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cjdawson

ZWO Peltier Cooler

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Hi everyone.

I'm in the process of building a cooler for my ZWO ASI-290MM camera.

Here's a link to the post that I'm writing about it on my blog

https://cjdawson.com/2018/05/22/peltier-cooler-for-my-telescope-imaging-camera/

 

I'm following the ideas from the two youtube videos as it looks like a good design.   That said, I'm wanting to improve on it.

This is the part where this post comes in.

 

So the plan is that there will be 6 wires that link the cooler to it's controller.   I would like to have a small but sturdy connector.   My first thought was to use the connectors that are used for PCI Express graphics cards - They're 6 pin, rated for 5A and have a locking tab, and they're quite small.

I was wondering if there was any kind of connector that would be a better option?   The PCI Express sockets don't look like they're easy to panel mount.   Ideally, I'd like to be able to bolt it to the aluminium plate, and not have to have a plastic project box.

 

What I do know is that the plug and socket do need to be able to cope with 5A of current. (I'm using 3.3 amp peltier, but want headroom to be safe)

 

Any ideas?

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Interesting project... how much does the DIY cooler cost?

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Posted (edited)

I use these for multipole connectors, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GX16-Aviation-Cable-Connector-2-10pin-Male-Plug-Female-Socket-Connectors-G/132562656865?hash=item1edd599e61:m:mWQqEcpHYCrLL5x9KUxlVMA, they are also rated @ 5A per contact, and as they are polarised & lockable, no problem fumbling around in the dark. They are easy to mount as the socket is circular.

Edited by Dr_Ju_ju

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32 minutes ago, Dr_Ju_ju said:

I use these for multipole connectors, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GX16-Aviation-Cable-Connector-2-10pin-Male-Plug-Female-Socket-Connectors-G/132562656865?hash=item1edd599e61:m:mWQqEcpHYCrLL5x9KUxlVMA, they are also rated @ 5A per contact, and as they are polarised & lockable, no problem fumbling around in the dark. They are easy to mount as the socket is circular.

That'll do.  They'll lock and they're not likely to get confused with anything else.   Might be able to mount directly to the aluminuim plate, or to a project box - whichever I think will look better when completed.

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36 minutes ago, ChrisEll said:

Interesting project... how much does the DIY cooler cost?

2mm*100mm*100mm plate = £4.85

TES1-12704 30mm*30mm  = £3.33

DC 12V W1209WK Digital thermostat Temperature Smart Control Sensor -50-110°C = £3.40

10 Pack M3 M3.5 M4 M5 M6 NYLON (Plastic)COUNTERSUNK(CSK)Philips Hd Screws(Bolts) = £1.25    (M4)

New AVC CPU Quiet Cooler Heatsink For AMD FM2/FM1/AM3/AM2/940/939 Desktop PC = £9.60

 

The TES1-12704 is the cooler itself.

The W1209WK thingy, is a module for setting the temperature of the cooler, and monitoring the actual temperature of the cooler.

 

The idea is to make a sandwhich,   Fan, Heatsink, TES1-12704, Alu plate, camera.

 

The M4 plastic screws will hold the plate to the camera.

I've got m2 threaded rod, nuts and washers on order.  This will hold the sandwhich together.

I'll use a couple of GX-16's from ebay (they're on order now)  to make the cables have connectors rather than dangling around.

Then I'll need a project box, and a locking DC connector.   Finally a cigar plug, or maybe something else for my setup (it's a long story)

 

I'd expect to be able to complete this project for less than £30 ish.  and once done, should be able to get the camera to cool to about 0 degrees.

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I'll be Interested to see how you get on. I've tried a similar project, but with a 6amp cooler and no temp control and it's overwhelming the heatsink. Might try to borrow some ideas from here! 😀

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Here’s a picture of my rough plan.

the 2mm plate will screw onto the camera.   Then the heat sink will sandwich the cooler.  The heat sink has an 80mm cpu fan, which I’m hoping will be enough to keep a 3 amp,cooler under control.   Should work from the YouTube video.

C4D6D3EE-391C-41AA-B3D2-A0236A9811A6.thumb.jpeg.977b2ac348bd8e74743f3ee7a3a3dbaf.jpeg

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Why the square plate ? All you are doing there is sucking convective heat from the surroundings.

Get rid of it, and surround the peltier with insulation to ensure you are cooling the back of the chip only. It will make a big difference. High density pu foam is good.

M

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I'm using the square plate for 2 jobs.

1. it will act as a cold sync

2. it gives me something to use to bind the unit together.     The Heatsink is 80mm across, where as the camera holes are 39mm.   I need something to provide the structure.

As for PU foam.   I've already got some and some glue.  I didn't mention that part yet.   My plan is to place some either side of the "cold sink" and wrap the camera too.  This will help the unit to work better as it'll not be trying to cool area outside the foam.

That's something that I'm going to decide exactly how it will appear once I've got the basic parts in place.

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I use Peltier cooling on the ZWO ASI185MC camera in my all sky cam.  Mostly insulated by the 3D printed casing round the camera but also some PU foam.  I use a 19W 5v TEC.  Cooling the hot side is via the aluminium mast.

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"aluminium mast."     I understood everything up to that point, what do you mean by Aluminium mast?

I'd love a 3d printed casing, but don't have access to a 3d printer, or enough knowledge to make one.

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Aluminium pipe used as a mast to hold the ASC up above the roof of my observatory.

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@1CM69   YES!     I saw that page before, and I'm looking to end up with something very similar.

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@1CM69

Been thinking about this, and have been thinking about the design.   I love the one in the instructable the best and want to build it, complete with my improvement of being able to detach the cable - means I can leave the camera on the scope.

Have most of the parts, however My aluminium isn't big enough.  Also I don't have the block.

 

I have no idea about getting the aluminium parts laser cut.  Could you recommend somewhere to get that done?

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16 minutes ago, cjdawson said:

@1CM69

Been thinking about this, and have been thinking about the design.   I love the one in the instructable the best and want to build it, complete with my improvement of being able to detach the cable - means I can leave the camera on the scope.

Have most of the parts, however My aluminium isn't big enough.  Also I don't have the block.

 

I have no idea about getting the aluminium parts laser cut.  Could you recommend somewhere to get that done?

If you’re in the UK, I recommend LaserMaster: https://www.lasermaster.co.uk/

You can upload your design for a quote & also purchase square or circular pieces of various sizes & thicknesses. 

Outside the UK, I have no idea. 

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58 minutes ago, 1CM69 said:

If you’re in the UK, I recommend LaserMaster: https://www.lasermaster.co.uk/

You can upload your design for a quote & also purchase square or circular pieces of various sizes & thicknesses. 

Outside the UK, I have no idea. 

hehe.  Surely you mean, I can upload "your" design :D

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30 minutes ago, cjdawson said:

hehe.  Surely you mean, I can upload "your" design :D

Improvements/tweaks excepted, remember to share 😉🙂

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I'm looking forward to the parts arriving.  Have some bits already, but decided to change to the same cooler as your design and to use your templates.    The only real difference is the addition of the sockets for the cable from the cooler to the controller.  The rest is pretty much going to stay as you did it.

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It's begun, the new cooler arrived today.  First impression is that the Arctic Alpine is a much better unit than the heatsink that I was going to use before.  decided to get a fan extension cable, so that if I ever need to replace the cooler, I can simply unplug and plug in a new module.

Speaking of that, I've not tried powering it up yet, would I be right in thinking that I can simply leave both the Sense and PWM pins control open circuit?

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Having just read through the instructable again, I think it's ok to leave the PWM open circuit - it was mentioned in the text.

 

There is one thing that is more clear to me.  Where exactly does the temperature sensor go?   Haven't figured that out yet.

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Scrub that, found that too.

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1 hour ago, cjdawson said:

Scrub that, found that too.

Glad you’re figuring it out. 

Once you have built it could I ask if you could hit the ‘I Made This’ button on the instructable please & you can also upload pics there, plus any tips you have or changes you implemented. 

Cheers

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@1CM69 I'm indending to hit the I made this button, and include the details of the changes.    Think the biggest deviation is that I'm probably going to make the 40*40 block 7mm thick instead of 6, that way the CPU cooler will be a tight fit even without needing to modify the connection bracket.

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