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Thalestris24

3D Printers

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18 minutes ago, Gina said:

Well, maybe - I don't really know.  The Titan was a big printer when I built it.  Maybe I need a better name for the Giant - Gargantuan or Gigantic comes to mind but they're rather long.  As things are now the Titan has become the "GinaRep Standard", or "GinaRep Medium".  And what happens if I build an even bigger box type printer???

Leviathan :)

James

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Could be James.  Maybe I'll save that for my next bigger printer.  Once I've had a good clear-out I might have room for something bigger.  There is one possibility if I come to a certain decision.   There's this rather strange green wooden shed I built in my garden some years ago that seems to get little use these days!  Unfortunately, there's this ruddy great concrete pillar right in the way of where I might put the print bed!  And it's attached to about a tonne of concrete block below ground level.  Forethought???  Wassat???

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There's also a great big cattle barn out back but that's half full of old vehicles and almost half full of rubbish.  The trouble with that - apart from the rubbish - is it gets very damp.  Though not as damp as my front porch which is missing a roof panel and the top parts of some of the wall panels.  Maybe I should get round to some repairs next summer...

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I've printed out a couple of different fan duct designs today for when I switch to the Arduino/RAMPS system.  Also dug out a couple of 40mm fans from my pile of PC bits.  I think I'm pretty much where I need to be to start on the upgrade now.  Just have to screw my courage to the sticking place and get on with it.

At the same time I'm going to try to adjust the Y axis a little.  Whilst the printer is supposed to have a 200mm square print area, I'm not convinced there's sufficient travel to achieve that as it is currently set up, but moving the microswitch for the zero position on the Y axis back by 15mm or so and then moving the entire bed and carriage forward by the same amount might well make that possible.  Need to have a think about that, actually.  I may need to print a mounting bracket for the microswitch before I start.

James

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3 hours ago, Gina said:

Well, maybe - I don't really know.  The Titan was a big printer when I built it.  Maybe I need a better name for the Giant - Gargantuan or Gigantic comes to mind but they're rather long.  As things are now the Titan has become the "GinaRep Standard", or "GinaRep Medium".  And what happens if I build an even bigger box type printer???

Yes, I know about hang-printers and had considered it.  Haven't the space at the moment.

Brontoprinter...

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Tyrannoprinter...

Edited by Gina

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E3D already have that name for their 4 nozzle hotend.  They have the name Titan too but that was after I named my printer.

Edited by Gina

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Well, that's rather irritating :(

I have this lovely "wraparound" cooler design that I printed out last night, but the holes for mounting the fan are too big to take a 2mm screw.  They'd happily take a 3mm screw, but the holes through the fan body will only take a 2mm screw.  I don't really want to drill the fan body out because it won't leave much for the screw head to clamp down on.

The second one I printed out isn't tall enough.  It would actually blow cool air onto the heater block.

So I powered up the printer to try a couple more designs and it's now telling me there's a "MINTEMP" error, so it looks as though the thermistor in the heater block has gone awol somehow.

This could be tomorrow's problem...

James

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2 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Broken connection. Don't ask....

Yes, it's looking that way.  If I waggle the cables a bit I get the temperature reading back.  Just wondering if I dare try a print with it now.

James

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19 minutes ago, JamesF said:

Yes, it's looking that way.  If I waggle the cables a bit I get the temperature reading back.  Just wondering if I dare try a print with it now.

James

My advice is don't... <voice of experience>

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Well, I found a position where the thermistor worked and taped the wires into place temporarily.  It managed about half of a 300-row print very happily, then gave up again.  So it looks like I have to fix it properly.

Perhaps I'll make a new bracket for the Y axis limit switch out of metal instead.  Oh, the horror!

James

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Fix the thermistor electrical fault and see how it goes from there.  No good putting it off but I've been the same at times.

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A colleague loosened a heater cartridge once, temperature feedback then overcooked the heater and blew the control board... got to be careful.

 

Peter

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I've finally got at the thermistor.  Turned out to be a little more tricky than anticipated.    I have discovered that I now need some tape that works at high temperatures and probably some new insulation material for the heater block too, so I might be out of action until after Christmas unless I can find something suitable for a temporary workaround in the workshop.

The tube between the heater block and extruder was a pig to get out of the heater block, but it had to come out so I could remove the insulation in (mostly) one piece to get at the grub screw holding the thermistor in place.  The threads are quite gunged up (with PLA I assume).

Anyhow, now I just need to take some of the cable ties and spiral wrap off, remove the old thermistor and replace it with the new one and rebuild everything.  Perhaps whilst I'm at it I should add in an additional pair for the new fan.  It would save taking all the cabling apart again.

Or maybe I should just accept that since I have a fair bit of it in pieces already I might as well just go the whole hog and replace the controller board at the same time.

James

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One of the wires on one of the thermistors on my Giant printer has broken - not a problem, just need to solder it and cover with shrink sleeving.  Worse is that one wire has broken off one of the hotend heaters - that needs heater replacement as wire has broke right at the heater.  Think I have a spare.

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A mistake I made was taping the thermistor wires to the heater wires. Not hot enough to melt the solder, but hot enough to make the joint weak.

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Hotends are often supplied like this!  It's a definite cause of problems.

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Yes, my heater wires have about 30mm of shrinkwrap where they leave the hot end and the thermistor wires were taped to them over the top of that.

James

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Heater cartridges 'should' also be fused to the wire & not soldered as that makes the best contact with least resistance.....

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