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314l cooling


spillage

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Hi All,

Just trying to set up my 314L but I do not seem to be able to use setpoint cooling. This is both with artemis and atp. In artemis it show cooling "on" but I cannot change the temp. Not sure if its the user of equipment. I have tried several leads and power sources.

Cheers,

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Are you trying this indoors in the warm, as it can struggle to go down if too warm?  The temperature goes down slowly and you should sit and wait and watch the readings, but should only take about a minute or two unless as I say you are indoors.

Carole 

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This is the 314L not the plus version. So does the L version just cool at the minimum temperature possible? I have it running for a good 15 minutes last night and all apt reported was 0 degrees. I have read that you can set the temp on the 314L, that option is greyed out in artemis and apt.

@carastro yes this was indoors but at the moment I have no heating so it was not that warm. I will have another look tonight but just trying to work out if its me of the camera/software/driver.

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Yes the 314L is cooled with a peltier cooler and should reach -25 below ambient, you cannot specify the temperature setting. This camera cooling works similar to the Atik 16HR.

Its is greyed out in Artemis due to the camera not providing the function of set point cooling. Its normal.

http://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/review/camera/atik-314l-cooled-ccd-camera

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2 hours ago, spillage said:

Oh okay so you just turn the cooling and leave it. How essential are the darks for these,  Would you need to take darks every session as per a dslr. I guess I am just used to using my asi1600.

I don't use darks at all, on any CCD chip, and I use two very high noise Kodak 11 megs in our line up. On a Sony chip they are certainly not necessary. I would suggest you use a master bias as a dark. (My present one is 18 months old.)  If you can dither between subs then that will be that. If you can't, then a hot pixel filter at the stacking stage should do the rest. Or maybe your stacking software accepts Defect Maps? In that case follow the software's instructions and make one. However, with our Sony chip I use a master bias as a dark, I don't dither*, I do run a hot pixel filter and I find it works sweetly. For example...

120405640_M97OWLHaOIIIRGB9HrsV2.thumb.jpg.ff1a7860e5d25c6a1458242410eaac8f.jpg

 

 

Olly

* Some small polar misalignment does build in a little dither on long runs but it is too small to trouble 20 minute subs which are the longest I find useful on the Atik 460.

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Yes as noted above, the 314L (not plus) doesn't have set point cooling, it's either on or off.  It does mean darks would need to be done per session if the temperature varies a lot, but the benefit over the DSLR is the ability to turn the cooler on, and the fact that the sensor is already cooled.

I think most people make a new set of darks with these when there is a distinct change in ambient temperature, otherwise try using just bias frames.

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