Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Hey guys, I'm not sure if anyone is interested in this but I'm always forgetting where certain features are in the hand controller so I created this menu tree for the CGX with the current firmware. Man, what a pain it was. I didn't realize how deep the structure was until I started handwriting it out. And then I find out the manual for the CGX-L has the menu tree in it! Why didn't they include it in the manual for the CGX? They are pretty much identical though I went into a little more detail in mine.
CGX Menu Tree
I can send it to anyone that wants it as a PDF if you send me a private message with your email address.
By Bino Pete
Celestron XLT 2" diagonal
Includes 2" - 1.25" adapter
The diagonal is in excellent condition
May swap for Baader Hyperion 68 degree 10mm eyepiece or Baader Aspheric eyepiece 31mm or 36mm - these must be in excellent condition with caps etc
Price includes postage (1st class signed for)
Cash payment or fees paid via Paypal.
I am new to imaging with telescopes, so far i have had good results with DSLR lenses mounted on a Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer.
I have the opportunity to use an Orion Optics ODK12, I understand that I will require a T ring adaptor and one or more extension tubes, has anyone had experience attaching a full frame DSLR to an ODK12 or similar that can point me in the right direction please?
Request: Can someone with a Nikon D5300 upload a couple of RAW Dark frames, preferably of 120secs or longer duration, and if possible with the approximate ambient temperature when shot??
I am considdering finding a used Nikon D5300 for astrophotography instead of my wifes D7100.
The consensus around the web is that the D7100 and it's Toshiba sensor has really bad dark current noise, particurlarly when doing longer subs.
This fits nicely with the results im getting after having cranked up the sub length, it is REALLY bad.
I would like to compare the darks of my D7100 to those of a D5300 as it is supposedly one of the best "entry level" DSLR's when it comes to sensitivity and low noise.
Thank you in advance.
We had a couple of clear night over the weekend (finally!) so i decided to put the man-flu to one side and get back to imaging. I mostly went for the Rosette Nebula (still a WIP for now) but once it passed behind the neighbour's house i was starved of any other Ha targets. The big, bright moon was well up at this stage, but the skies were crystal clear so it seemed like such a waste not to use them. So, i decided to go for M81 & M82, seeing as they were well positioned, and just hoped that shooting galaxies under a bright moon wouldn't be anywhere near as bad as shooting nebulae in RGB under the same conditions.
Due to the lateness of the night, and my own health limitations, all i could manage was 140 mins of Ha on the 1st night, and 90 mins of RGB on the 2nd night. I made a boo-boo on night 2, and captured at ISO 800 instead of 200, which resulted in most of the stars being blown-out (i really, really hate how SGP is obsessed with ISO 800. why won't it let me set a default?!). The Ha data wasn't really of much use if i'm being honest. The OSC data picked up the Ha portions of M81 just fine, so it was just the jets in M82 where it only really added something, although i do think it was worth it in the end.
Here's the capture details:
9x 600s RGB (2" IDAS-D1)
7 x 1200s Ha (2" 7nm Baader)
30 Flats, 50 Bias, dithered aggressively every frame
Stacked in APP, Processed in PS (i used the Ha data for the Red channel in the RGB image).
It's obviously light on exposure, i would ideally have liked at least 3 hrs of RGB, but beggars can't be choosers i suppose, so i'm calling this one done and moving on
I haven't done much RGB or galaxy imaging, so C&C welcome as always guys.