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Hi everyone, just looking to get into astrophotography but looking at a DSLR as I'd like to use it for daytime use too, I know usually it's better for them to be modified but I've seen this can be done to allow use for both with only white balance adjustment.
I've seen 1300d's going around £200 on eBay with the 18-55mm lens but the 4000d is a couple of years newer and there is currently one with 18-55mm + 75-300mm going for £350 at Currys. From what I can work out there isn't much difference between them besides a smaller screen on the 4000d and the release date. I'm just wondering if there is some reason people go for the 1300d instead or is it just because of it being older it turns up cheaper?
Sorry for the long winded post but I'm doing lots of research to make sure I get the best one that'll last me the longest, thanks for any help.
COMPLETED - CANON - EOS 1300D DSLR Camera with 18-55 mm f/3.5-5.6 & 75-300 mm f/3.5-5.6 Lens with intervalometer remote shutterBy adder001
Canon EOS 1300D , Comes with lenses 18-55mm and 75-300mm zoom and strap.
Also Remote control shutter/intervalometer for creating self portrait or time lapse etc.
Non Smoking Household. perfect condition, kept in case when not in use.
Location Bolton, North West England. Collection or I can do local delivery in person. I would prefer this as postage would be expensive also the risk of damage in transit. If needed then I estimate around £15 due to size and amount of items if sent by courier.
My first try at astrophotography, the orion. Taken with canon eos 1300D on a static tripod.
Lights - 9 x 7secs
Iso - 6400
Lens - 18- 55mm kit Lens at 55mm
Stacked em in DSS and did little tweeks in Rawtherapee, i'll try to learn photoshop to improve the results
Looking forward to some suggestions
I just upgraded to a 6D and checking in theory, what is the ideal ISO and frametime for the new setup.
Looking at the read-noise characteristics, ISO should not be kept low - however, increasing the ISO kills the full well capacity, at ISO3200 I got only 2400e-(!), which quickly leads to DR problems. I feel ISO1600 could be a meaningful compromise between FW and read noise.
Regarding noise and frametimes: I know, long subs are in general preferred. Looking at the overall S/N formula, in theory I'd loose only about 20% on the S/N if I shoot 10 subs instead of one long exposure thanks to the ~3e- read noise.
Is my maths right? If the read noise is significantly below 5e-, can we really go in photon counting mode/save a lot on mounts?
I made a quick excel plot on the story: practically ISO3200 delivers the same results using 10 frames as 5 frames shot at iso 800. I added 0.2e-/sec/pixel dark noise (~5°C cooled eos 6D value) and a signal, that generates 150electrons in a 2 minutes sub, I didn't add photon noise.