AR152 988mm F/6.5 + Quark vs AR102 F/10 + PST Mod2?

[Davey-T]

5 minutes ago, astrorg said:

I do not really know if it is worth risking buying a second hand Quark, but there is one thing to think that I guess most people that sell it and have used it, must have had all problems sorted [in theory].

I think it's probably better to buy a second hand one if you can see some images taken with it.

Dave

[astrorg]

20 hours ago, Davey-T said:

I think it's probably better to buy a second hand one if you can see some images taken with it.

Dave

I agree

[astrorg]

What do you know.

I ended up buying a second hand PST [blue filters] - should arrive within a week!

I wish to play with it first and get the hang of Solar first - test my cameras etc. or/and eventually get an old Mono CCD for Solar Lunar, also do White Light with Baader filter, etc.
I prefer the slow approach - that cost less or in instalments.
Then possibly mod or go straight to Quark Chromosphere.

 

[Peter Drew]

Best plan so far.  ?

[Stu]

On 06/02/2019 at 10:49, astrorg said:

AR152 F/6.5

I see you mentioning this scope a lot Mauro, but I would recommend the one which @Davey-T has which is the 152 f5.9 which has excellent correction for a reasonably fast 6” scope. I think it is better than the f6.5.

[astrorg]

On 23/09/2021 at 18:10, Stu said:

I see you mentioning this scope a lot Mauro, but I would recommend the one which @Davey-T has which is the 152 f5.9 which has excellent correction for a reasonably fast 6” scope. I think it is better than the f6.5.

Hi, I never saw your post - sorry.
As mentioned I am in and out Astronomy, mostly to do with my precarious site = home!

At the time I already had the AR152 988 - i.e. F6.5 ... That is why I was asking about it.
I am thinking to keep my AR152 F6.5 and use it eventually with a Chromosphere... or something else.

Problem always is if I can trust to have only a Baader filter on it, as @Davey-T does with his better F5.9
I mean, I am no expert on this, but I guess if it is fine with his F5.9, it should be better with my F6.5 in terms of Sun intensity, right?

But regarding the DIY AR90/900. I usually used a QHY 174M mini with it and it seems great.

How do I get the full disk?
I see I would need a reduction of about 0.8-0.75x, but... my setup still uses the PST 1.25" nosepiece and therefore I am forced to use a 1.25" reducer.

Is there a decent and not too expensive one?

I cannot afford to get a B1200 - maybe I will, before the Chromosphere. I do not even know where to lean on.
Meaning which BF to get 1800 1200 600 whichever is around - I can only possibly afford one and must be the most useful with my AR90/900 or just do bother - save money and get Chromosphere to use with AR152 F6.5 and maybe my small 72ED F5.8 or the cheap ST80 F5 I still have 😂😂
Also with the Chromosphere may be a challenge getting full disk as well?
I am confused with the 4.2x that it uses !

Sorry, my questions keep being of a newbie, as I am on and off and keep forgetting things! Pff
When you are in it constantly for months, you get the whole lot back in mind.

I feel like a 2 years old asking questions!

mmm
 

Edited April 9, 2023 by astrorg

[astrorg]

I do have a 1.25" 0.5x maybe using right spacers and make it a 0.75?

 

... I think I got my own answer here!
https://agenaastro.com/gso-1-25-0-5x-focal-reducer.html

Mine is in practice that, not a TS but!

Simply connecting to 174M directly may give me just about 0.7x.

... and the answer is: blooming try it you idiot!

If I get the Sun available, when I am available.

Edited April 9, 2023 by astrorg

[astrorg]

Me again!
It is good to keep this thread developing for all to read.

In the non-distant future I may get the Quark - which one, will depend on what I will do and money too.
At present I play once in a while with my DIY solar-scope.

Regarding the Baader H-alpha 35nm CCD Filter 2", they are discontinued and they have added this in its place:
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/h-alpha-bandpass-filter-20nm.html

But, I noticed it is 2mm and not 3mm thick as the 35nm, it is 20nm and not 35nm (narrower) and the new one has a Reflex coating - I guess to reduce reflections.
I am now wondering if it will make any difference to use it in conjunction with the older 35nm.

Although I am more worried about its 2mm losing 'heat' strength!

Any idea?