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I've been dabbling for about a year and am having a lot of fun.
Nothing too serious and I don't have mega expectations but I'm starting to wonder if my images could be sharper and there's something I'm missing.
I'm attaching a picture which is the best 10% of a 3 minute video with 500d 'bolted' straight to the 200p f5 scope. No filters...no barlows...just camera straight on.
It's sharpened and saturated after the fact so in every way this is the sharpest I can get it.
I've always had the same issue whether it's with a single shot, stacks of shots, or stacked video.
Views through the eyepieces (circle-T 12.5/25) are mega sharp!
I'm happy that collimation is very good and it was a remarkably clear night tonight.
All in all I'd be pretty happy with this image (maybe over exposed a bit...) if the craters with shadows didn't make me want to rub my eyes.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice!
By Padraic M
How can I set up APT so that it always connects by default to my imaging camera? I have an irritating problem that APT will regularly connect to my guide camera, even though that camera is already connected in Phd2.
I have created two APT shortcuts on the desktop, one specifying camera 2 (which usually is the guidecam) and the other specifying camera 1 (which is usually the imaging camera), but it looks like cameras 1 and 2 are not absolutely assigned to the ASI1600mm (imaging) and ASI290MC (guiding).
At APT startup, in the log it will say 'Connected to ASI1600mm' and then imediately say 'sensor size 5.6mmx3.2mm'. Then I know I have a problem as it's obviously not the 1600! I can usually sort it out by disconnecting, Shift-Connecting (to get the camera selection dialog), and selecting cameras 1 and 2 until I get the correct sensor size.
There must be a better way?
Hey there! So if you have a telescope as mentioned in the title, you probably noticed that the focus wheel stops working after a bit.
Well If you look under the focuser you can see a small metal piece with 4 screws on it. You need a Philips head screwdriver to unscrew these, WARNING there's a lot of superglue(which actually isn't needed at all) so wear gloves!after you've unscrewed
the metal piece a small black 2 ended piece should fall out. If it didn't fall, take it out. Now place your focusing wheels back without that small piece that fell out and screw everything back in.
The remaining black piece that fell out should probably be thrown away.
Now just don't focus out to the max and everything should work just fine!
I hope this helped(btw I'm new here so i might've butchered the terminology) *just let me know
I bought some Williams Optics Binoviewers. They appear very nice quality but I cannot achieve foucus with them on a 5" Celestron Newtonian, FL = 650MM fr = f5.
I have not used binoviwers before today and I bought them primarily for my new telescope which hasn't arrived yet, a Celestron 9.25 CST.
I wanted to try the binoviwers out on the 5" today but could not achieve focus. I also tried using the 1.5 x Barlow that came with them.
Is there a reason they won't focus? Do you think they will be OK on my bigger scope?