2" 3d eyepiece extension tube

[Atreta]

Hi everyone,

I was trying to find a shorter 2" extension tube to use with my 130pds and the gso coma corretor, it looks like to lack about 30-35mm of an extension to reach focus from the eyepiece holder to the camera. A friend of mine bought a 3d printer so i thought about making one and he would print it for me.

this is my first time trying to make a 3d design, so it may have a lot of mistakes like aligning, hole sizes, etc, so I need some help from you guys and girls  .

here is the link for it: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/k0eLfcMH3iu-eyepiece-extension-tube  will it fit ok inside the 130pds focuser? 

any help will be much appreciated, thank you.

edit: i forgot to make the holes for the locking screws, will add it later.

[Chriske]

Hi,

Keep in mind that it will take you a few testprints before the correct one leaves the printer. You don't wont any play at all.
Depending what material you will be printing you'll end up with a tube that will not fit or maybe to thin.

I always print adaptor rings that fit my barrel very precisely, there's no play at all, as it should be.

[Atreta]

Thanks for the reply, the problem is that he lives a bit far from here. It ook the measures from the extension tube that came with the 130pds..

[Atreta]

I did some editing to make the inside and outer faces more round and added four screw holes too.

My friend will print it for me and we'll see how it works out.

[Chriske]

7 hours ago, Atreta said:

 more round ...???

Could you explain that a bit more...

[Atreta]

4 hours ago, Chriske said:

Could you explain that a bit more...

There was some flat faces in the old design, looking like rectangles. I watched a tutorial teaching how to get a better looking cylinder. 

It was like this: 

This is the video I used as reference: 

 

[PeterW]

Round things need to be made with LOTS of facets so the print comes out smooth and not facetted. This is down to the CAD to STL conversion. I would print the tubes deliberately with about 0.6mm or so clearance, to allow for print errors so you’re not stuck trying to sand it out to fit!! Then you can add small strips of gorilla tape to the tube to get the snug fit you are looking for. 

 

PEter

[Atreta]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

I would print the tubes deliberately with about 0.6mm or so clearance, to allow for print errors so you’re not stuck trying to sand it out to fit!! 

I made a mistake converting from inches to mm, i confused cm with mm and made the top diameter 50.08 instead of 50.8. The printed piece wouldn't fit at all and i spent a good amount of time to try to sand it. Not a fun thing to do :). 

I redid the draw to allow a bit of more room. Nice suggestion of using the tape to make it to fit. 

Thanks.