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Still sorting the (new to me), Atik 16200 imaging train as I try to shift from my trusty SBIG 8300, Mac to PC for mount control/capture and from a separate guide scope to the Atik OAG....
The camera needs to go back to Atik (awaiting the email from Vince) as there is dust inside the chamber, so this is a good time to get everything checked - ready for the autumn season.
After some imaging/testing time at the rear of Leo in the last week, I noticed on my flat frames a strange half moon light - by the dust mote (that was over-correcting the lights).
Eventually I worked out it was the screws surrounding the sensor cover window (or the 3x rounded cap screws that attach the EFW3), bouncing the light onto the back of the filter (Baader L in this example) and I suppose onto the cover window and onto the sensor. To test the theory, I opened the imaging train up and added a Sharpie pen to them. Couldn't get into the cross-heads with the pen, but with re-testing, the reflection had gone! Perhaps it would never be an issue with the actual light frames, but you never know with a bright star in the frame of a future target...?
So today, after shifting slightly outwards the OAG stalk, I addressed the stainless steel screws 'properly', by (again), taking everything apart and lightly painting a cover of matt black acrylic paint over them and into the x-heads (a bit of overspill), nothing too heavy-handed as I didn't want to glue the things in with paint! The finished effect is duller than the pic here and the reflection has gone after another round of testing.
Always something to catch us out, hey!? Why Atik can't use black screws is another matter.....
Perhaps this may help others out at some stage....
This is another finished target for this season.
I (quite) recently bought a TS Photoline 102 ED with FPL53 which performs surprisingly well for a doublet. So I put it to tests and imaging, in parallel with an older FPL51 AstroProfessional 102 ED doublet.
The blue color correction is much better in the newer TS. I shoot luminance often with both and then take the highlights from the better scope.
For this image I also used some older data that I had available, shot with a 130PDS, but that maybe only made my life more difficult. Not that otherwise I shot data through the refractors in a single panel with reducers/correctors, but also in 2 panels with no reducing correctors. Same about the RGB. Some shorter exposures from the backyard, some from a dark site, most of the G data from a dark site, B and R from home (clouds came in at the dark site) and a lot of other adventures.
But in the end I managed to put them all together and made an image out of them.
You can watch it in full resolution and see other details on astrobin: Great Orion Nebula
Over the past few days i've been gathering data on M31 due to the battery not lasting long and andomeda dissapearing behind a tree, therefore the mulitple imaging sessions. So far i've been out and me being me, only took dark, bias and light frames for the first 2 sessions but for the last one i also included flats... (The lights all have very slightly different settings cause i have been experimenting slightly... that being 45sec @ ISO 400, 45sec @ ISO 200 and 50sec @ ISO 100) Now DSS assinged all the correct bias and dark frames to the corresponding light frames but because i only have flats for my last imaging session it applied those to all the different light frames and not just to the last set...(and due to me moving the telescope / taking the camera off, the dust spots have obviously been moving around and that therefor dont work at all for the other light frames...) So my question: Is there any way in DSS to apply flats to only one set of light frames and if not are there any other apps with which i can do this with?
Can you help solve this mystery, please? Star Sense camera will not hold calibration with OTA after mount is rebooted.By StarGazingSiouxsie
Can you help me solve this mystery, please?
I have a 2020 Celestron 8" Edge Evolution Ltd Edition 60 Anniversary model. The OTA is carbon fibre and some of the artwork is different but for in tents & purposes it's a standard 8" Edge Evolution
The problem is, when the mount is switched off. the telescope will not maintain its calibration between Star Sense (SS) camera and the OTA. Please not I am not talking a SS alignment here - I'm talking about the calibration between the SS camera and OTA.
This is what happens - I will do a SS Auto Alignment and the goto will be out by some margin IE. way outside of a 25mm eyepiece. So, I then calibrate the SS camera to the OTA, re-align, and everything is working perfectly. The goto is more or less in the middle of a 12mm eyepiece. Next time I reboot the mount, I do my SS Auto alignment and the goto is way off again and I have re calibrate the SS camera to the OTA. Once I do that, everything works fine again. And so the cycle continues.
Have you experienced this problem yourself or do you have an idea of what may be happening? Before you offer your suggestions, please read this list as what I have done to try and solve this issue:
1. The tripod and OTA are absolutely level before booting up the mount.
2. Once I have booted up the mount, I enter time and my location, using GPS co-ordinates. I am extremely precise about this and am entering the correct time (and daylight saving as needed) to within 2 seconds. The GPS co-ordinates of my location as absolutely spot on as well - they are the same co-ordinates I use for all my telescopes and they are working perfectly. So this is defs not a time, date or location issue.
3. The SS camera is mounted perfectly It does not move at all. I have the calibration problem even after rebooting without moving the telescope's position at all.
4. I have even tried a new SS camera and handset. Exactly the same issue persists.
5. The handcontroller, mount and camera have all the latest updates.
6. The battery is working fine and holding it's charge perfectly.
As I mentioned earlier, once the SS camera is re calibrated, everything works fine and the goto is accurate. The problem only arises after rebooting the mount.
Any ideas, suggestions or sharing of similar experiences gladly welcomed, thank you.
when applying the flats taken in my last session (to find out what is causing the strange diffraction spikes) with Siril, the final stacked result still shows the vignetting and the dust spots. I also did the whole preprocessing with Nebulosity, same result.
I took the flats as follows:
same iso as my subs camera and focus not touched I use a homemade flatbox combined with the a white t-shirt with Ekos took test shots till the histogram was half-way to the left checked all my flats, they all show vignetting and the same dust spots as in my subs I tried using them with and without using a bias frame, same result, the final result looks as if no flats were used.
Anybody any idea what is going on? An other question I have, will the vignetting and dust spots also show in the master flat (flats stacked)?
Thanks for your help,