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This has been a bit of a project. Last year I worked out that my 200mm Canon F2.8 lens and ASI1600 would frame the whole of the Veil complex quite nicely. I captured Ha and OIII data for the east and west nebulae with a Tak FSQ 106 and added this into the widefield image. Although the Tak data had to be shrunk down it did add a bit of extra resolution where it was needed.
The difficulty for me has been the processing. I have found it really difficult to tease out the faint wisps of detail and have tried the usual routines of micro contrast adjustments using curves along with Scott Rosen's Screen blend/mask inversion method but the results weren't great owing to the close proximity of faint and bright nebulosity. I'd heard about the PI process tool for removing stars, Starnet, so loaded this and had a rare foray into PI. This proved very helpful. It was a luminence created from Ha and OIII using the 200mm lens with the Tak data mixed in. Then the starless layer was added in PS with the screen blend mode at 50% opacity. The nebulosity detail was so well preserved I didn't need a mask. After blending I reduced the stars a bit more using the starless layer again and darken as the blend at 50%. I should really unleash some of the stars to add a bit of "punch" but I've wrestled with this data enough for now! I plan to use it further as I look deeper into the Gorgon that is PixInsight!
Telescope: Tak 106 for E and W veils. Canon 200mmL lens
Camera: ZWO ASI 1600 pro mono cmos, Gain 150, offset 50
Filters: Baader 7nm OIII and Ha
E+W Veil 10x30 mins each channel for each nebula. Whole complex 50x5mins for each channel
Captured with SGP, calibrated, aligned and combined with PI, processed mainly with PS but PI for Starnet. Ha mapped to red and OIII to both blue and green
I bought my first telescope, SW 150pds about 6 months ago with the purpose of astroimaging "when i feel ready". So far ive used my Nikon D810 for that, and I'm now planning on taking the step buying my first AP camera.
My targets would be DSO's, and not planetary. I want a mono-camera, not color.
I want to get away with a very good camera to a reasonable price (wouldn't we all...) and in this regard I've been drooling on the ZWO ASI 1600MM Mono for some time. The price for it is in the upper part of my budget, but I'm willing to if its worth it. I've seen from other treads that sensor-size isn't everything, and dynamic range and gain and all is just as important, but i have trouble understanding it all 100% when it's all new to me, but in my experience i am a practical person who learns things much better and faster with the gear in my hand. So without getting to technical, and staying as objective as possible - please help me with;
1. Is this a good camera to go for?
2. It's sold with options of filters 1.25", 31mm or 36mm - Why these options, and what determines what i would choose?
3. Would you go for another camera in this price range, and why? - Or to rephrase it a bit; If you were in my shoes, which camera would you og for?
I'd appreciate any help:)
I might add, that i understand that with my lack of experience, buying a mono-camera with filters and all might seem premature, but for some strange reason. I enjoy these "way over my head"-projects and figuring out things as time goes - I just need some guiding in the right direction.
I just try to show the beauty of the night sky, and again the possibilities with a smartphone. There are already better applications at the google play to make the night lapse easy. At first I used the Gif maker pro. It's a good app to edit the frames, before creating video, but you can't save the videos in good quality. Now I use the TimeLab app (same developer, as Intervalometer app), in the editing it has not so many options, but with this app you can save the videos in 4K too, or full HD. This video is 360 frames (each 30 sec exposition at ISO 800) Huawei P10 monochrome camera, Intervalometer app, TimeLab app. Pictures taken in Kleinwalsertal, Austria 2019. 09. 23-24. (The video is full HD, I don't know, why, but it doesn't run continuesly on my PC, when I watch that back on SGL. I hope, on your monitors you can enjoy it!)
I spend a day here to analyze my master flats and what vignetting I have on my lenses and telescopes. It's very simple done but still interesting to set figures on it.
It's done on a full frame camera and I use the values from the center and the corner of the sensor. The corner is 22 mm of from the center on a full frame sensor. I never liked to have strong vignetting in my optics, and in the future I want to go for bigger size than full frame.
I have put together a page over the vignetting I got:
Maybe interesting for some of you to have a look at.
My telescope shall handle a medium format sensor of the size 48 x 36 mm with the setup I have now. My medium format optics already do it. Just missing the medium format camera.