Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

Sign in to follow this  
Xiga

Veil Nebula Mosaic - 17 Hrs of Ha and Oiii

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

After processing the Eastern & Wastern Veils separately a couple of months back, I've finally got round to doing the mosaic that was always the end goal (hence the framing of each panel). I'm not sure why I waited so long to do it, I think deep-down I was secretly dreading it really, as this is my first mosaic so I wasn't really sure how it would go.

So this is just 2 panels, and each one has 5 hrs of Ha (15 x 1200s), with 3 hrs 20 mins of Oiii in one (10 x 1200s) and 3 hrs 40 mins of Oiii (11 x 1200s) in the other. So 17 hrs in total.

APP was used for stacking, gradient reduction, and the mosaic creation. PS used for everything else.

Ha assigned to Red, Oiii to Blue, and Green was synthesized from one of Carboni's actions.

I've tried to push it as far as I dare to, did I over-do it do you think? I've resized it down to 66% to help hide some of the noise, and being a mosaic it's still plenty big. I might even end up bringing it down to 50%, we'll see.

C&C welcome as always. I tend to finish my images very late at night, so I can sometimes fall into the trap of not seeing the image as clearly as I should! So feel free to be as harsh as you like ?

 

Veil Nebula Mosaic.jpg

  • Like 16

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's wonderful. ?

Not over done at all. Worth leaving an image sit when you think you're done and come back fresh eyed.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A stunner Ciaran.  The framing is excellent and processing top notch.  Can I ask, did SGP help with the mosaic framing?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I too tend to process late at night and probably post too early, I should look at them again in the cold light of day.

However, I  cannot be harsh with this image, it’s  beautifully framed, and on the the scale you chosen there is nice crisp detail and good colour balance.

I would love to have a go at imaging the entire Veil like this, but it would be a 16 panel mosaic with my set up.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Allinthehead said:

That's wonderful. ?

Not over done at all. Worth leaving an image sit when you think you're done and come back fresh eyed.

Thanks Richard. And good advice. Advice I should heed more often than I do, lol 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, RichLD said:

Wonderful image, well done!

 

2 hours ago, tomato said:

I too tend to process late at night and probably post too early, I should look at them again in the cold light of day.

However, I  cannot be harsh with this image, it’s  beautifully framed, and on the the scale you chosen there is nice crisp detail and good colour balance.

I would love to have a go at imaging the entire Veil like this, but it would be a 16 panel mosaic with my set up.

Thanks guys ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

A stunner Ciaran.  The framing is excellent and processing top notch.  Can I ask, did SGP help with the mosaic framing?

Thank you Adam. 

Oh boy does SGP help with mosaics! It's so simple. It shows you the sky view of the target and all you do is draw a rectangle over the area you want to capture. It then converts them into the right no. of tiles for you. Each tile then shows up as it's own target, which can be platesolved and rotated to on any given night. As you can see from my one above, I didn't have much room for error on either side. And even though it took me 4 nights to capture the frames, there was very little lost data near the edges. 

You don't even need a fancy rotator. SGP tells you how many degrees to rotate your focuser. It usually only takes me about 5 minutes to get within about 0.5 degrees accuracy. It's worth every penny! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cracking work with you Ciaran.The  structure and the colour is out standing with you.Mark

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Peggson
      I shot this yesterday from a Bortle 6 backyard. Edited in Pixinsight and Photoshop
       
      If someone here knows how to remove purple stars, please  help me . I tried defringing but it didn't really work.
      Also the date is wrong should be 9.10.2020. lol
    • By Anthony RS
      Hello,
      I'm selling these 2 filters since I'm getting a mono astro cam. The filters are barely used and in perfect condition, no scratches, no fingerprints, not even dust. They are both amazing filters, probably the best investment I've made. I've attached some images
      taken with these filters, using a 100$ celestron newtonian, a 250$ Canon 500D and the infamous AVX. Also attached are images of the filters showing their perfect condition.
      Astronomik CLS-CCD Canon Clip in Filter: https://www.astronomik.com/en/filter-gegen-lichtverschmtzung-filters-against-lightpollution-lpr/cls-ccd-filter/clip-filter-eos-mit-astronomik-cls-ccd.html
      Original price including VAT is 155 Euros (around USD 182). I got it for around USD230 including VAT, shipping and custom taxes.
      Selling for USD 120.
      Astronomik Ha 12nm Canon Clip in Filter: https://www.astronomik.com/en/clip-filter/clip-filter-canon-aps-c/clip-filter-eos-mit-astronomik-h-alpha-ccd-12nm.html
      Original price including VAT 194 Euros (around USD 228). Got it for around USD 270 including VAT, shipping and custom taxes.
      Selling for USD 180
      I am willing to ship them on my own expense using LibanPost (from Lebanon). Shipping might take time; if you would like to use some other shipment method please contact me to discuss the price. 
      Feel free to buy one or both together.
      Let me know if you have any questions. 
      You can also contact me on <private email address removed>
      Cheers,
      Anthony









    • By endlessky
      I have already posted my first astrophotographic session report in the telescope review thread: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series - Review. But since that is more of a general review/diary of my experience with the new telescope, I feel some of the issues I am having are being buried and they will probably get more visibility if I post them - in a more synthetic version - in a dedicated thread.
      So, a few nights ago (October, the 5th) I took out my new telescope for its first light. All the photos have been taken with the 0.8x flattener/reducer and the Optolong L-Pro 2" filter attached to the reducer. The camera is an astromodified Nikon D5300. The only processing the following pictures have consists in this:
      - AutomaticBackgroundExtractor
      - ColorCalibration
      - Stretch
      Here we have a 90s shot of M31.

      And here's a mosaic generated with the AberrationInspector script.

      What I do like:
      - tightest, smallest, roundest stars I have gotten since I started doing astrophotography at the end of January. Obviously comparing it to what I have been achieving with a kit 70-300mm zoom lens, these can't be anything else but better by orders of magnitude
      What I don't like:
      - star shape not consistent in all areas of the image
      - residual chromatic aberration, especially on stars that are not round: there's clearly some red and blue edges visible
      I didn't expect this from an apochromatic refractor, but maybe it's just because the stars are kinda "smeared", so not all light is focused at the same spot? I don't see this around the center of the image (or, at least, the problem is less pronounced). Maybe I have some tilting in my imaging train/sensor?
      I have been doing some reasoning about it and it seems like a combination of tilting and/or backfocus spacing. According to the following image about backfocus spacing:

      if the stars are elongated radially, the sensor is too close, if they are elongated tangentially, the sensor is too far. But to me it seems I have a little bit of both: in the top right corner, for example, the stars look radially elongated, in the bottom right, they look tangentially elongated. Top left they look tangentially elongated, bottom left also, but a little less. Seems like there has to be some tilting as well, otherwise they would all have a symmetric shape on all corners, correct?
      How do I determine - is there even a way - if the issue is due to tilting only, backfocus only, or the combination of the two? Is there a sure proof way of checking for tilting? Like, rotating the camera and taking pictures with, say, the camera at 0°, 90°, 270° and 360°? If there's tilting, the pattern of the star shapes should follow the camera, correct?
      I also tried splitting the channels in R, G, and B components, doing a star alignment of the blue and red channels with the green as a reference, and recombining the channels. The blue and red edges become a lot less evident, which is good, but obviously the star shapes remain the same.
      In my Telescopius gallery you can also find two other images, Capella and Capella Mosaic showing pretty much the same issues.
      Also, one issue with the guide camera: ZWO ASI 224MC. When attached to the guide scope (Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4), I can't seem to get a "sharp" focus, I even tried on the Moon, and the best I got was a soft lunar disc, with some major features visible, mainly by change of color/brightness (the maria, for example), but no details. The image still seemed blurred/bloated. Is it because of lack of IR blocking filter? I tried the same camera attached to the main refractor, with the L-Pro filter (which blocks UV and IR, as well) and I could focus perfectly. Do I need an IR block filter for guiding or even if the stars appear a little soft, the camera guides just fine?
      Matteo
    • By WiltsStarGazer
      Having previously got some reasonable images by mounting a smart phone to the eyepiece. I thought I would try for a more sophisticated set up.
      So last night I tried to get some pictures of the moon using a Canon Eos D450 connected to a Skywatcher 130p Newtonian via a T2 connection on the eyepiece holder.
      As the camera has automatic focusing built into the lens I thought I would have to adjust the focuser on the eyepiece holder to manually get a sharp image.
      Basically the telescope acting as a manually focused lens for the camera.
      But no joy, I just got a bright light which seemed to fill the camera view finder. I tried various settings on the camera, adjusting ISO and aperture etc,  I also had some extention rings for the camera lens so tired fitting those to extend the focal length but no better.
      I sure there are many palms being slapped against foreheads reading this but as you can tell I have no idea, although I do have some of the gear.
      Any pointers and/or advise would be gratefully received.
    • By Emilio
      Hello all,
      I'm new to this forum and astrophotography, and observing for that matter!
      I've been observing for a few weeks now, well, when the clouds allow, obviously! I thought I'd dip my toe in the water as far as imaging goes, but didn't want to go nuts in terms of budget. As luck would have it I managed to get hold of a Canon 1100D on eBay complete with full spectrum mod for £129, which seemed pretty reasonable to me given the cost of the modification on its own. The camera is in great condition and seems to work fine, however I have a couple of queries that I hope you more experienced peeps can help with.
      Firstly I would like to get an OWB filter and wondered if anyone had an opinion on Optolong vs Astronomik? Astronomic are a lot more expensive so if the Optolong does a good job why spend extra?
      Second, and more importantly, I have questions about auto focus. It seems that generally people say that if the IR/UV cut filter is completely removed then the camera will definitely lose the ability to auto focus (although some people say this isn't the case?). I checked with the eBay vendor and he confirmed that the in-built filter has been completely removed and no glass / filter replacement has been put back in place, which if my understanding is correct is what is required to retain auto focus. However, the camera seems to be auto focusing fine as far as I can tell.
      How can this be?
      Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.