Specifications

[Carbon Brush]

Usually when we buy anything, it meets a specification that the manufacturer publishes.

The specifications include minimum and maximum operating and storage temperature.
Mains or battery powered equipment includes minimum and maximum operating voltages.

Strangely, astronomy related equipment seems to be devoid of limits on use - or at least much of the kit I have looked at.
Is this an excuse for manufacturers to avoid the consequences of performance issues?
Do we care?
Are we so hung up on arcesconds and magnification that we forget electrical issues?

For example a goto mount might be described as 12V powered.
Does that mean if it scrambles it's memory or stops working when my leisure battery drops 11.9V, I have no comeback on the manufacturer?
If I run a lead from a running car (14V-ish) to help out my battery and fry the electronics, is that operating too far from 12V?
I note that a new Skywatcher mount does specify 11-16V, well done. But many others say nothing.

The same sort of comments apply when using gear on a cold night, or a hot day.
Solar tracking in 30C heat and the motors stop?
Tracking at -10C and the handset stops working?

I would be very interested to hear others views and experiences on this.

 

[SkyGibbon]

 I always add on or take away 25 - 50% from any manufacturers specs dealing with amperage, mount weight capacity, temperature specs, longevity. But, that is just me.  When it comes to d.c. power, I will keep the voltage specs, but up the amperage specs. Solved two different mounts with issues, just by doing this. When it comes to weight, I feel comfortable at 50% specced mount load at most. Cold temps, no problem for me. Heat, I don't even try. Heat index of 110f as I type this. Most list certain specs, but I think they rely on user experience and certain issues are going to be a given at extreme temps.

 As far as holding manufacturers to their specs, you can try, and I am sure some will refund you. But, I tend to try most the troubleshooting myself, as I , believe it or not, like that type of stuff and tend to find it is was the quality of my power supplies, or cables that were the issue. Of course, I wont do any board repair, and will just send those in to the manufacturer or legit repair service. Dedicated power supplies, nice gauged power cables, with quality connectors have always solved my issues as far as power goes. I really dont need them to tell me what a voltage drop might do, I just have to figure out what is causing it.