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Thalestris24

3D Printers

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8 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

It says 1.1.6.2 on the About menu...

That as far as I can tell is the latest version. Unless they have created an updated firmware but not updated their github then there is no way of telling unless you run the test.
I updated the firmware anyway just in case and have since changed the board anyway so a non-issue now

Edited by dyfiastro

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50 minutes ago, Gasman said:

Hugely interesting post 👍. As an (admittedly not very active at the moment) spectroscopist using an Alpy 600, the mention of the Lowspec has stirred a somewhat dormant interest in spectro for me and with the addition of 3d printing adds yet another level for a self confessed gadget dabbler like moi!. Would the Ender 3 pro suit a very novice 3d'er ? A birthday is imminent so the time might be right😁.

Cheers

Steve

Hi Steve 

I'm a 3D Noob and I bought an Ender 3 Pro Specifically for printing the Lowspec spectrometer, though I'll use it for other things too. It has taken me about a month to get to grips with the printer and to print out the Lowspec design. I've been teaching myself Fusion 360 in order to be able to create slightly different parts and to edit the .stl files because things don't necessarily fit precisely. It's been a challenge but quite an interesting one. I'm not a mechanical engineer, lol. I tapped my first ever thread the other day! Fusion 360 is really good, is free too, but there is quite a learning curve. I've been able to use it to make T2 rings and custom holders for lenses. Of course, there are many videos on YouTube though some are a bit old. Some of the optical parts for the Lowspec are quite expensive (for me!) but if you have an Alpy 600 I'm guessing you don't want to actually build another spectrometer?

Louise

ps I started a separate thread for the Lowspec: 

 

Edited by Thalestris24
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6 minutes ago, dyfiastro said:

That as far as I can tell is the latest version. Unless they have created an updated firmware but not updated their github then there is no way of telling unless you run the test.
I updated the firmware anyway just in case and have since changed the board anyway so a non-issue now

It's a bit confusing as they only mention 1.1.61 on their web page:
https://creality.com/info/ender-3-ender-3-pro-ender-5-firmware-source-code-upgraded-i00025i1.html

Where on GitHub is the firmware code?

Thanks

Louise

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3 minutes ago, dyfiastro said:

Hmm... that seems out of date? There's no mention of version numbers that I could see though I'm not too well up on these things! 

Anyway, for the amount I'm likely to use it I won't worry about it. I wouldn't leave it running unattended.

Louise

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5 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Hmm... that seems out of date? There's no mention of version numbers that I could see though I'm not too well up on these things! 

Anyway, for the amount I'm likely to use it I won't worry about it. I wouldn't leave it running unattended.

Louise

Thats fine but I just wanted to let you know from my findings. I intended to run mine overnight so was a major issue for me.
Have you setup Octoprint? If not I can highly recommend it if you have a spare Pi3 around.
You can print over the network, remotely monitor it via webcam,create timelapses and allsorts

Another nice feature is that you can cancel parts of a print. If you have two or three different bits printing on the best at once and one fails, instead of having to stop the entire print you can just cancel that particular part.

Edited by dyfiastro
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Just now, dyfiastro said:

Thats fine but I just wanted to let you know from my findings. I intended to run mine overnight so was a major issue for me.
Have you setup Octoprint? If not I can highly recommend it if you have a spare Pi3 around.
You can print over the network, remotely monitor it via webcam and create timelapses and allsorts

No - I'm happy just to print from sdcard - I don't need anything else. I've probably already done the biggest/longest print that I'm likely to do - the lowspec case which took some 24 hrs or so. I have a Pi from 2017 but really don't have the time or inclination to mess around with it. Printer is working fine as is! :)

Louise

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1 hour ago, Thalestris24 said:

Hi Steve 

I'm a 3D Noob and I bought an Ender 3 Pro Specifically for printing the Lowspec spectrometer, though I'll use it for other things too. It has taken me about a month to get to gri printer and to print out the Lowspec design. I've been teaching myself Fusion 360 in order to be able to create slightly different parts and to edit the .stl files because things don't necessarily fit precisely. It's been a challenge but quite an interesting one. I'm not a mechanical engineer, lol. I tapped my first ever thread the other day! Fusion 360 is really good, is free too, but there is quite a learning curve. I've been able to use it to make T2 rings and custom holders for lenses. Of course, there are many videos on YouTube though some are a bit old. Some of the optical parts for the Lowspec are quite expensive (for me!) but if you have an Alpy 600 I'm guessing you don't want to actually build another spectrometer?

Louise

ps I started a separate thread for the Lowspec: 

Cheers for that Louise I’ll check out your other post. 👍🏻

 

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I received the replacement screen from China last week. Installed it yesterday and the (new) rotary encoder works properly - yay! My 3D printing quality of life has greatly improved :) But I'm still struggling to get T2 threads to print out nicely - not sure if it's just shrinkage or other inaccuracies. Of course, I've tried scaling to counteract shrinkage but it never comes out quite right! It may be that I have to scale in one axis, or two axes, only? It's a bit trial and error! 

Louise

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5 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

I received the replacement screen from China last week. Installed it yesterday and the (new) rotary encoder works properly - yay! My 3D printing quality of life has greatly improved :) But I'm still struggling to get T2 threads to print out nicely - not sure if it's just shrinkage or other inaccuracies. Of course, I've tried scaling to counteract shrinkage but it never comes out quite right! It may be that I have to scale in one axis, or two axes, only? It's a bit trial and error! 

Louise

Well done Louise and good for them sorting you out with a replacement. Just shows you sometimes making the effort to complain about faulty goods does pay off.  Good luck with printing the threads I haven't done that yet but I'm about to follow you down the path on the Low Spec , my black PLA arrived today :) 

Jim 

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4 minutes ago, saac said:

Well done Louise and good for them sorting you out with a replacement. Just shows you sometimes making the effort to complain about faulty goods does pay off.  Good luck with printing the threads I haven't done that yet but I'm about to follow you down the path on the Low Spec , my black PLA arrived today :) 

Jim 

Good luck to you too, Jim! I've printed most of the parts using PLA+ - seemed a good idea at the time! Of course, filament properties vary anyway. Most of it fitted together ok but had to do a bit of filing and emery papering. I'm into the last stages now - final assembly, but I need to get over the T2 thread problems. Trouble is, very small differences prevents being able to screw things in. Now the two T2 inserts, one for camera, one for telescope, might be better served by purchased metal ones. The threads would then be fine, but the outer diameter would be too small unless I could find 'bigger' ones. Don't know if they exist off the shelf… Standard female T2s would need an extra insert but that wouldn't be too difficult to do.  I slightly wish I had been able to modify the original design a bit but never mind. I'll post something in my Lowspec thread when I sort it :) I'm still waiting for lenses to arrive from surplus shed.

Louise

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Louise might be worth a look on Astroboot they sometimes have extension tubes of various sizes and threads or cheap eyepiece tubes that could be cannibalised - might be able to adapt something there. Alternatively what about a push fit with a compression ring like those used on Moonlite focusers. I guess I'll be up against the same problem further down the line.  Sorry , thread drift (no pun intended) :) 

Jim 

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3 minutes ago, saac said:

Louise might be worth a look on Astroboot they sometimes have extension tubes of various sizes and threads or cheap eyepiece tubes that could be cannibalised - might be able to adapt something there. Alternatively what about a push fit with a compression ring like those used on Moonlite focusers. I guess I'll be up against the same problem further down the line.  Sorry , thread drift (no pun intended) :) 

Jim 

Yeah, it's no problem getting T2 tubes - I bought a set off Ebay by 'svbony' quite cheap. I could use them but need inserts so they can fit in the holes in the design. I'm just trying another 3D printed T2 - if that doesn't work, I'll move to the metal tubes plus inserts. It's these two:

image.png.2e61ba7b62954c8e0b5fc476e771ea9e.png

As you can see, they are quite thick compared to a metal tube so metal tubes will need padding out with an insert but at least no printed thread involved. Oh, I've had the same problem with the Ovio slit holder...

Louise

 

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Ah I see it now, thanks Lousie.

Jim 

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Louise, are you printing the thread items with 0.1mm layers? I find I usually have to carefully clean the beginning of the threads (the part which was in contact with the bed of the printer). For male threads I also use a sharp point such as the end of a bradawl and carefully run it along the threads to clean up any irregularities. To clean the female threads I use a metal T2 insert from a camera and work it into the printed component. Sometimes I've had to twist the T2 a quarter turn into the component, unscrew it, then back in again for half a turn, and so on. Almost like using the metal T2 to cut the thread.

The threads are certainly the most difficult parts to print, especially with my old Prusa i3.

Eric.

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35 minutes ago, ejp1684 said:

Louise, are you printing the thread items with 0.1mm layers? I find I usually have to carefully clean the beginning of the threads (the part which was in contact with the bed of the printer). For male threads I also use a sharp point such as the end of a bradawl and carefully run it along the threads to clean up any irregularities. To clean the female threads I use a metal T2 insert from a camera and work it into the printed component. Sometimes I've had to twist the T2 a quarter turn into the component, unscrew it, then back in again for half a turn, and so on. Almost like using the metal T2 to cut the thread.

The threads are certainly the most difficult parts to print, especially with my old Prusa i3.

Eric.

Hi Eric

Yes, superfine in Cura. I've pretty much given up trying to print them for this project... It may be, as you say, to do with the thread start - I'll check that out when I get round to it. I have problems with my eyesight and can't see small things very well. In the meantime, I'm printing nice plain inserts so I can use metal T2 tubes instead. I think in the long run that'll probably be a good idea but nothing set in stone yet. I'll see what works :)

Thanks

Louise

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Very near to clicking 'buy' on an Ender 3 pro or maybe a bit more for the CR-10s??,  also think it might be fruitful to hang on for Black Friday 😋

Steve

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Threads must be by far the most difficult things you can print!!  Good luck.

Edited by Gina
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16 hours ago, Gina said:

Threads must be by far the most difficult things you can print!!  Good luck.

Hi Gina

I'm trying to avoid it as much as possible! Fusion 360 doesn't have an inbuilt M42 x 0.75 thread type so, as far as I know, the only way to do it from scratch, is to make one with the coil tool. Seems to work ok but that doesn't mean the printed result is good enough to mate with a purchased component, unfortunately. There must be some dark occult spell involved...

Louise

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18 hours ago, Gasman said:

Very near to clicking 'buy' on an Ender 3 pro or maybe a bit more for the CR-10s??,  also think it might be fruitful to hang on for Black Friday 😋

Steve

Ender 3 Pros are pretty much stock items and semi kits and rather cheap already, so unlikely to be discounted. I got mine from Amazon  :) 

Louise

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I've managed T2 threads, you need a good small vertical step and make sure the thread axis is vertical. If its too tight use the Cura facility for compensating for hole size to keep everything else in proportion.

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12 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

I've managed T2 threads, you need a good small vertical step and make sure the thread axis is vertical. If its too tight use the Cura facility for compensating for hole size to keep everything else in proportion.

Hi again Neil :)

Not sure what you mean by 'vertical'?? Not sure what you mean by 'compensating for hole size', either! I've kindof managed it by trial and error. I have been trying to modify existing T2 stl files. I've tried designing the parts from scratch in fusion 360 but there doesn't appear to be a standard thread available for m42 x 0.75, so I've tried to do it using the coil tool. Everything is always a bit hit and miss. I scaled one part (existing stl) by a factor of x1.001 and it just about fitted!

Thanks

Louise

ps I'm still a bit stuck trying to print a t2 lock ring properly:

image.png.f340889c1da2295bdd1c801da28a526f.png

As you can see, it's quite thin. The best I've been able to do is make it slightly small and click push it in!

Edited by Thalestris24
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5 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Hi again Neil :)

Not sure what you mean by 'vertical'?? Not sure what you mean by 'compensating for hole size', either! I've kindof managed it by trial and error. I have been trying to modify existing T2 stl files. I've tried designing the parts from scratch in fusion 360 but there doesn't appear to be a standard thread available for m42 x 0.75, so I've tried to do it using the coil tool. Everything is always a bit hit and miss. I scaled one part (existing stl) by a factor of x1.001 and it just about fitted!

Thanks

Louise

ps I'm still a bit stuck trying to print a t2 lock ring properly:

image.png.f340889c1da2295bdd1c801da28a526f.png

As you can see, it's quite thin. The best I've been able to do is make it slightly small and click push it in!

Any tips re the lock ring?

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9 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Any tips re the lock ring?

Not sure.

Horizontal expansion (try a negative setting is useful for getting sizes spot on)

image.png.c12bc8195aef2bab8e08a1cf5511507d.png

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1 minute ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Not sure.

Horizontal expansion (try a negative setting is useful for getting sizes spot on)

image.png.c12bc8195aef2bab8e08a1cf5511507d.png

Oh, didn't know you could do that! D'uh.. I'm still a green noob! But it still sounds like trial and error... Do you by any chance know a way of adding a T2 thread to Fusion 360? I have come across references to doing this via a file in a particular folder but I don't have the files/folders that were mentioned, so unable to take that further. Any ideas on that?

Thanks

Louise

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