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By R26 oldtimer
Can it be done? Without any programming skills?
Yes, it actually seems that way...
THIS WAS TESTED ON AN SW AZEQ5 mount which communicates with the handcontroller on a 3.3V TTL LOGIC.
CHECK YOUR MOUNT'S MANUAL FOR 3.3V compatibility (should be azeq5,azeq6,eq6rpro,eq8), although I suspect it will work with the other 5V TTL logic mounts since the DT-06 board appears to be 5V tolerant, but CAN'T CONFIRM
- DT-06 Wireless Serial TTL WiFi board
- RJ45 ethernet cable
-5v power supply (or 4x1.2v AA batteries)
First, take the ethernet cable and cut it in half. Strip the cables and identify the cables to the corresponding pins. Then I consulted SW azeq5's user manual hand control port's pinout.
In my case the pinout is as follows:
pin1: orange-white ---- ground
pin2: orange ----not used
pin3: green-white ----not used
pin4: blue ---- ground
pin5: blue-white ----mount Tx to controller Rx
pin6: green ----mount Rx to controller Tx
pin7: brown-white ----- +11 to+16 V
pin8: brown ----- +11 to+16 V
Then I connected the orange-white & blue cables to the DT-06 Wireless Serial TTL WiFi board's ground pin,
the blue-white cable to the DT-06 Wireless Serial TTL WiFi board's Rx pin,
the green cable to the DT-06 Wireless Serial TTL WiFi board's Tx pin,
and a 5V power supply to the DT-06 Wireless Serial TTL WiFi board's ground & Vcc pins (or 4x1.2v AA batteries) , I 've ordered a buck stepdown converter to utilize the +11 to+16 V from pins 7&8 to power the module, but for now I just wanted to make sure it works!
Now that the hardware connections are done, we move on to the settings.
Power the module and a led will confirm it's on. It is on AP mode so scan with your phone for wifi, and you 'll see something like DoitWiFi_xxxx. Connect to it (no password was set on mine).
Open your browser and type 192.168.4.1 , this will take you to the Built-in WebServer where you set the parameters for the module.
You will see three tabs: "status", "module", & "more"
From the "module" tab's dropdown menu, select "serial" and enter the values : baud rate:9600, databits:8, parity: none, stopbits:1, serial split timeout : 200. Click save.
From the "module" tab's dropdown menu, select "wifi". Here you can change the SSID name (I put Synscan), and set a password if you like (I don't). Click save.
From the "module" tab's dropdown menu, select "networks". Change the "socket type" to UDP server, and assign UDPserver port to "11880". Click save.
Then from the "more" tab's dropdown menu, select restart. Now you 'll have to re-join the network under the SSID name you 've given.
I 've only encountered some connection problems related with the serial split timeout. I found a stable connection when I set it at 200ms at the module's Built-in WebServer, and 400ms as the Readtimeout on the synscan app.
That's it, you 're set to go.
Download synscan pro app and skysafari plus or pro and I 'll post the settings in those apps in my next post.
Starting my 1st IOT project. Since i've been an astrophotographer with no permanent setup, it makes sense to reduce the physical footprint (and the weight) of as many equipment as possible, as well as to do better cable management. I am soon going to start using Astroberry Pi server, an Ubuntu based suite for Astrophotography. Just purchased a Raspberry Pi 3B along with a 3.5" display for that. Lets see how it goes.
I have Skywatcher Synscan V3 working with my EQ6 without problem.
I've lately flashed firmware v.3.39.05 and tried using it with my Skywatcher Virtuoso. I have problem with 2-star alignment. After manually move the mount to point to the first bright star, align; then choose the 2nd alignment star, the mount will slew to the sky very far away from the 2nd star. After I managed to complete the 2-star alignment successfully, the goto accuracy was very bad. It always placed my scope quite far away from the targets. I've tried the whole night and gave up.
I then begin to wonder whether I have to flash the hand controller with the firmware for Allview mount (v.3.09.06) instead. Anyone can share your experience on this?
I continue to get my Star Adventure to perform better.
One very big problem if you have a camera that you can not tilt the display at, no tiltable display. I have the Canon 6D. It's almost impossible to see the display and do settings when the camera aim upwards to the zenith. I have until now used a very tall tripod, but that is something very big and not so friendly when travel.
Instead of buying a new camera I now test to use an app in my smart phone and used that to see the display in live view from the camera.
I have written a tutorial in an early stage of how I do that:
I will correct and add more information when I get more experience from this.
I'm sure most of you alreday have done this, my concern is, how hot will the camera be. I have bad experience from this from earlier test with live view.
I need the combined brains and experience of SGL please, I'm stuck!!
I've been an astronomer for 30+ years and have had several Skywatcher telescopes over time, including my current EQ6-Pro for about 10 years. This is largely irrelevant to my post, except that I hope to convey that I'm not a total novice to getting telescopes to work as they should...although I feel like I am today.
I recently picked up a very battered early-version EQ6 with 10" reflector, cheap. It hadn't been looked after well and when I first fired it up...it didn't fire up at all. No life. I noticed that the power supply wasn't suitable as it only had a 0.5A output. So after digging out a spare one from the cupboard outputting 12V 1.25A, the Synscan chirped into life.
My first attempt to slew the mount was met with a horrible grinding noise and refusal to move. Needless to say, I didn't do that again. Clearly the motor/gear train was seized. So a quick look on the internet brought up the amazing website posted by Astro Baby, with step by step instructions on how to strip and rebuild an EQ5 or EQ6 mount. This kept me entertained for a couple of nights, followed by a lovely smooth running mount slewing in RA and DEC as it should. Many thanks Astro Baby!
Last night was the first clear night, so I took the mount out, popped the 10" scope on (had a full respray, new finder, new focuser and laser collimation), and awaited the fall of darkness. Here comes the rub.
I roughly aligned the mount on Polaris, not bothering too much for this first test. The Synscan controller is (unfortunately) running Version 2.05, which is one of the early versions that are not flash upgradable. Although I didn't realise this until after I had downloaded all of the upgrade files from OVL's website. 🙄
When I picked the first alignment star (Capella, rising nicely in the north-east sky), the mount did something completely unexpected and slewed around to east of the meridian and pointed somewhere in the direction of Alcor! What the ...? After several unsuccessful attempts at carrying out an alignment, I gave up and looked online for any similar problems. I've checked and confirmed all of the following things are correct:
Location - yep as per my Cumbria coordinates Date - yep in the right format (mm/dd/yyyy) that good old confusing American format Time - yep I tried with BST and without BST (not really expecting any significant difference) Made sure the mount was in the "parked" position (weights down, scope pointing towards Polaris) before turning the mount on Tried all sorts of initial alignment stars, but none of them were in the right area of the sky at all Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find anything on the web that offers a solution.
I did wonder if I've done something during the disassembly of the mount - but I know the mount doesn't have encoders on it. I didn't see anything that looked like a counter of any kind?
I don't think it can be anything to do with the power supply...surely that couldn't introduce such a wild error in pointing? It's like the handset has no idea where it is.
Any help would be much appreciated. This was going to be a second mount for me, but at this rate it's going to go on the scrap heap.
I did think about buying a V3 handset, but didn't want to commit another £120 in case it's something in the mount itself that's the problem.