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I am looking to buy my first cooled CCD camera and would like some advice on the best combination of camera, filter wheel and filters for my setup.
I currently use DSLRs (1 modded and 1 unmodded) with a Altair wave Ed80 triplet mounted on a NEQ6. I guide using a Orion SSG, which works really well, and mostly image DSOs (nebulae and some widefield shots of galaxies).
I have looked at some cameras online but don't really have a clue where to begin. My budget for camera, filters and filter wheel is about £2.5 - £3k.
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hello again troops, and sorry to have to invoke the power of your collective intellect once more. Should be the final time for a while, and will bring Jaffa Cakes to the star party for anyone who can assist
I'm finally about to push the button on the camera. I'm not quite decided between the 460ex and 490ex, but for the purposes of this question, it is immaterial.
I image through my SW120ED DS-PRO. I have the dedicated 120ED field flattener, which has an M48 thread on the camera end. Optimum sensor distance is 55mm give or take a millimetre.
So I obviously need a filter wheel. The SX standard filter wheel with 7 spots looks good, I use 36mm unmounted LRGB/NB, so I can fit them all in and avoid dust bunnies (and pigs might fly). I think this is 25mm thick. I then need to add an OAG, the SX one is 13mm. Total so far is 38mm.
Atik cameras of this ilk have a back focus of 13.5mm, so lets add that in. This gives me 51.5mm. With me so far? Is my maths correct? For this very reason Martin has dissuaded me from the SX814 as it's back focus is much bigger.
Questions: How do I attach this assembly to the M48 thread on the focal reducer - any ideas? Will it fit, or do I need an adaptor - anyone else done it? Once I get this sorted, I should be able to pop a delrin shim or two into the mix and tune the last couple of MM, dependent on the adaptor thickness (if needed).
Do I have to account for the optical properties of the filters? do they add/remove physical distance to sensor? Or am I invoking too much Physics into this... For the record, they are all the Baader 36mm unmounted, and should be, ahem, parfocal with each other (or thereabouts)... I use a moonlite autofocuser, so not an issue, but just wondered if it affects the spacing of the sensor - focal reducer thingy.
I really hope someone understands all this better than I do - I'm getting rather confused by the whole malarkey
Has anyone else had problems connecting the Starlight Express Filter Wheel to a Windows 10 machine? My filter wheel model number is SXFW-543. Connecting the USB cable causes it to continually connect and disconnect. I've tried different USB cables, same problem occurs. I've installed the SX filter wheel ASCOM driver and Filter Wheel Program but windows does not recognise the hardware.
Any help would be much appreciated
By Joel Shepherd
I'm just in from an ultimately unproductive first night with an Atik EFW2 and am not sure how to proceed.
I have it set up with a 9 1.25" filter wheel. During a short indoor test a few nights ago, it seemed to be working as expected.
Tonight when I plugged it and connected Atik's FilterWheelRunner to it, it reported itself as having 7 holes. After much fooling around with cables, restarting the program, restarting the wheel and finally rebooting the laptop, I gave up, unscrewed the whole optical train and checked out the wheel. It turned, but stiffly. When I took the cover off and pulled back the little shaft that turns the filter wheel it spun more easily. After doing that a few times it seemed like it was turning better so I re-assembled the whole train and tried again.
This time it correctly reported itself as a 9-filter wheel, and it made encouraging noises when I tried to select a filter. After an hour of collecting data, though, I realized that the filters weren't properly positioned directly in front of the camera: they stopped about half a filter diameter short. Now I'm packed up and inside.
What gives? Is there an adjustment I can make to reduce the pressure between the drive shaft and filter wheel, or otherwise enable the wheel to turn easily? Anyone else run into this sort of problem before?
Thanks in advance for any helo! -- Joel.