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By Anne S
Following a filter size upgrade I have an Astronomik LRGB set of filters, 1 1/4 inch. Probably around 12 years old. Kept in a filterwheel when in use but they have also been stored for a couple of years in their original box when I acquired some Baader ones to match my Baader narrowband filters. No scratches or coating issues. I have tried to show this in the images attached.
Looking for £80 posted given their age.
This is Markarian's Chain shot from my back garden over three nights in late March. Probably the deepest single image I've taken in terms of integration time...which leaves me feeling my processing is not quite doing the data justice...maybe I'll come back to it.
In any case, this is an incredible part of space; looking away from our galaxy reveals countless others!
The crazy number of Lum subs took a whole day for APP to chug through and so I've resolved to lower the gain from unity going forwards to get more manageable sub lengths than 15 seconds!
L: 1050 (!) x 15s R: 92 x 60s G: 165 x 30s B 165 x 30s....total integration time 8.2 hours.
Captured using APT, stacked in APP and processed in Pixinsight.
Thanks for looking!
Edit: Link to higher res version
Galaxies in Leo Hickson 44 is a group of interacting galaxies in the constellation Leo, also designated as Arp 316 in The Atlas of Peculiar Galaxies. Inverted crop of luminance: Equipment used: Altair Astro Hypercam 183v2 mono EQ6 Skywatcher ED80 N.I.N.A. used for capture and control, calibrated and stacked in Astro Pixel Processor, post processing in PixInsight with final color tweaks and watermark in Photoshop. NGC 3190 is the nearly edge on spiral galaxy in the center of the image, with the very prominent dustlane. Lower to the right is NGC 3187 a barred spiral galaxy. Above we find the hazy eliptical galaxy NGC 3193. NGC 3185 to the lower left is not a part of the Hickson 44 group, but is another lovely barred spiral galaxy. The distance to Hickson 44 is approximately 80 million lightyears. Total integration time is around 9 hours in a bit of a mixed bag of subs. 100 minutes of luminance. 153 minutes of Red. 150 minutes of Green. 141 minutes of Blue. I made a synthetic luminance by stacking all lum, red, green and blue subs for a total luminance stack of roughly 9 hours, but it stands to reason that the contribution of the RGB only equates to a little under 3 hours of luminance. I am experimenting with just shooting RGB and combining it as a synthetic luminance, it is probably faster to get real luminance in the end. But shooting this much RGB compared to what I normally do, made it a little easier to process I think. More details and a full resolution version here: Astrobin Question: I am getting quite a bit of split color stars, I am assuming this is to do with the less than perfect correction of my optics? Comments and criticism is always welcome!
One and a half clear nights for me early in the year and I focused on M45. As a naked eye visible target, I think subconsciously I never gave M45 the concentration it deserves, thinking I could always catch it another time.
Anyway, despite lusting after the Horsehead, I kept my refractor pointed at the seven sisters in new moon skies and the result is below.
I actually found it pretty hard to process...the seven sisters themselves were pretty well behaved, but I couldn't decide what to do with the background. I know this is a dusty region so I did not want to put DBE samples everywhere. But at the end the background seems a bit smudgy after tweaking curves - I'm not sure whether to darken the background or leave it as is.
3.4 hours of LRGB integration. Full details on Astrobin.
Thanks for looking!
First post here, and I'm pretty new to AP, just picked up a Star Adventurer mount a couple months ago and have been happily playing around with it with DSLR and various lenses and a 72mm Sky-Watcher refractor. I'm new to the whole setup process, and I'm trying to do a decent job of leveling the tripod/mount, polar alignment, and I should probably think more about balancing the weight of things. I've gotten some decent shots, like 60-120 second subs with up to 300mm lens. My last time out I was getting star trails at 200mm and 15 second exposures, which could have been just a sloppy polar alignment, but today out of curiosity I looked through the polar scope and rotated the RA axis 360 degrees, and I saw that the target circle jumped a few times. I'm guessing that the target circle should appear not to move while the numbers 3, 6, 9, 12 would rotate around as I rotate the RA axis. So my guess is that the polar scope would need to be calibrated?