brrttpaul Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 alays look roreward to it appearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooth_dr Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 24 minutes ago, brrttpaul said: alays look roreward to it appearing Lovely. This is really whetting my appetite for M45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knighty2112 Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 That’s great! What settings did you use to get the nebulisity to show? Excellent work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brrttpaul Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 ed80 scope, heq5 pier mount, Asi1600 mono, captured with SGPRO,I find the best setting for me is gain at 50 offset 15 ( right or wrong no idea but seems ok with me), Lum 10 secs x 42, RGB 60 secs, x42 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobro Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 1 hour ago, brrttpaul said: Lum 10 secs x 42, RGB 60 secs, x42 Love the star colours! Though I'm a bit puzzled by the exposure - isn't Lum supposed to be longer than RGB to capture detail as our eyes aren't that sensitive to colour? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brrttpaul Posted September 24, 2018 Author Share Posted September 24, 2018 I dont think so but then again im still a beginner, I have always been lead to believe lum binned 1x1 and rgb binned 2x2, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDO Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Very nice image... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimvb Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Lovely. An old truth in ccd imaging is to shoot a little rgb at bin 2x2, to keep the noise down, and lots of lum at full resolution to get detail. But with low noise cmos, there's little use to bin rgb. Some imagers don't even collect lum at all. But if you do, get loads more, whatever exposure time you use. Maximum exposure time should be determined by gear (guiding) and sky conditions rather than old truths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDO Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 I observed this visually in the scope last night, the Full Moon had it all looking pretty bland without the typical glare and shimmer of the brighter stars. Keep M45 coming you guys, can't wait to see more of these especially with the inclusion of nebulous components ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Just for reference - I've got the same camera and use these settings for LRGB Gain = 139 (unity gain) Offset = 10 L = 1min RGB = 2min Like you, I'm not sure if these are the best but I've never had to use any different settings to get superb results ? I'm surprised that there isn't more nebulosity showing between the stars in your image. It looks like it should be there based on the amount around the stars themselves - what software did you use to process this? Very nice image - especially like the colour of the background stars. David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brrttpaul Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 I like unity gain, but the nifty fifty (thats what i call it lol) just gives me a cleaner image and my stars are not as likely to be blown out, also I do suffer with amp glow (think all zwo cameras do) so when i do the stretch in PI i always ease back a tad rather than have it fully stretched, the dynamic background extraction seems to make it worse in most cases so usually use the automatic extraction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimvb Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 2 hours ago, brrttpaul said: also I do suffer with amp glow (think all zwo cameras do) They all seem to suffer from that, to a certain degree. But darks usually work very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brrttpaul Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 I always use darks, still makes no difference, wonder if there is a rule of thumb percentage wise? i use about 50 darks on my images Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordie85 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 26 minutes ago, brrttpaul said: I always use darks, still makes no difference, wonder if there is a rule of thumb percentage wise? i use about 50 darks on my images I use darks with my qhy183c and still have amp glow present unless I use flats and dark flats too. Then it's completely calibrated out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brrttpaul Posted September 25, 2018 Author Share Posted September 25, 2018 I have never understood darkflats , I take flats but been told not to take any bias , maybe I should look into dark flats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordie85 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 1 hour ago, brrttpaul said: I have never understood darkflats , I take flats but been told not to take any bias , maybe I should look into dark flats They're exposures taken at the same length as your flats but with the dew cap on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimvb Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 (You may already be familiar with this, but anyway.) The ASI1600 has a different sensor from other ZWO cameras. I believe it's a Panasonic sensor, while other cameras have Sony. Sony sensors have generally more amp glow. Amp glow is the build up of signal in the pixel wells, due to dark current and a local increase in temperature. Since it's electronic in nature, it's calibrated out with darks. (But this doesn't explain why flats would be needed too). Flat frames at "longer" exposure times, need their own darks for the very same reason. That's why with cooled CMOS, you normally shoot lights, darks, flats and dark flats (= darks for flats). If there is no amp glow, you can use bias frames to calibrate flats, rather than dark flats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brrttpaul Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 Ah thx both the penny drops, I will get onto that tonight when I get home thx very much for explaining it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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