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Hi, i have made a video where i show a coople of eyepieces that i use and like, and also show how a barlow works, compared to the "Powermate" from Televue. And how is the FOV affected when changing the magnification with different eyepieces?
Feel free to comment and give me feedback - I hope you like the video!
I’m looking for a skywatcher Skymax 127 + az gti mount. It can be a bundle or separated.
Hampshire/Surrey area or willing to post.
I picked up a Celestron Omni last year quite cheaply and had originally been using that with stock eyepieces, which was fine.
Since then I've bought a couple of BST Starguiders and a Hyperflex zoom, and I'm now wondering if I'd notice any difference with a better barlow (this is now being used on an F/5 150mm Newtonian). Otherwise, the pennies can be directed elsewhere.
I'd not considered it before as the next rung up seemed to be around the £90-£100 mark, which seemed out of line with the rest of the spend. But I've seen some positive reviews of 3-element models in the region of £35-£40.
In particular, I've read good things about the Revelation/GSO Astro 2.5x (though apparently closer to 2.2x) and the Baader Classic Q 2.25x.
- does anyone have experience with both of these, and have a preference?
- would I notice any significant difference with either, compared with the Omni?
- I read somewhere that the Baader in particular required focussing the tube into the OTA to an extent that caused some image degradation. Obviously I'd want to avoid this if true, so is this a feature of the Baader, or of both, or of all (shorter?) barlows? (to be honest, I'd not thought to see whether this was happening with the Omni, I'll try to remember to check, if this weather ever breaks).
Thanks in advance.
For various reasons, I find a correctly orientated image, (vertically & horizontally) as given by an Amici prism in a diagonal, much easier for me to use with my observing.
I absolutely loved the Baader Amici prism with the ClickLock. The build quality is lovely and it gave really great views - except when you try and use it on an object brighter than about magnitude 1.5, whereupon you see the infamous diffraction spike ruining your view.
I know this is a fairly common issue with prisms and with Baader Amici prisms in particular but I have also heard of people trying several and then finding one without the diffraction spike issue. Mine was bought from a reputable online only astronomy supplier on the USA west coast who assured me they tested the prism prior to my purchase but they obvioulsy did not. They did give me a refund in the end. I would really love to try and obtain another Baader prism but without the diffraction problem.
My question is, have you done the process of trying several prisms before getting a good one? Who did you use? (please feel free to PM me) Did you end going directly to Baader? I would do that ordinarily but I now live in the USA, not Europe. Have you another non Baader correct orientation prism that you could recommend to me ? (Although I have to say once you use a Baader diagonal with a ClickLock there really is no going back to the fiddly adjustment screws!!!)
Thanks for any advice, sharing of experiences or recommendations.
I have been searching for a new visual back for my 180 SkyMax Mak-Cass, especially with micro-focusing ability. My 180 Mak has a standard 2" SC thread on the back so the obvious choice would be a Crayford style aftermarket focuser with 1:10 micro-focusing. However I did not like the idea to add about 750 g of focusing equipment to my telescope when my heaviest "payload" is 522g, thats visual with a 1.25" diagonal, an ADC and the Hyerflex zoom EP.
So I was thinking a bit and came up with the following setup, both for visual as well as planetary photography. Here is the shopping list:
2" SC to T2 rotatable adapter (there is a Baader one, I went for the TS TSSC-T2S adapter) 2x T2 - Baader 1.25" focusing EP holder (T-2 part #08A or #2458125) a 40 mm T2 extension or an ADC with T2 treads (I have both) a micro-focusing diagonal (I converted my TS 1.25" diagonal with one of the two Baader #08A EP holders and this TS ZS1D-T2 adapter) Now first some images of the 1.25" diagonal conversion:
off goes the standard EP holder and mount the T2 adapter:
and on goes the Baader #08A EP focusing holders
well that was straightforward, but it's nice to focus the EP directly on the diagonal.
Onward with the new configuration. I removed the standard visual back and the 2" to 1.25" adapter I used to use:
and mounted the SC to T2, the 40mm T2 extension and the Baader #08A EP holder. This setup is about 100g lighter than the original VB. It places a camera at FL = 2477 mm and one can directly micro-focus the camera.
Another setup is with an ADC:
where this setup is about 70g lighter than the original VB and places the camera at FL = 2400 mm. Again micro-focusing is achieved with the Baader #08A EP holder.
Now when it comes to observing planets, an ADC is quite crucial in the next few years to come so I mounted it as seen above. You can level the ADC with the SC to T2 adapter, which is rotatable, but you can also easily lock it in place by tightening the outer ring with the grooves. Add the now focusing diagonal and your favourite EP and:
You are ready to observe at an FL = 2730 mm (almost stock FL). The advantage is that you can easily rotate the diagonal with the first Baader #08A EP holder (before the diagonal in the light path) and then focus your EP with the second Baader #08A at the diagonal. 😀
I like this setup, both because it is very lightweight and also versatile. Downside is that you can not add a motor focuser, which I don't mind. I will test this setup extensively now during October (Mars!!) and report back on how it performs when using it out at night.
Let me know what you think about the setup. Hope its useful to anyone.