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I've had a reflector telescope for years but never really used it (this one) . I've recently dusted it off and decided to try my hand at astrophotography.
I was really pleased with myself when I successfully pointed the telescope at Saturn and could make out the planet and rings (it looked like one big white ring but a good start). Once I'd nailed getting the planet in view I decided to hook up my Canon EOS 600D.
Initially I connected it using THIS and was able to get a picture of a Saturn and ring shaped slightly blurry blob, which I have to zoom in on the image to see, thus blurring it further. For my first attempt I was pretty pleased. I then watched some YouTube videos of people showing how it's done and upgraded the Canon T-ring to THIS so I could drop a lens into it for more zoom.
However, when I try the new adapter with a lens the camera picks nothing up - any picture I take regardless of how long exposure I use just comes out as a black screen - not even any stars.
If I take then lens out of the adapter I get the same. I only get a picture if I use the original T-ring, back to the blurry really small blob.
Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong? I'd really like to get into astrophotography but not getting anywhere yet.
Many thanks in advance.
Can anyone help? I'm pretty much a novice at this astronomy stuff but loving the steep learning curve. I started by using camera lenses modified to use an eyepiece but after much debate, deliberation and saving up, I have finally bought my first proper telescope. Unfortunately I now have a problem.
Last year I bought a second hand Synscan EQ5 mount which has worked perfectly each time I have used it. I used it about a month ago for the first time with the new scope (last time we had a clear sky). Everything worked as it should. At 2 am I parked the scope, dismantled everything and put it away. Nothing was dropped, snagged or got wet.
The forecast said we might get a clear sky last night. Anticipating this I got the mount on the bench, stripped, cleaned, polished and greased the DEC axis plain bearings (hoping this might help with guiding). When finished I connected the motor controller and handset and switched on. I was greeted with the following messages: INITIALISING then CAUTION BOTH AXES NO RESPONSE. If I press enter and carry on through the menus, then everything appears to be as it should except no motors run. I have tried everything I can think of and would be very grateful of advise or suggestions. These are things I have tried, so far:
Different power supply. I have been using a motorbike battery which is giving 13.5V constantly when I switch on. I have tried two other batteries with a 2A charger connected.
Continuity tested the cables from the plugs that go onto the motherboard of the controller all the way to the motors.
I made up the RJ45 and RJ12 diagnostic cables suggested in the manual and the handset appears to be ok.
Removed the motors from the mount to make sure that they turn freely.
Replaced the RJ45 cable from the handset to the controller.
Examined the motherboard for dry joints and damaged components.
Assembled everything in the tripod to make sure that the earthing tab on the controller made no difference.
I now feel that the problem is the controller motherboard but logic tells me that it was the mount I disassembled, so the fault should lie there. Is there anyone who has had the same problem or who has the same system that could help me diagnose the problem. I'm in North Shropshire but happy to travel to anyone who could help. Unfortunately I don't know anyone with the same mount.
I am wanting (not really 😪) to sell my Stellarvue SV105-3SV with tube rings [not shown in pictures]. The telescope is in great condition with very little dust and no scratches. There is one very small ding in the dew shield paint but it is not dented and it is almost not even noticeable. It happened when I took the telescope out of the saddle and it lightly hit the saddle. The telescope has never been dropped or had any issues and is optically perfect with a strehl of .95 or higher (claimed by Stellarvue).
I've only used this telescope for imaging however I've once or twice thrown an eyepiece in it during a star party or two and it's VERY crisp with no false color.
Currently I live in Italy so that's where it can be picked up or shipped from. Price is negotiable however Stellarvue says it is worth around $1200-$1500 USD. The nice thing is you wouldn't have any VAT from Stellarvue . Please let me know if you have any questions, comments or are interested.
Lastly, here is a link to some images that I've taken with it and what it looks like mounted up: https://www.astrobin.com/users/chriscorkill/
Aperture: 105mm Apochromatic Precision Triplet Focuser: 3" Dual Speed Focuser with 2" and 1.25" eye piece adapters F Ratio: f/7 Focal Length: 735mm Color Correction: Excellent Minimum Tube Length: 16" in travel mode Tube Diameter: ~ 4-1/8" (105mm) Dew Shield Diameter: ~ 5-3/8" (137mm) OTA Weight: ~12lbs (5.4kg) Retractable Dewshield: Yes
Further to my post about the Skywatcher flexible 130 p, I am now looking at a short focus tefractor. I am 70 years old so can only manage to carry a fairly lightweight telescope into my back garden.
I am interested in viewing the moon, double stars, bright planets and the brighter star clusters.
I am looking to purchase one of the following
Celestron travel scope 70
Bresse r Classic 70/350
Skywatcher mercury 705 70mms.
I understand that these telescopes have limitations, but they the only ones in my price range.
Any comments or advice would be welcome.
lets imagine I wasn't to see a nice DSO about 15' size and I think it should look good nicely framed with a 1 deg field of view in the EP..
Which would give the better (or higher probability of seeing anything at all ) view from a semi urban light polluted home site (e.g Bortle 6)?
a) an 100mm f/6 refractor (fl 600mm) and a 10mm EP (60 deg afov, gain 60x = fov pf 1 deg)
(and exit pupil of 100mm / 60 = 1.6mm)
b) a 200mm SCT with focal reducer to give f/6 (fl 1200mm) and a 20mm EP (60 deg afov, gain 60x = fov of 1 deg)
(and exit pupil of 200 / 60 = 3.3mm)
My gut feeling is that the SCT should give a better view just based upon its 2xaperture - but Im not sure I understand fully the maths why.
Is the larger exit pupil going to result in a better / brighter / more successful view?
Or will the view be 'roughly' the same ?
Or have I got it all wrong.....