Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_beauty_night_skies.thumb.jpg.2711ade15e31d01524e7dc52d15c4217.jpg

Kyuzumaki

Cooled CCD advice

Recommended Posts

I have a simple question that I've not been able to answer myself about cooling..

Does it actually help if the ambient temperature is already very low?

My last two or three times out using my camera the air temperature has been below -1 deg C and as low as -4 from the cameras inbuilt sensor. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is the temperature of the chip that is important.

If the ambient temperature is already low (eg -4), the cooler has to work less hard to keep it at a low fixed point (eg -30).

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It also helps when you have sensor temperature constant during session and shooting calibration frames. Without regulated cooling sensor temperature changes with ambient temperature. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you set a temperature for your CCD that can be reached all year round then you can shoot a calibration frames library that will last for quite a while and make life easier for you.... so if you make some bias frames at -15 now and all year round you keep running at the same temperature, you  can use your bias frames (darks and flats too) for a while :) 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks! ok I understand so its the consistency of cooling as well as the degree of cooling. I also though -04 or so was good it seems -15 to -30 is more the order of cooling thats being used.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Kyuzumaki said:

Thanks! ok I understand so its the consistency of cooling as well as the degree of cooling. I also though -04 or so was good it seems -15 to -30 is more the order of cooling thats being used.

Depends on the individual CCD / CMOS and its doubling temperature. For example the asi1600mmc has a low doubling temperature of 4c and the ASI183mm has a doubling temperature of 10c. So it much more important to cool the 1600. The main thing however is that the calibration is taken at the same temp to enable accurate calibration requiring set point cooling. 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m using an entry level cmos ZWO ASI120mm. So far I’m impressed it’s done better than my dslr! 

Thinking of making a peltier cooler myself to at least keep the temperature consistent. Still not decided on how to control the peltier cooler, was thinking n-channel mosfet, arduino and custom firmware

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By LuminousCRO
      I was looking to get into astrophotography with my 10 inch dobson and for start would like to buy something affordable. Cameras can be used or new. Thanks in advance!
    • By masjstovel
      Hi,
      I bought my first telescope, SW 150pds about 6 months ago with the purpose of astroimaging "when i feel ready".  So far ive used my Nikon D810 for that, and I'm now  planning on taking the step buying my first AP camera.
      My targets would be DSO's, and not planetary. I want a mono-camera, not color. 

      I want to get away with a very good camera to a reasonable price (wouldn't we all...) and in this regard I've been drooling on the ZWO ASI 1600MM Mono for some time. The price for it is in the upper part of my budget, but I'm willing to if its worth it.  I've seen from other treads that sensor-size isn't everything, and dynamic range and gain and all is just as important, but i have trouble understanding it all 100% when it's all new to me, but in my experience i am a practical person who learns things much better and faster with the gear in my hand. So without getting to technical, and staying as objective as possible - please help me with; 

      1. Is this a good camera to go for?
      2. It's sold with options of filters 1.25", 31mm or 36mm - Why these options, and what determines what i would choose?

      3. Would you go for another camera in this price range, and why? - Or to rephrase it a bit; If you were in my shoes, which camera would you og for?

      I'd appreciate any help:)

      I might add, that i understand that with my lack of experience, buying a mono-camera with filters and all might seem premature, but for some strange reason. I enjoy these "way over my head"-projects and figuring  out things as time goes - I just need some guiding in the right direction. 
    • By Matt Dawson
      Hello I'm new to this forum, greetings from rainy Luxembourg.
      I see this subject has been well covered already but I have a specific situation I need help with. I have a f/3.67 20" (508mm) Newtonian,coupled with a TS-Optics Coma Corrector 0.73x Reducer,  and an Apogee U4000 CCD (chip size 15.2mm x 15.2mm). I understand I need an over sized secondary to take full advantage of this f/2.7 super fast setup, but exactly what size secondary should I order? This setup has disadvantages that I cannot change like unforgiving collimation and focus (and some coma), but this is the one thing I can change for optimum performance. Can anyone tell me how to calculate this or, better still, calculate it for me?
      Cheers,
      Matt Dawson, Luxembourg
    • By Gib007
      THIS ITEM HAS NOW BEEN SOLD.
      This listing is for my personal camera (Kayron from Light Vortex Astronomy). It is a QSI 660wsg-8 monochrome CCD camera with the onboard 8-position filter wheel and Off-Axis Guider (OAG).
      The camera has been extremely well kept and cared for. I am supplying them in the original QSI pelican case, alongside the power adapter (with EU and UK plugs), a new USB cable, the QSI Allen wrench set, the 2" adapter for the camera and the guiding cable. The camera's condition is as-new.
      The QSI 660wsg-8 requires a single USB connection to control both imaging and the filter wheel. It also cools to -45°C below ambient temperature. The CCD sensor is Sony's ICX694, which is extremely low noise requiring no darks whatsoever and having peak Quantum Efficiency of 77%. The readout noise is also extremely low at only 3.97e as per my own measurement. Its full well capacity is of 17,719e, also as per my own measurement. For more information, please see QSI's website:
      https://qsimaging.com/products/600-series/qsi-660/
      Please note that this camera currently retails at just over £3,700 from UK suppliers, €4,400 from European suppliers or $4,200 from US suppliers. Payment is preferred via bank transfer but PayPal is OK with an extra 2.9% to cover PayPal fees. I'll cover postage to you via tracked Courier.
      I welcome any questions you may have regarding this listing. Thank you for looking.





×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.