Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
One of the best cameras for Ha solar. With a 1/2" chip and large pixels, I used to fit the entire disc with lunt 35. I can still do a full disk with a quark using my TS 60ED and a reducer on the camera nose. This camera does not suffer from Newton's rings so saves a lot of time which is otherwise wasted in setting up a tilt adjuster.
Boxed with the cable, probably i have the disc as well, but not sure where in my astro dump it is. Software is available from the website though.
the prominences of the previous days on limb of the sun now are visible as filaments on the solar disc itself. Lacking amazing prominences on the limb, I hsve been concentrating on sketching the filaments this time. Compared with my previous sketches they moved from the right towards the middle. Note that my sketches are usually left-right-flipped due to the telescope's mirror.
So here's the result:
Telescope: Lunt LS 50 THa B600 PT
Eyepiece: Celestron X-cel 10mm
Date & Time: June 7th, 2019 / 1000-1030 CEST
Location: home terrace, Dusseldorf region, Germany
Technique: reddish and black Koh-i-Noor soft pastels and pastel pens on light-grey Hahnemühle Ingres mould-made pastel paper
Clear and sunny skies!
I have just joined and have been looking around, and putting in various searches to find the answer to my question(s).
I have already found some valuable information, but i can't find a specific answer to a question i have relating to exposure times.
I have shot the milky way several times before, from a tripod and a wide angle lens. I am aware of and understand the "500 rule" and that worked fine for me at first when i was shooting with my Canon 6D Mark II. When i moved over to the Sony A7III i noticed significant trailing using the same rule and that led me to the NPF rule (Via the photopills app incase people dot know).
I am heading back to Tenerife once again in about 6 weeks time and want to buy a star tracker so i can get some really detailed images.
I have done a fair bit of research and in principle, the whole thing doesn't seem to be too daunting or difficult.
I have purchased the Polar Scope Align Pro app so i can align Polaris as accurately as possible, i will practise putting the unit together and familiarising myself with the different parts etc, but it is the exposure times that i do not understand.
My best glass is the Carl Ziess 50mm F/1.4 Planar, the 18mm F/2.8 Batis, the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art & the IRIX 15mm F/2.4 Blackstone.
I currently do not own, nor have i ever used a tracker, and I cannot find any information relating to which aperture, ISO and Shutter length any of these focal lengths should or could be shot at.
Is there anything similar to the 500 rule or NPF rule that relates to using a tracker with varied focal lengths? or is it just a case of stepping the lens down for sharpness and then trial and error?
Thanks in advance,