Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_terminator_challenge.thumb.jpg.b7f10f594317507d0f40662231b0d9a8.jpg

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone! 

Im having issues regarding dew during colder nights while imaging. I’m aware of how to solve the issue of dew forming on front elements of scopes/lenses using dew heaters, however I’m also concerned with the dew that forms on my non-weatherproof DSLR body and imaging laptop. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to combat this? 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the laptop it's quite easy: just take some light and flexible plastic sheet, cut it to fit the shape of your laptop in open configuration, ensuring that you also cover the vent holes, leaving some space for the hot air to circulate inside the cover. 

This will keep the pc covered and somewhat hotter than the external temp, and should also prevent dew formation outside the plastic cover. I'm assuming here you're working in cold climate, otherwise heat should be better left out for the sake of your CPU! 

For the DSLR, i never looked for a solution: in different occasione, i got My Canon 600d both drenched in dew and completely frozen on the outside, yet fortunately had no issues. You could cover it too (freezer bags, maybe?)  but don't know if this could increase sensor temperature. 

Maybe others could add on this. 

Fabio

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the laptop, I simply use a plastic storage bin, without its lid, tipped on one side.  Big enough to take the open laptop with a bit of a gap around the edges.  For best astro-bling effect, use the colour red!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never had any problems with DSLR - could perhaps place a light piece of cloth during imaging just to absorb any excess?

For the computer I use an EACC - see my blog link below - which has always proved perfect, is very adaptable and is free!

  https://watchthisspaceman.wordpress.com/2014/10/01/vision-technician/

I should say, this is not a joke, it works very well 😀😀😀

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just put a duster over the camera.  The duster will obviously get damp but this shouldn't be a problem even for a non weather proof DSLR.  You can get little "coats" for DSLRs but I don't think they are a good idea because the camera can start to warm up

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a cardboard box on its side for my laptop. I tape the box to the table so it doesn't move.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd think the problem for a DSLR would be bringing it back into a warm atmosphere after a cold imaging session where dew would form on the cold body of the camera and potentially inside connections etc. I always replace the lens cap before bringing the camera inside and secure the rubber cover over the USB port. A few times recently ice has formed on the outside of the camera body (a Canon 700D) and I leave my camera in the colder kitchen covered with tea towels so that it can warm up more slowly than in the rest of the house. The following morning it has warmed up to ambient temperature and can be surfaced wiped and stored. I've only imaged with the laptop outside once and when I'd brought it inside I left it running on mains power for 15 minutes to ensure it had evaporated away any residual ice/water.

Cheers,
Steve

Edited by SteveNickolls

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the DSLR I saw a tip of placing it in a zip-lock bag before bringing it inside and allowing it to adjust to ambient temperature more slowly before removing it from the bag, this has worked well for me albeit I've only had the chance a couple of times. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Mogfor
      The Horsehead Nebula in Orion. This is one of the first deep space objects I saw in a book as a child and it captured my imagination - I’ve been intrigued by this incredible Universe ever since. As a small child, I’d have been blown away to think that 40 years later, I’d capture this image from my own backyard. I've only been astroimaging for less than a year so would appreciate any constructive comments/ criticism.  Higher resolution version at: https://astrob.in/393553/0/
      I tried something different with this image  as I was severely restricted by time and conditions - battling last months full moon and a small cloud free window of about two hours each evening where the Horsehead appeared between some large trees and the edge of our house!
      I took mainly Ha because of the moonlight but then blended in some Lum and Blue data to one master image. This brought out more detail in some of the nebulosity.  The resulting Master was then processed through the red channel only in PixInsight and Photoshop:
      Ha 36 x 240s
      Lum 25 x 60s
      Blue 20 x 60s
      Scope: Altair 130ED Triplet
      Mount: Celestron CGX
       

    • By Stardweller
      Hello,
      I own a Vixen ED-80 refractor which is used with a custom focuser by Telescope Service.
      (pictured below)
      A Celestron f/6 SCT reducer corrector did not provide decent images either because it is not appropriate or because I did not maintain the correct distance. 
      I am thinking of buying the Sky-Watcher .85x Reducer/Flattener instead, as it is made for similar ED80 telescopes. 
      I do not know what is the correct distance of the SkyWatcher reducer for my setup and more important, I do not know if it will focus with the custom TS focuser.
      Do you have any similar setup that you have used successfully?
      Clear Skies!
      Paul

    • By knobby
      Had a quick search but not found much info, I've just 'transitioned' from DSLR to a CMOS (AA 183C pro)
      Used to capture with APT or Backyard Nikon, save as RAW, DSS to stack and use autosave.tif to work on in Photoshop. Whats the general consensus on CMOS ?
      So far trying APT or Sharpcap, saving as FITS, stacking in DSS still and using autosave.tif into Photoshop. I keep seeing fits liberator mentioned ?
      Opinions gratefully received.  
    • By kman42
      I have an EQ5 telescope mount which i use for astrophotography. I have modified it with a motorised RA axis using a bipolar stepper motor - my thread for the build is here .
      I want to expand the mount's tracking ability by motorising the DEC axis and using a guide scope/camera. I generally use the mount in fairly remote locations so would like to use a raspberry Pi for portability.
      I understand that I'll need to use a Raspberry Pi Camera Module for the guide camera. 
      The capability I want is:
      1. guide the mount along RA and DEC axes using a guide star as feedback
      2. track the mount using the RA axis only, and if possible continuously take 20-30 second exposures on the guide camera (this functionality is optional, but would assist in polar alignment of the mount)
      I don't want any GOTO capability. I am very new to RPi and need some help:
      - do I need to write code for this, or is there existing programming available for what I want to do?
      - is it possible to avoid the use of screens (in the field)? My preferred option would be to flick a switch to start and stop the guiding, with another switch for alignment mode (or something simple like this).
      - do I need to use any particular stepper motors/drivers for raspberry Pi? I'm using a bipolar stepper motor running quarter steps, with an A4988 stepper driver
      - is the RPi 3 Model B+ the unit I should buy?
      Thanks
       
    • By chris_33
      I am going to upgrade to the skywatcher 250/1200 pds telescope and i can't decide which mount i should get.
      The main (only) purpose is astrophtography and i am considering either the eq6-r- pro or the cem60
      The cem60 can carry more weight but is also more expensive, my inner debate now is about if it is worth it
      What's you take on it?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.