Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

widotje

ASI1600MM Pro unboxing, cooling and dark frames test.

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Since a few days, I'm the proud owner of the asi1600 Pro.

Performed some first tests, see: https://youtu.be/hHJBbpNoi2I

 

I used SGP Pro to test cooling and dark frames (2m and 5m) on unity gain settings.

Is it ok to use unity gain (139) setting or should I use high dynamic range?

Also, this is my first mono. Do I need to take flats/bias frames for each filter separately?

And how could I stack either broadband or narrowband images? I'm used to deep sky stacker.

Cheers,

 

Wido

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, widotje said:

Hi all,

Since a few days, I'm the proud owner of the asi1600 Pro.

Performed some first tests, see: https://youtu.be/hHJBbpNoi2I

 

I used SGP Pro to test cooling and dark frames (2m and 5m) on unity gain settings.

Is it ok to use unity gain (139) setting or should I use high dynamic range?

Also, this is my first mono. Do I need to take flats/bias frames for each filter separately?

And how could I stack either broadband or narrowband images? I'm used to deep sky stacker.

Cheers,

 

Wido

I use 139 for almost everything. Its a good starting point.  2m for LRGB and 5m for narrow band is ok.

Dont use bias with a CMOS camera.

You will most likely do better with flats for each filter.

Adam

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Adam, Rob,

 

Thank you so much for the valuable information.

I'll try to take flats for each of the filters and make a dark library. 

And I'll check out Jon Rista's website. Thanks!

This will be my first advanture with a mono camera ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all

Just finished my first narrowband session imaging the Cresent nebula. Used a standard unity setting of 139. I'm really impressed by the h-alpha images. I started out with a simple workflow with the new zwo 7nm filters, using deepskystacker and Photoshop to create a combined image.

https://youtu.be/d75Aa_5NKUQ

This was my very first narrowband session...still have a lot to learn :-). Tips are welcome!

cresent_HA_OMG (1 van 1).jpg

IMG_20180902_130625_299.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like that you jumped straight in with a full tri-filter image :)

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Adam J said:

I like that you jumped straight in with a full tri-filter image :)

Hi Adam, 

Yes, I'm probably moving a bit fast and now I'm in over my head, haha.

have to learn how to process this stuff :-).

collected some more data and tweaked a bit more. Neutralised the stars by taking out the green colors. And added clarity to the surrounding nebulae. I'm amazed at the detail I get in my red zone. This is addictive.

cresent_HSO_Halpha2 (1 van 1).jpg

cresent_HSO_Halpha2 (1 van 1).jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Flats: The official answer is that you should do flats per filter. In truth I usually find that a luminance flat works for everything. On the rare occasions when it doesn't I do it properly!

Olly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By ntaylorblanchard
      Note on this issue: A suggestion from another forum seems to have found the problem but I'm not sure. It was suggested that after 3 hours my power tank was drained enough to inhibit the operation of the cooler. I attached my second (smaller) power tank and it seems to be working now. Of course the camera sat for awhile before I was given the idea that power was the issue and decided to try a test with a new power source.  If anyone has any additional information or suggestion for me they would be appreciated.  Original issue is below:
       
      HELP PLEASE! ASI294 MC Pro Stopped cooling Also have an image saving issue. I'll try to give as much detail as I can:
      Using APT with an ASI294 MC Pro - CAMERA IS NEW
      Cooler is powered by a Celestron Powertank 17 fully charged connected using an Orion DC cable w/Auto Lighter Plug
      Connecting via ASCOM ASI Camera 1 setting
      Properties are
      Image Type RAW 16
      Bayer RGGB
      Unity Gain
      Gain 120
      Offset 30
      USB limit 40
      The camera is plugged directly into the laptop NOT a USB hub. I believe all my laptops USB ports are USB 2.0
      No other software (such as PHD2) was running.
      No other cameras attached.

      Trying to create a dark library.
      Cooling to -5C from room temp of around 25-30C
      Camera and cooler were working fine for a couple of hours but I then ran into a snag:
       
      I got a time-out message from APT saying "Still waiting image from the camera - 30s" also -
      The cooling stopped working. (Red light indicating power is still on. Fan is still spinning.)
      I'm also noticing that the laptop is making the chime noise it makes when something is unplugged or plugged in.
       
      I tried connecting to the camera just using APT's ZWO camera setting with the same results.
      Black level and USB speed settings were left blank.
       
      Disconnecting and reconnecting everything seems to fix the problem only for a minute then I'm right back into the same problem. Changing USB ports does not help.
       
      I tried using ZWO's "ASI Studio" and I did not seem to have any problems capturing images but the cooler didn't seem to be working. (Power was = 100%)
      I tried using Sharpcap and did not seem to be able to do anything but I'm very unfamiliar with that software.
       
      I went back to APT and tried doing 10 lights exposures of 30 sec each with no power to the cooler. Those went ok. I then connected the cooler. The cooler cooled the camera down to 23.2C then stopped.
      Cooling Aid settings are
      Target -5
      Step 5
      Pause 5
      Timeout 120 (also tried timeout 300)
      Disconnected the cooler and ran another set of 10 30 sec light subs. These went ok. Tried set of 10 10 sec darks without cooler. This also went ok.
      I tried reinstalling the ASCOM drivers from the ASI site, restarted the laptop, restarted APT. Camera cooled from around 30C to 25.3C then stopped cooling (Red light indicating power is still on. Fan is still spinning.) I again started hearing the plugged/unplugged chimes from the laptop.
      So right now this seems to be some issue with the cooling. Is the camera defective?
      While I'm not computer illiterate, I'm not highly technical. I'd appreciate any help or advice but please put it into simple straightforward terms.
    • By Dave Baxter
      Just wondering what other people have experienced with this camera.  I'm using a MacBook Pro, and want to use this camera with my Celestron 8SE.  Primarily interested in the planets and the moon, but some deep sky images would be great if it's up to it.  

      It seems to be out of stock every where, but at $249 is about what I can afford to spend (no income at the moment).  All of the research I've been able to do on this camera indicates it should work well with my set up.
      I'm just curious if you have had any issues or problems.  Thanks in advance!
    • By Ronan Hunt
      Hi All,
      Im looking for preloved zwo asi 183mm Pro or 1600mm Pro and a zwo 8x1.25 inch EFW. Let me know if you have anything suitable. 

      Many Thanks,
      Ronan 
    • By Starbuddypal
      I'm trying to get a photo of Jupiter and Saturn with my Nikon D3000 DSLR but I can't get anything clear. I attached the kind of photos I'm getting with my camera. They end up being too bright and no distinguishable features show up. Is it even possible for my Nikon to get photos of planetary objects like Saturn and Jupiter?

    • By Michael Hogan
      Sony IMX294 4/3 CMOS Sensor Extremely low read noise - 1.2e @30db gain 14Bit ADC - provides real 14bit dynamic range Electronic shutter - no issues with vibrations sometimes found in mechanical shutters USB3.0 Port (back compatible with USB2.0) - 16fps@4144×2822 AR coated protective window - all light can pass Compatible with Windows / Mac OS / Linux LIKE NEW £750 FLO price with delivery is  £1,022.95 ill pay shipping getting ASI6200mc Pro why I'm selling camera is perfect.
      The camera will be shipped in box with all the extras
         
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.