New to CCD - Qs - dark library? Attachment to FF?

[tooth_dr]

I took the plunge and bought a used Atik 383L+ mono camera.  I've been a DSLR imager since I started out, and am comfortable with imaging with that type of kit.  I'm sure that this wont present me with too many issues, but I want to try to get as much info as possible.  I done a few searches on the forum and google, over the past two days.

 

I havent plugged the camera into the computer yet, but I installed the up-to-date Atik drivers, and had a look at the Artemis interface.

Is the first logical step to build a dark and bias library?  Would this be best done in APT, as it uses suitable file names, and it is what I use for image capture?

Do you then create master darks and master bias frames, and just save these?  Which do you use when stacking darks and bias in DSS - average, median, kappa sigma, etc?

 

JLukin kindly pointed me the right direction of variable spacers, so I have a set ordered off my local retailer, whom I am meeting at the weekend to collect.  This will allow me to connect the camera directly onto the SW 0.85FF on my ED80.

I have no plans to buy an electronic FW just at the minute due to cost, so would there be any way to integrate a 1.25" filter into the imaging train with my ED80?  I have a 1.25" Baader UV-IR filter that I could use?

 

Or should I buy a manual filter wheel?  But how would that attach to the ED80 FF?

 

Thanks in advance, and appreciate any input!

Adam.

 

 

 

 

 

[tooth_dr]

This is how I attach my FF to the ED80, via a Baader Clicklock.

 

 

[Adam J]

I would just get hold of the person you purchased it from and ask him to drop his dark library onto a DVD for you and send with the camera.

I think that you will find that the ATIK 383l+ needs filters that are larger than 1.25 inch. Others may correct me but I think you need 36mm or 2 inch filers with that camera.

 

[Davey-T]

I wouldn't worry about calibration frames until you've got something to calibrate.

Filter size depends how close the filter is to the sensor, the closer the better, 8300 sensor cameras with integrated wheels can usually manage with 1.25 or unmounted 31mm filters, separate wheels will need 36mm filters.

The most useful filter to get would be an HA one

Dave

 

[spillage]

I would stick with APT for calibration frames. I just use my L filter calibration frames and have not bothered with the other filters. I use deepskystacker which will produce a master flat,dark and bias which I keep and dump the other files. But then I am lazy.

 

Sure the sw ff has a M48 female to make sure the wheel has the M48 male, but not 100%.

 

Mark.

[Adam J]

9 hours ago, spillage said:

I would stick with APT for calibration frames. I just use my L filter calibration frames and have not bothered with the other filters. I use deepskystacker which will produce a master flat,dark and bias which I keep and dump the other files. But then I am lazy.

 

Sure the sw ff has a M48 female to make sure the wheel has the M48 male, but not 100%.

 

Mark.

I attempted to use Luminescence flats for RGB before and it left a blotchy background to the image. 

[Jkulin]

Hi Adam,

I can indeed send/upload the dark library I used, however it doesn't take much to create a library, just time, my new camera arrived on Friday and I started last night creating my dark library with 60s, 120s, 180s, 240s, 300s, 450s, 600s, 750s, 900s, 1200s darks @ -20, I take 30 of each and I have left my laptop churning away in my dining room for the next 40 hours, I do this every 6 months and create a new library, for the Atik I did them all at -15

Give me a shout if I can help.

[tooth_dr]

1 hour ago, Jkulin said:

Hi Adam,

I can indeed send/upload the dark library I used, however it doesn't take much to create a library, just time, my new camera arrived on Friday and I started last night creating my dark library with 60s, 120s, 180s, 240s, 300s, 450s, 600s, 750s, 900s, 1200s darks @ -20, I take 30 of each and I have left my laptop churning away in my dining room for the next 40 hours, I do this every 6 months and create a new library, for the Atik I did them all at -15

Give me a shout if I can help.

Thanks John, I didnt want to hassle you with too many questions.

I started imaging last night, cooled to -15oC, and took 50 subs at 60s, 120s, 180s, and 240s.  It was just finishing this morning when got up so I warmed it up and turned all off.  Will resume this evening again.  I was concerned about light getting into the chip, even though I have the metal cap on.  I'm guessing that it doesnt matter about light in the room around the camera?

[Jkulin]

Hi Adam,

I too worry about light getting into the chip, even though it is protected with a metal cover.

I just leave mine in the dining room with the curtains pulled and a warning to everyone not to switch the lights on.

I wouldn't shut down, I would just leave the whole lot running until it has finished, I still have 28 hours to go!!!

BTW 30 subs is perfectly enough, I do however take 100 bias frames

Regards,

John