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I'm having a bit of a clearout to make way for a new project. For sale here are a couple of items that have seen very litle use:
1) Celestron Omni CG-4 GEM Mount + Tripod - £125 *** SOLD ***
This is in generally very good condition. There are a few marks, and scuffs consistent with normal use. There are also a couple of minor (small) patches of surface rust on a few of the bolts and steel legs. It has seen very litle use, and has been in storage for the past few years so it is time to find it a good home. The small rubber tips that go on the very end of the feet have perished, so these won't be included.
It includes tubular steel tripod, 2 counterweights, built in polar scope, built in bubble level and slow motion controls.
Due to size and weight, collection would be preferred from the RG27 area. If you are reasonably local, I would also consider delivering.
Price: £125, but I am open to offers. Payment can be made via Bank Transfer (preferred), Paypal or cash on collection
2) ***SOLD*** Celestron Omni XLT 127mm Telescope ***SOLD ***
Again this is in very good condition, and has been in storage for the past few years and has had very little overall use. A few marks on the dovetail as is to be expected.
It includes a small finderscope, diagonal and a 25mm eyepiece
Can be collected from the RG27 area, I could deliver if you are reasonably local, or can be posted for an additional £8.
Price: £110, but am open to offers. Payment can be made via Bank Transfer (preferred), Paypal or cash on collection *** NOW SOLD ***
Any questions please do let me know.
I popped this topic on CN too but noone seems to know anything.
I came by an old Celestron Ultima 8 pre-PEC. I really like the scope and the mount it may be that I have read too much of Uncle Rod's and other's praise that I feel this scope has some intangible personality and charm.
Circuitry in the base seems to work fine even though the batteries don't hold charge but drive the Ra axis . I have 2 replacement on its way to me.
Now my issue: It didn't come with a hand controller. I know it is not needed for tracking, and I don't have a Dec motor but I find it would be useful for centering in RA and D.A.R.V. method drift alignment.
I was on the verge of making a crude controller out of veroboard and 4 momentary switches that I thought to be correct from the info on various sites, but then I came across an Ultima 8 project that clearly showed the hand controller for my scope.
The pic attached is the one.
I am looking for help on how the dial and buttons are wired in and/or photos of the innards of the hand controller or if anyone knows what else is inside the handbox.
The sources I was going on so far is a combination of the following 3 links:
These of course don't include drive rate rotary switch in the middle and if I could I would really like to to restore the full ability of this mount without spending too much on electronics. Plus I don't want to spend time and effort on wiring something that doesn't work.
Oh and lastly I have no background or experience in electronics just own a soldering station and a whole lot of determination.
Thanks in advance
I am selling a JMI focus motor for Meade SCT's.
It has a replacement controller as the original was lost many years ago. Works fine on a LX200.
Asking £40 for complete unit and controller plus £5 if you need it posted.
***************** SOLD ******************
It's an ED80 with the stock focuser. I think there is some astigmatism somewhere as my stars can be a little stretched and so I want to see if I can use a collimating laser to check if the focuser is in straight. (I'm also going to make a determined effort to get the spacing right between the FF//FR and the sensor, but that's another story). I can't see any threads that get into the detail of lining up the focuser with a laser.
If I put the laser in with the target bit facing up, then the red dot that bounces back off of the lens is slightly off centre on the target on the collimator. If I loosen the screws, turn through 90deg, retighten and look again, then the red dot is in a different place and so on all the way through 360 deg. I'm thinking that the red dot should be central (as when collimating a Dob that I used to have). Is that right?
It may be that the laser needs collimating, but I'm not sure how to do that.
Any advice on whether this approach is going to get me anywhere would be appreciated.
I thought I would share how I fixed my sloppy rack and pinion focuser on Skywatcher 130p.
The issue? When using or collimating the slop in the focuser would put the target or centre dot way out of line.
With the tube tilted downward I removed the 4 screws/nuts of the focuser to remove it from the OTA.
Loosen the lock and 2 adjusting screws, I used a small torx screwdriver as i did't have an allen key small enough.
Remove the 4 screws holding the adjuster bar in place, and remove the adjuster.
Note: Be careful to avoid the very sticky grease used on the drive!
Remove the draw tube assembly, remove the lock/adjusting shim located at the top of the main body.
There were 2 plastic shims 1 each side of the drive I removed both of them.
Thoroughly clean everything with degreaser and isopropyl alcohol except the drive itself.
I cut 2 plastic shims from food packaging, cleaned them, and using 50mm double sided tape I lined out the main focuser body. Be careful to cut to the correct size and shape before installing and don't cover the drive or lock/adjusting shim areas.
Next using teflon tape purchased from eBay I covered the draw tube exterior.
I then did the same covering the plastic shims in the main body.
It was still a little loose so I doubled the teflon tape at the top of the tube either side of the adjusting shim.
Next I added a plastic shim onto the adjuster shim and covered with teflon tape.
Put it all back together and almost no slack!
I can now move the focuser from fully in to fully out without the collomation moving out of the centre ring on the primary.
Complete success I think.