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Mak 150 or ED80?


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I’m thinking about trading my Mak for an ED80.

I originally bought the Mak about 3 years ago as I was getting very good views of planets and the brighter DSOs but I’m finding more and more I’m using my ST80 for general viewing and am starting to get more into AP and DSOs which I know the ED80 will be great at.

My main problem at the moment is we now live in a more light plolluted area and views are mainly northwards, so would I still be able to get some reasonable AP work done in that scenario and also use the ED80 for planet views/stacking when they come better into view... or should I just stick with the Mak with more limited AP capability?

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A thought if you have a modded camera, you could dabble with the idea using your ST80 and a NB filter (I'm getting better at nailing chromatic aberration using Startools as I don't do NB) and see if you get enough opportunity in your location and test the waters.

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42 minutes ago, happy-kat said:

A thought if you have a modded camera, you could dabble with the idea using your ST80 and a NB filter (I'm getting better at nailing chromatic aberration using Startools as I don't do NB) and see if you get enough opportunity in your location and test the waters.

Yeah, that’s sort of where my head is at cos the ST80 is a great little scope. I don’t have a modded camera but I’m starting to get the hang of it now and have also just started a trial with StarTools so will see how it goes. The filter sounds a good idea - does that help visually too?

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For best results from StarTools when using DSS tick autosave FITS file and don't tick align RGB channels. If using a DSLR I'm getting better results with lights, flats and dark flats. No bias and no darks.

There's a short way to remove CA and a slightly longer way but  the latter it yields better results. The startools forum is useful for loads of tips and information the guides by Guy are very helpful.

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1 hour ago, happy-kat said:

For best results from StarTools when using DSS tick autosave FITS file and don't tick align RGB channels. If using a DSLR I'm getting better results with lights, flats and dark flats. No bias and no darks.

There's a short way to remove CA and a slightly longer way but  the latter it yields better results. The startools forum is useful for loads of tips and information the guides by Guy are very helpful.

Dark flats? How do you take those then? :)

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