Stellarium Image sensor frame
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By DrummerSP
Hi!
Firstly apologies if this is in the wrong section (this is my first post on any kind of forum!) and I'm aware its a question thats probably been asked thousands of times. Please let me know if I should post elsewhere or anything...
So I've made some progress with astrophotography but as much as I try I get so confused with lenses and the specifics so thought I'd ask people who understand them more. My setup so far is a Canon EOS 550d, with a 70-300mm f4-5.6 lens all on a Star Adventurer pro tracker (recently upgraded from an Omegon LX3 mini track). The camera and lens were both second hand and passed down to me so I dont really know how old they are now but I've been getting good results so far (uploaded one of my recent images, still using the minitrack for reference)
Basically I dont know if I'm better off upgrading the camera and sticking with the telephoto lens (from what I can find its a good lens), or would changing to a small telescope be better. If I was to, from what I've found the Sharpstar 61EDPH II would be a good choice?
I've researched a lot and just dont understand the technical side enough to know where I'm better off putting my money. My budget would be around £1000, maybe slightly more for a camera as I do use it for other photography too. Any advice would be very appreciated, sorry for the long post!
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By endless-sky
I would like to share my fourth image.
With my "lucky week" of imaging, along with M33, I managed to finish also this project. This is my longest integration to date.
These are IC 405 and IC 410, also known as the Flaming Star Nebula and the Tadpole Nebula, respectively, taken over 7 nights, under my Bortle 5/6 home sky.
Total integration time: 18h 29m 00s.
Here are the acquisition details:
Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro
Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series
Camera: D5300 astromodified
Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x
Guide-scope: Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4
Guide-camera: ZWO ASI 224MC
2020/11/18: Number of subs/Exposure time: 41@240s + 1@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2020/11/21: Number of subs/Exposure time: 48@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 46% illuminated
2020/11/24: Number of subs/Exposure time: 48@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 75% illuminated
2020/12/07: Number of subs/Exposure time: 15@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2020/12/13: Number of subs/Exposure time: 22@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2021/01/10: Number of subs/Exposure time: 37@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2021/01/11: Number of subs/Exposure time: 18@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
Total exposure time: 66540s = 18h 29m 00s.
Pre and post-processing: PixInsight 1.8.8-7.
This image was particularly hard to process, since there are many bright stars and stretching the nebulosity while taming the stars was quite difficult. I am sure I didn't manage it as well as I would have liked.
Here's a link to the full resolution image: Flaming Star Nebula (IC 405) and Tadpole Nebula (IC 410)
Thanks for looking!
C&C welcome!
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By endless-sky
I would like to share my third image.
I finally had a "lucky week", since my last session, December 18th. I managed 5 clear nights out of the past 6 (has to be a record, at least for me and my area) and I was able to finish a couple of projects I had started long ago and start a few new ones.
This is M33, also known as the Triangulum Galaxy, taken over 10 nights, under my Bortle 5/6 home sky.
Total integration time: 10h 14m 00s.
Here are the acquisition details:
Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro
Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series
Camera: D5300 astromodified
Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x
Guide-scope: Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4
Guide-camera: ZWO ASI 224MC
2020/11/08: Number of subs/Exposure time: 11@240s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2020/11/09: Number of subs/Exposure time: 10@240s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2020/11/20: Number of subs/Exposure time: 15@240s + 4@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 30% illuminated
2020/11/21: Number of subs/Exposure time: 22@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 45% illuminated
2020/11/24: Number of subs/Exposure time: 20@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 75% illuminated
2020/12/13: Number of subs/Exposure time: 12@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2020/12/14: Number of subs/Exposure time: 8@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2020/12/18: Number of subs/Exposure time: 6@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 20% illuminated
2021/01/10: Number of subs/Exposure time: 9@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
2021/01/11: Number of subs/Exposure time: 15@300s. Notes: L-Pro filter, no Moon
Total exposure time: 36840s = 10h 14m 00s.
Pre and post-processing: PixInsight 1.8.8-7.
Image was Drizzle Integrated and then cropped to original sensor size (6016x4016), without resampling. So, it appears as if taken ad double the focal length (768mm instead of 384mm). Image scale 1.04 arc-sec/pixel.
Here's a link to the full resolution image: Triangulum Galaxy (M33)
Thanks for looking!
C&C welcome!
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By pete_81
Hi all, just getting straight to the point.
Just got a Rasp Pi 400 (equivalent to Pi4-4GB), and looking to get into guiding through this as it's obviously a popular (and successful) technique.
Plan is to have the RPi as mini computer at home, running it with RaspPiOS (supplied on µSD with the full kit), then use it with a SECOND micro SD card for astro - I figure having another SD to run Astroberry (as on SGL) may ignore any issues with the family using the pi for other stuff in the house, giving a stand-alone 'computer' as the OS and files would be available on different SD's.
From this point, I'd setup as follows:
Connect the RPi directly via USB to the mount (it's the newer SW-AZ-EQ6Pro with the USB-B port on the mount)
Guidescope (240mm f/4) with T7C (equivalent to ZWO Mini) again USB-B direct to RPi
Nikon DSLR (either on telescope or using camera lenses) connected to RPi via Nikon USB (using the 3 USB points on the RPi-400) to control capture and later using this for plate-solving (but that's not for just right now!)
I don't spy any flaws in the plan, it's just going to be a matter of testing and setting things up hoping to follow the guide for Astroberry as linked to SGL below...
Or is there an alternative OS? From brief reading, Astroberry includes KStars & PHD2 which is what I've got for use on the macbook (although not used in earnest as it doesn't appear to like the cold too much!)
What about guiding software - I know KStars comes with it's own, and can run PHD2 from within, with PHD2 being the industry standard (and simplest?) to use?
Control will then be sitting in the warm via OS-X, which seems to be again a common technique as I've had posts on my other questions about this!
Thoughts???
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By cwinstone
Hello, does anyone know if my imaging train looks correct, and if it does, why am i still getting these coma errors?
Could it be incorrect backfocus? Searching the internet makes me think my dslr is 44mm, adding the t ring (even tried a 1mm spacer too) gets me to the required 55mm (assuming that's correct)
I have no idea how to solve this and i feel like I'm just throwing money down the drain fighting this in vien. Help would be much appreciated.
Skywacher Evostar 72ed
Reducer rotator for 72ed (needs this for extra distance to achieve focus, the reducer and adapter alone doesn't allow for enough outwards travel)
Reducer/corrector for ed72
Canon eos 650d
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