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Hello everyone, I've got a question.
I want to upgrade the visual back on the Mak 127. The standard back on the Mak is not pleasant to work with as seen in the image. I need to get rid of this plastic thing. I purchased a mak to sct adapter when I bought the scope, I never got around to doing anything until now as I've just acquired a Baader 2.25x barlow as shown in the image.
Now, I've had a go of attaching the the Baader Barlow into the original plastic thing on the mak, it works .... but I'm not happy with the connection being made with the two locking screws, as there is still movement when the barlow, t-ring and Canon DSLR are all in the train.
I've been having a look on FLO for some work around, does anyone have some input as to whether this will work.
Mak to sct adapter-> Baader 2 inch to 1.25 reducer adapter->Baader 2.25x barlow + T ring & DSLR
Any input or a better way of securing everything is greatly appreciated!😊
Another option I've come across is this , Baader ClickLock 2"-1.25" Adapter and Baader T2 Extension Tube to bring it to 40mm when attached to the mak to sct adapter. Anyone have any experience with this?
By LR Watanabe
Okay, this is yet to happen, but in one year or so, I'll be fortunate enough to be in the position of being able to spend a whopping 1200$ on one telescope/mount and all that [removed word].
Like a narrowband filter narrows the light going through the eyepiece, I've narrowed it down to either getting something of your recommendations OR a Sky Watcher 10" Flextube Dobsonian. Since, by that time, I'll already have a HEQ5 and a 150 PDS that'll be used for taking Astrophotos, I thought I might as well get something for visual observations of mostly galaxies (and sometimes nebulae), too. Dobsonians are the best as they offer the most aperture, which is what I've heard from at least 1000 beginner-aimed websites like "What telescope should you choose?" In the end, it all boils down to aperture for DSO visual astronomy, and so my heart is set upon a good Dob under 1200$– a Sky Watcher 10" Flextube.
What do you think of this? A 10" flextube Dob by SW, a company known for making quality products (and some rubbish ones somtimes, too)?
I have just joined and have been looking around, and putting in various searches to find the answer to my question(s).
I have already found some valuable information, but i can't find a specific answer to a question i have relating to exposure times.
I have shot the milky way several times before, from a tripod and a wide angle lens. I am aware of and understand the "500 rule" and that worked fine for me at first when i was shooting with my Canon 6D Mark II. When i moved over to the Sony A7III i noticed significant trailing using the same rule and that led me to the NPF rule (Via the photopills app incase people dot know).
I am heading back to Tenerife once again in about 6 weeks time and want to buy a star tracker so i can get some really detailed images.
I have done a fair bit of research and in principle, the whole thing doesn't seem to be too daunting or difficult.
I have purchased the Polar Scope Align Pro app so i can align Polaris as accurately as possible, i will practise putting the unit together and familiarising myself with the different parts etc, but it is the exposure times that i do not understand.
My best glass is the Carl Ziess 50mm F/1.4 Planar, the 18mm F/2.8 Batis, the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art & the IRIX 15mm F/2.4 Blackstone.
I currently do not own, nor have i ever used a tracker, and I cannot find any information relating to which aperture, ISO and Shutter length any of these focal lengths should or could be shot at.
Is there anything similar to the 500 rule or NPF rule that relates to using a tracker with varied focal lengths? or is it just a case of stepping the lens down for sharpness and then trial and error?
Thanks in advance,
I am at the moment trying to set up "Dithering" on my APT.
I am presently using a Canon 600D, with Orion ED80 Refractor, mounted on my NEQ6PRO.
Please note, I have not yet progressed to Guiding - NO GUIDING
Do I basically select "APT Dithering" and maybe leave all the other settings at Default?
Most grateful if anyone can let be know which settings I might need to adjust, and to what values.
Finding it all a little bit confusing !