paste from another of my posts...
"EAA - Electronically Assisted Astronomy. My rainy dayz project.
The direction I headed when getting into this maddening sport. Often I said, "All I want is the Hubble."
Plain and Simple, can't.
But I'm a function sort of guy. I like taking a pigs ear, and trying to make a silk purse from it. Getting the most I can from whatever it is I'm doing.
A mutual friend of ours mentioned a new method to me. I took the ball and ran with it. Especially once the CFO here told me to go ahead.
I've finally arrived at being ready for the weather to give us a damned break so we can go back out and shoot some stars.
Electronically controlled focusing and Stick Computers. My next natural steps towards mount independence. Or going wireless, or in my case wires less. Because after all, things need power. So I do have 2 - 12 volt circuits from my big battery, and a 5 volt, 3 amp circuit feeding up the mount. But the Stick Computer running Windows 10 is alive and wirelessly in control perched up on top of my telescope tube Velcro mounted. (It's not just for shoes anymore. )
The focuser is an Arduino project where an electronic programmable logic controller (USB2), controls a motor driver circuit board and a small geared stepper motor to adjust the focuser in or out to adjust my telescopes focuser. In a nutshell... The Focuser Project came from here.
The stick computer is essentially a Mini, fully functioning, Windows 10 OS computer. Its intention is to plug into an HDMI port in a big screen TV display, and turn it into a functioning Windows 10 computer, and to (once set-up) Bluetooth connect to a wireless keyboard and touch pad or mouse. (It requires a USB keyboard (wired) for initial start-up. $10 at Walmart)
But we are in dark waters here and following paths of those who have ventured before us.
The Stick has WiFi, Bluetooth, and two USB ports. I went low buck, but there are pricier versions and more power and RAM memory available. I've also put one of my mini SD cards (64Gb) in my stick and programmed it to store everything there. (It can use up to a 128Gb mini SD card.) (My point there was to keep the Sticks hard drive light and unburdened)
With a hub (I used a powered hub) connected to the USB2 port (works for my 2.4 MHz router), it connects through a WiFi extender to my router. And that let's me log into it with Tight Vnc giving me the Sticks desktop and full function wirelessly of the Stick computer.
It has a noticeable lag in function, but it works. And I'm in day 4 of long run testing of function (12 to 16 hours a day). I have my typical programs open and working as much as they can without actually guiding and imaging objects. But my cameras are running and imaging capped scopes, the mount, Stellarium, and PHD2 are running, and all appears well.
I had my USB3 hub plugged into the Stick's USB3 port at first. But a guy recommended I connect via the USB2 port and that cured all my problems. USB3 works better over the new C type connections and 5 MHz WiFi. Which this church mouse doesn't have. I have a 2.4 MHz G type wireless router. (Hot item in its day)
Set-up, or tear down consists of 4 plugs (Cables) to free the telescope of the mount, or to mount it. (12 V, 5 V, 1 USB, and 1 RJ-11) Hense, why I say Wire Less. Or Less wires.
The 1 USB (white), and RJ-11 (Guider) simply jump down to the AVX. So only the 12V (2 wires) and 5V (1 wire) actually exit the mount.
Some folks are doing a portable router for remote locations set up. Sitting in their warm car, running their mount outside, wirelessly. (I don't see me doing that, I like being home.)
So... this to get rid of what? USB cables for one. And to free up my laptop and dragging it out and back every night. But there is a caveat here, I can connect my desktop, and I can connect my laptop, and recently discovered I can even connect my phone... all at the same time. And any of the 3 can be used to run the equipment wirelessly through my (antiquated) wireless network. (Password protected, of course)
Something that held me back was, to go wireless at the mount would eliminate the visual the laptop afforded. Now, a laptop can log on to my network, connect through Vnc, and there is the mounts computers desktop.
Folks are sitting in their recliners in their living rooms, and running their mounts wirelessly. It sounded appealing to me.
Fine adjusting the focus, and doing anything I used to sitting out in my yard I will be able to do now (except filter wheel changes, and the manual adjustments of an All Star Polar Alignment) from my wireless devices. I've already been doing wireless alignments, just for fun and to experiment.
OK, so no pictures = didn't happen. The hardware:
(The out-of-place looking white USB cable is connected to the NexStar handset of my AVX. It has to do with Celestron's NexRemote, which replicates the hand control onto the computers display)"