Obsy build for the summer...

[fwm891]

Been away for a week so everything stalled but progress made today with the track supports enabling me to take the roof back to almost it's full travel. Still to fit some stop blocks so left it short by about 200 mm.

Few views of the basic structure as it stands today. Insulation, linings and a floor still to fit. Continue today firming up the track rails. The fence side I've made so it remains in situ only the  garden side is removed after each session or as required.

Photo 4 below shows the roof and tree tops from approx scope/mount position.

[MarsG76]

Nice work.. looks nice and tidy.

 

[fwm891]

Door made today. I've used a pair of deeper bodied hinges so the door will fully open and lay back onto the end panel of the obsy. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/double-phosphor-bronze-washered-hinge-100x100x4mm-polished-brass-pair-734140

Need to sort out a lock and some internal hardware to secure the obs both closed and open.

Photo to follow...

[Alan White]

Looking even more finished each posting Francis,
Not looking better as it's been fantastic from the get go.
How I wish my Wood Butchery could be to even 25% of your skill level!
 

[fwm891]

Insulation going in today, cladding as well if time permits.

[Gina]

I didn't insulate my scope room (only the warm room which you're not having).

[fwm891]

3 hours ago, Gina said:

I didn't insulate my scope room (only the warm room which you're not having).

Doing it to even out temperature changes. Especially the roof as the edpm will absorb a lot of heat and the foil laminations on the insulation should reflect some straight back out.

 

[Gina]

Might do.

[Rusted]

32 minutes ago, fwm891 said:

Doing it to even out temperature changes. Especially the roof as the edpm will absorb a lot of heat and the foil laminations on the insulation should reflect some straight back out.

 

Remember that foil needs an air gap on its 'hot' side to be thermally reflective. Please report back on how effective it is in practice.
The externally painted, 4mm, birch plywood of my dome reaches 55C/130F on the bare insides of the panels perpendicular to the sun.
Falling to 115F lower down and still 95-100F even on the shaded side. So I'm looking for a way to reduce solar gain.
By fixing something internally on the southern [sunny] side, rather than changing the dome's appearance externally with white paint. 
I doubt that traditional matt black paint on the inside will do anything worthwhile as a "black body" radiator. Except to warm the insides further.
So-called "insulating" internal paints have been proven to be almost worthless. Leading to a savage fine to a household name down in Oz.
Resulting in the company dropping their premium priced [so-called] "insulating" paint products.

[Davey-T]

1 hour ago, Rusted said:

So I'm looking for a way to reduce solar gain.

You need some of those Space Shuttle tiles, give NASA a call I bet they've got loads they don't need in a warehouse somewhere 

Dave

[fwm891]

Few photos of the start of installing the insulation and internal lining.

I nearly got the shiplap to match across the door with the side panels. Also a shot of the door folded fully back against the end wall giving me full door opening access.

The final image shows the tracks. The nearest is removeable being held in position with the temporary metal pin. When the pin is removed the track slides outwards and can be stored inside the obsy. The rear track I decided to fix as it is against the fence and doesn't interfere with other areas. I've added a brace to maintain the track direction and stability. The near track has some flexibility when the roof opens/closes with the 'Vee' wheels engaged on the track.

[fwm891]

EPDM relaxing

[Bukko]

Lovely job... Impressed with the care and attention on the shiplap too.

For me, what made all the diffrence in the world was getting the roofing finished on my warm room...

It was like a real big milestone reached.

Good luck with the interior.

Gordon.

[fwm891]

Trim added and surplus EPDM removed. Couple of small bubbles but at least it's waterproof now. Waiting on an electrician to fit an external socket on the house as a supply to the obsy. Work out just where I need storage for the link laptop, spare cables. As most of my sky is towards the south I'll fit the power supplies to the north side so the hot air from them won't pass in front of the scope. Fit LED strip lights for white and red output options. Oh yes - the 10" dob is to live in the obsy as I've been asked (read told) that now the obsy is built it doesn't need to be in the conservatory alomg with the Edge HD and...

The dog's a bit of a Sun worshiper and often seen in this position 

Edited July 15, 2019 by fwm891
text added

[JamesF]

Looking very good :)

James

[Gina]

Nice job

[Rusted]

Excellent workmanship! Very impressive construction skills. 

One thing though: Train the dog to lie somewhere else. Its thermals will ruin the seeing!

[6footgeek]

Looking fantastic! Do you fancy nipping over to Solihull and building one again in my back garden?

[fwm891]

4 hours ago, Rusted said:

Excellent workmanship! Very impressive construction skills. 

One thing though: Train the dog to lie somewhere else. Its thermals will ruin the seeing!

Warm air currents a speciality - clear any room pronto 🤫

[Swoop1]

Is that a Mk1 Attack Tortoise creeping up innthe background?

[JamesF]

19 minutes ago, Swoop1 said:

Is that a Mk1 Attack Tortoise creeping up innthe background?

You sure it's not the Mk2 with the titanium shell and VTOL?

James

[fwm891]

6 hours ago, JamesF said:

You sure it's not the Mk2 with the titanium shell and VTOL?

James

At just over 100 yrs old she's a little slow for any big offensive but likes to terrorise the dog when she lays down anywhere in the garden 

[Jkulin]

5 hours ago, fwm891 said:

At just over 100 yrs old she's a little slow for any big offensive but likes to terrorise the dog when she lays down anywhere in the garden 

Blimey Francis 100 years old, is it a Herman? Our tortoise is 19-20 years old and each year the vet says to be prepared for it to live to 70-80 years, yep and ours chases our dogs around as well.

[mckinnell]

Francis, I know that you are using your tri/pier, but, i have the large heavy mount that comes with the 300PDS and NEQ6 PRO set up, you can see it on Rother Valleys site, and am wondering that if when i pour my 8 ft Sq slab, and, as it is going off, i placed the tripod ends which have distinct point to the ends, into said concrete, after setting up, removing the tripod would leave three distinct impressions that, hard set as they would now be, i am thinking this would hold very fast the tripod thus rendering the need for me to spend out on a pier, the cost of which i find so expensive, and as to making a pier, if this method seems ok, would enable me to not have to build, hope this makes some scence, your comments would be gratefully received.

 

                                                                                                                        Regards and thanks,              Tom...

[fwm891]

On ‎16‎/‎07‎/‎2019 at 22:26, mckinnell said:

Francis, I know that you are using your tri/pier, but, i have the large heavy mount that comes with the 300PDS and NEQ6 PRO set up, you can see it on Rother Valleys site, and am wondering that if when i pour my 8 ft Sq slab, and, as it is going off, i placed the tripod ends which have distinct point to the ends, into said concrete, after setting up, removing the tripod would leave three distinct impressions that, hard set as they would now be, i am thinking this would hold very fast the tripod thus rendering the need for me to spend out on a pier, the cost of which i find so expensive, and as to making a pier, if this method seems ok, would enable me to not have to build, hope this makes some scence, your comments would be gratefully received.

 

                                                                                                                        Regards and thanks,              Tom...

Hi Tom - Sorry late reply. You can do that but better would be to leave you slab and then once you know where your tripod is going, mark where the feet/spikes sit on the slab and drill small holes at these points. Your holes will be more precise. If you position your tripod with a 'north' leg and you don't change the height/spread of the legs you can drop the tripod into the same holes each time you move and re-set for another session. That's what I did with a 2" steel tripod before investing in a tri-pier.

This weekend has seen the moisture/water barrier lining installed, floor joists in their hangers and start made on the T&G flooring. I've also fitted some heavy duty hasp and staples (3) to lock the roof in it's closed position. To that end I'll simply put a carabiner through the staple. When away or if heavy weather is forecast I'll put padlocks there instead. Should also keep the roof on 🙂

I cast 3 concrete blocks with indents for the tri-pier feet to sit in. The blocks are 200 x 150mm (8x6 inches) at the base and 150x150mm (6x6 inches) at the top. The indents are 65mm diameter and 12 mm deep (2½x½ inch). I consulted the UK geological site to get an accurate magnetic variation for Hereford and set the block positions with the tri-pier in position, a reasonable compass and rubber mallet...

Finish the floor tomorrow (run out of screws) then varnish the floor while I wait for the mount to be returned or replaced.

Edited July 21, 2019 by fwm891
text added