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EQ6-R owners club


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@Greg Shaw according to the specs on the Pegasus website they are "4 x 12V DC Power outlets for your equipment". I have had no issues with my mount running via the PPA so the 12v must be sufficient to run the mount.

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After 8 months of owning the eq6-rand being disappointed as it performed like my old hypertuned heq5-pro i finally managed to get it to outperfom my heq5-pro. The main issue i have with it is that tha

This is how I did mine, made a little video for YouTube. The balance after doing this does seem better than just doing it by feel.  This method obviously useless for battery powered mounts

I was rather lucky with my Christmas Bonus and splurged on a new mount to replace my EQ3 Pro Synscan....  Yep, I took delivery of a shiny, new, heavy, glorious EQ6-R from FLO.   It's sort of

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On 15/02/2021 at 12:55, Greg Shaw said:

Hi Everyone 

I was wondering what are you using to power your mount?

I initially used a 12v 8A mains to cigarette adaptor sold to me by RVO when I purchased the mount from them. I later swapped to the Pegasus Pocket Power Advance with their own power brick which is 12v 10a. When I look at the Pegasus control panel I can see the input was 12.4v.

I have been told that I should be driving the mount with 13.8v.

This annoys me bit because the Pegasus unit is not cheap and is sold as a unit to do this exact thing. So I am wondering how you are al powering your mounts from the mains as I only use my mount in the garden.

Thanks Greg

I use the Pegasus upbv2 to power my eq6 and it’s perfect. 

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@Dinglem @Richie092

Well the Nevada arrived today and I did some testing with the Pegasus. I can confirm that if you feed it 13.8v the Pegasus will still work and even show that voltage in the Pegasus control panel. I wasn't sure if the PPA would output that voltage so I asked Pegasus and they responded saying that it will output what it is input which is great news because it will mean I can still run everything from the PPA I just need to power it from the Nevada.

The reason for this question about power supply to the mount was because I have been told that I should be driving the EQ6-R pro mount with 13.8v as this will help with RA guiding as it reduces the spiking by 30%.

On heavier payloads it has been proven by several sources that the sweet spot is 13.6-13.8v. This is because the mounts electronics, namely the voltage regulation circuit. They are designed to handle DC battery power, which is a nominal 12v, but in fact runs from 10.8-14.4v range from a lead-acid battery. Once the voltage drops, the motors torque output is also reduced. On small payloads this isn’t an issue until about 11.2v. However, if you want flat graphs, then 13.8v is the way to go.

 

IMG_8090.thumb.jpg.5e1eb4dd892a8d779790a115a93ec260.jpgIMG_8089.thumb.jpg.18f88d9446ca538a47fc685cfbaf9c67.jpgIMG_8091.thumb.jpg.7d8b745d5ab261b34ac87d01e5893040.jpg

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After a long absence, I have returned with a question..

 

how long will my mount last if I leave it in a wooden garden shed, unused due to excessive and endless cloud?  
 

maybe I should start the cumbersome process of shifting it to the garage...

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11 hours ago, Greg Shaw said:

 

@Dinglem @Richie092

Well the Nevada arrived today and I did some testing with the Pegasus. I can confirm that if you feed it 13.8v the Pegasus will still work and even show that voltage in the Pegasus control panel. I wasn't sure if the PPA would output that voltage so I asked Pegasus and they responded saying that it will output what it is input which is great news because it will mean I can still run everything from the PPA I just need to power it from the Nevada.

The reason for this question about power supply to the mount was because I have been told that I should be driving the EQ6-R pro mount with 13.8v as this will help with RA guiding as it reduces the spiking by 30%.

On heavier payloads it has been proven by several sources that the sweet spot is 13.6-13.8v. This is because the mounts electronics, namely the voltage regulation circuit. They are designed to handle DC battery power, which is a nominal 12v, but in fact runs from 10.8-14.4v range from a lead-acid battery. Once the voltage drops, the motors torque output is also reduced. On small payloads this isn’t an issue until about 11.2v. However, if you want flat graphs, then 13.8v is the way to go.

 

IMG_8090.thumb.jpg.5e1eb4dd892a8d779790a115a93ec260.jpgIMG_8089.thumb.jpg.18f88d9446ca538a47fc685cfbaf9c67.jpgIMG_8091.thumb.jpg.7d8b745d5ab261b34ac87d01e5893040.jpg

I have been watching this thread with interest as I have been considering whether to purchase a Pegasus "Ultimate Powerbox v2" unit.  I am tired of wiring up power every time I set up not to mention the risk of cable snags. I am really just weighing up whether the unit will actually bring me the full benefits as I already have my USB connections managed with a separate hub. It would be nice to have on a single unit but if it still means unplugging lots of cables then no point.

That aside I read from the Skywatcher EQ6R Pro Manual that the power requirements are DC11- 16V 4A? 

I am only power from the mains so do not have any concerns on having enough power. Presumably the mount actually draws 13.8v and not 16v?

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41 minutes ago, Droogie 2001 said:

I have been watching this thread with interest as I have been considering whether to purchase a Pegasus "Ultimate Powerbox v2" unit.  I am tired of wiring up power every time I set up not to mention the risk of cable snags. I am really just weighing up whether the unit will actually bring me the full benefits as I already have my USB connections managed with a separate hub. It would be nice to have on a single unit but if it still means unplugging lots of cables then no point.

That aside I read from the Skywatcher EQ6R Pro Manual that the power requirements are DC11- 16V 4A? 

I am only power from the mains so do not have any concerns on having enough power. Presumably the mount actually draws 13.8v and not 16v?

The mount will draw as much current as it needs from any source between 11 and 16V. Most 12V stuff regulates that voltage down to 5V or 3.3V for any internal electronics (since 12V microcontrollers etc basically don't exist), so will tolerate a wider range of input voltages than precisely 12V. 12V is generally taken to include the range of voltages a 12V lead-acid battery or charger will normally supply, which will be somewhere between 11 and 15V. Normal "float" levels for a charged 12V battery are around 13.8V, which is why many "12V" supplies actually target this with their output to accommodate the usual voltage sag as increasing current is drawn.

Generally any 12V device will be absolutely fine running at 13.8V.

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Thanks for the confirmation. Whilst discussing the Pegasus unit I looked at both the advanced and ultimate versions.  I only have USB2 devices and I need x4 USB ports. The product specification states that only three of the USB3 ports can be used with USB2 devices, thats an issue for me.

I would be connecting a pole master, skywatcher eq6r pro, Moravian CCD and a guide camera. I guess I am stuck as none of these are USB3 meaning 1 port short.

The ultimate specs states x4 USB3 fully compatible with USB2 and x2 USB2 ports so no issues there. 
as the price difference is considerable has anyone used x4 usb devices on the advanced unit? I struggle to see why the pole master wouldn’t work but appreciate if one of the ports has no ability to use USB2 then I guess that leaves the ultimate device as the only option?..

 

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@Droogie 2001 I have the PPA and it annoys me that I can only use 3 of the USB ports as none of my equipment will work in port 1, which is USB3 only. I therefore have to connect my mount directly to my laptop, this is not a big issue as that part of the mount doesn't move that much. Hopefully when I get round to buying a dedicated Astro-Camera it will work in that port, maybe others on here are already doing so and can let me know.

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10 hours ago, Dinglem said:

@Droogie 2001 I have the PPA and it annoys me that I can only use 3 of the USB ports as none of my equipment will work in port 1, which is USB3 only. I therefore have to connect my mount directly to my laptop, this is not a big issue as that part of the mount doesn't move that much. Hopefully when I get round to buying a dedicated Astro-Camera it will work in that port, maybe others on here are already doing so and can let me know.

Thanks. It is odd that the first port is USB3 only when the others are both USB2/3. Historically astronomy equipment is always behind on the technical front, lets be honest we have only just seen serial ports finally being replaced with USB ports. My setup requires me to move everything each time so although not a major problem with plugging mount to my laptop it starts to lose its appeal. The Pegasus ultimate is over double the price which makes the alternative hard to swallow.

I have a USB hub and all of PSU's velcro'd to the mount's legs which helps speed setup a little but cabling is a pain as much of it needs disconnecting each time.
Need to give it more thought as the idea is to try and reduce setup time but not sure I am going to see much benefit from this.

 

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One question about the eq6-r that bugs me for some time. Can i remove the handle the mount has during imaging and screw it back when transporting? It is in the way of my filter wheel usb cable when the mount slews past the point of the handle and i don't want to damage anything

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@Droogie 2001 I'm not sure if its an option with your set up as I can't see it. But I have used the usb ports on the back of my camera to connect other devices EFW and Focuser because I have the same problem with my ASI1600MM-Cool I can't connect it to USB3 port 1 it needs to be one of the others because the camera needs a USB2 connection made first before it then swaps to USB3

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3 hours ago, kookoo_gr said:

One question about the eq6-r that bugs me for some time. Can i remove the handle the mount has during imaging and screw it back when transporting? It is in the way of my filter wheel usb cable when the mount slews past the point of the handle and i don't want to damage anything

I think so long as the screws are replaced (potentially with shorter equivalents) you'd be fine. You just want to stop debris getting in.

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Hi all... A very basic, simple question about this mount! I've done some searching and haven't been successful, can anyone tell me the diameter of the bolt that connects the mount to the tripod? Is it a 'standard' 3/8 or something different?

Thanks...

 

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On 20/06/2020 at 15:46, discardedastro said:

There's nothing internal on the board, IIRC - voltage regulator but that's all. The connector's keyed so polarity being correct is the responsibility of the cable.

With respect to overvoltage/overcurrent protection there's none needed. If you overload the mount weight-wise it's going to have issues regardless of what you do extrinsically.

If you're worried about having enough capacity in your supply to provide sufficient current (and thus keep the voltage steady etc) then you want capacitors, not a boost-buck converter, but I don't know of anyone who has done that. Capacitors bring their own issues. I'd stick to a good-quality power supply.

I am planning to use a 12 volt to 15 120 watt converter between my power supply (usually going to be battery) and the mount. My reasoning is I want to be able to accommodate different battery systems without worrying about under voltage issues.  The converter is touted as high efficiency, so.... One caveat, I'm an engineer so I'm comfortable with insuring correct polarity and what not. All the reasonably priced converters I've found are definitely aimed toward folks that like to tinker,  definitely not plug and play.

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1 hour ago, Holtdoa said:

I am planning to use a 12 volt to 15 120 watt converter between my power supply (usually going to be battery) and the mount. My reasoning is I want to be able to accommodate different battery systems without worrying about under voltage issues.  The converter is touted as high efficiency, so.... One caveat, I'm an engineer so I'm comfortable with insuring correct polarity and what not. All the reasonably priced converters I've found are definitely aimed toward folks that like to tinker,  definitely not plug and play.

High efficiency just means not-terribly-lossy - it has no real bearing on this (other than being another part that's losing you efficiency and liable to fail).

Boost-buck converters don't really fix undervolt issues; I've got some scope graphs somewhere, but broadly speaking these sorts of converters tend to completely blackout when they get overloaded or the input voltage drops too low, and you end up with short transients down to <2-3V or "choppy" power.

The right way to avoid undervoltage issues is a suitably dimensioned battery or power supply. The overall price will be the same and you end up with fewer parts to go wrong, mis-wire, etc!

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OK, question for the mechanical wizards...

I've been getting (for a few weeks now, but given sky availability, maybe longer) some odd calibration results and associated warnings in PHD2 about orthogonality of axes. Some calibration results (all from one night) are shown below:

186245869_2021-02-2822_21_48-PHD2LogViewer-PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-27_181257.txt-PHD22.6.9Linux.thumb.png.042295bbc01de4e0e663edfa2a808d58.png2075946275_2021-02-2822_21_54-PHD2LogViewer-PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-27_181257.txt-PHD22.6.9Linux.thumb.png.f6ed198a9fb446f6416b020a0cd34e6c.png61963558_2021-02-2822_21_58-PHD2LogViewer-PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-27_181257.txt-PHD22.6.9Linux.thumb.png.c20a962bdf21c61c8955f8c8cd36e901.png2112249684_2021-02-2822_22_03-PHD2LogViewer-PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-27_181257.txt-PHD22.6.9Linux.thumb.png.7b873b9d0bc9f0382c2dabffa05a67ae.png

These are obviously not "quite" at a right angle to each other. Guiding appears to be working okay though in some cases room for improvement.

210710144_2021-02-2822_22_31-PHD2LogViewer-PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-27_181257.txt-PHD22.6.9Linux.thumb.png.4aa1936bae89f53f322921b03cc49f8d.png1137239310_2021-02-2822_22_42-PHD2LogViewer-PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-27_181257.txt-PHD22.6.9Linux.thumb.png.33e3a3da55777230ff5f3227cdcf8556.png

My question is - is this likely to be mechanical (or should I be looking at e.g. my OAG?) and if so where should I start for diagnostics? I did go through the SW backlash adjustment many moons ago and I'm now thinking maybe I need to repeat the exercise, at least on the declination axis.

PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-25_184927.txt PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-26_193641.txt PHD2_GuideLog_2021-02-27_181257.txt

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1 hour ago, Merlin66 said:

I’ve had this occasionally when I’ve calibrated PHD too far from the equator.

Hm, I'll try manually calibrating. I'm running with the Ekos/KStars scheduler most nights, and for some reason this seems to recalibrate before each imaging sequence (even with "Auto restore calibration" checked in PHD2) - which naturally means I'm not usually calibrating near the equator.

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17 hours ago, discardedastro said:

Hm, I'll try manually calibrating. I'm running with the Ekos/KStars scheduler most nights, and for some reason this seems to recalibrate before each imaging sequence (even with "Auto restore calibration" checked in PHD2) - which naturally means I'm not usually calibrating near the equator.

Well, did a manual calibration bang on the equator/meridian intersection and got similar wonkiness alerts. But only the second time. Backlash as measured by the guiding assistant appears fine (450ms correction pulse). So thinking some mechanical still. I'm not sure what a wobbly OAG/guide camera might look like but that's one possibility (though the revised ZWO one is pretty solid, with grub screws cinched down) and beyond that it's got to be something more fundamental.

Maybe this is the year I get the courage to do a rebuild and replace bearings etc. It has sat out in wet and unpleasant conditions (under cover, but still) for best part of 3 years now.

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This is Chandru after a very long hiatus away from everything during the pandemic, I got my first vaccine shot yesterday!  I mustered enough courage to pick up where I left off in the long road to astrophotography.  After all of this time I have added to my astrophotographers gear, the full set: EQ6R PRO, 8" Skywatcher Quattro Newtonian, Synscan WiFi adapter, ASIAIR PRO, Skysafari 6 Plus, ASI120MM Mini Guide Camera with 30F4 Scope, Canon T6i DSLR Unmodified Primary Camera, NO filters, Zwo EAF automatic focuser (not installed yet), iPad/iPhone only for imaging sessions, Mac Pro server for Image Stacking and Processing using the fantastic and free SiriL tool (https://siril.org) for macOs. Completely ditched the hand controller that came with the eq6r replaced with Synscan Wifi.  Phew .. That is the current setup.  I am a high-school computer science & math teacher and purchased this telescope for a 3-week long immersive cascade session for my students with this setup starting on May 17th this year. 

First light with this setup was on Tuesday of last week (the ONLY clear night in a month) from my house balcony in light-polluted Seattle. My goal was to image M42 and then M81/82 with a meridian flip added in so that I can everything through its paces. For the very first time, I succeeded in imaging. You can judge the (poor beginner) quality of my first time images below.  

Alignment and Guiding: I first setup, balanced, and  leveled the telescope with all gear installed roughly pointing north. Fired up the SysnScan app on the iPad to connect to the scope wirelessly just to have the mount record date, time attitude, longitude from my iPad and to make sure everything was working as expected. This step is really no t necessary, but it gives me an alternative and direct way to control the mount without going via the ASIAIR. Then I fired up the ASIAIR PRO and connected to the mount, primary camera, guide camera. No EAF yet, but coming later. I then went into Preview - Focus on Polaris with bahtinov mask for the primary camera and visually for the guide camera. I then did the Polar Alignment PA with the plate-solving, 60-deg automated slewing and plate solving again as instructed. Never had to look through the polar scope on mount! I then carefully adjusted the Altitude and Azimuth bolts to get withthin a 4 arc-second precision. Then I selected M42 target from the ASIAIR to go to. It put it smack on the center of the primary camera image! Note that I had not done any alignment at all. I then fired up Skysafari Plus on my iPad to see all of this visually and for future go to slewing and saw the cross hairs on M42 precisely. All of this worked perfectly without any glitches. In ASIAIR I setup the light imaging sequence as described below - a very short sequence indeed as M42 was setting fast! (see below). When that was finished I slewed to M81 using Skysafar goto. I setup a longer 2-hour iimaging sequence (see below) in the ASIAIR with a meridian flip (exciting!). I asked the mount to go to Home after the imaging was done and power down.  I then retired to my living room with a warm fire going watching the scope do its magic from afar! I observed the meridian flip an hour or so later in my iPad and visually to the balcony from the comfort of my living room and see ASIAIR obtain the guide star once again and result imaging.  What a kick! It reminded me of my days in the GM tech center labs where I programmed dynamometers to test new engines through its paces operating for days on end with several changes in RPM and Torques etc! 

M42:  Each exposure was just 5 seconds long, at 400 ISO. I took a paltry 12 such images as Orion was very low in the Western horizon and setting fast! I then stacked and processed the images (in SiriL) with dark, bias, and flat calibration frames I took the following day. The total integrated exposure time was just 1 minute! Not great   I did not have enough time before Orion disappeared!

M81/82: Each exposure was 30 seconds long at 400 ISO. 300 images were obtained The total integrated exposure time was 2 hours and 10 minutes. No dithering. The guiding was OK (not great) with about 1.5 arc-sec average RMS error. I took down the RA and DEC aggressiveness to 50% or so. A lot of guess work!

Post processing in SiriL involved, Stacking with Calibration, Cropping, Stretching, and Color Correction specifically applied for M42 and M81 respectively using photometry data from  Simbad database. Further final processing was done using Photoshop. My images are below. Additional pics of my gear can be seen at the link here https://photos.app.goo.gl/pTJXCcFNYs4KMTmY9 

m42_will.jpg

m81_82_will.jpg

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Hi all. I'm considering getting a 15kg 10" imaging Newt but I'm wondering if my EQ6-R can handle the load OK. I've seen people run C11's and RASA11's on this mount with good results so I know it can handle the weight but I'm more worried about moment arm and those tubes are shorter. Does anyone have any exp imaging with a 10"+ Newt on this mount or know if others have had success with this size OTA?

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My EQ6-R  has a 10" Quattro sitting on top and does a good job, sub arcsecond guiding for the most part. Notionally I'd say the guiding is a little worse when the wind picks up a bit, as you would expect,  but I have no data to say how much worse.

The quattro is f/4 so shorter than your average 10" newt but still a metre long. How long is the OTA you're considering?

I must admit I hadn't considered moment until now, assuming that the net moment is effectively zero so long as the scope is well balanced. Wouldn't be the first time I'd made an incorrect assumption though!

 

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