Uncooled camera options for DSO

[Orion1]

Hi! Unfortunately cooled camera are out of my budget so I'm looking into buying a uncooled camera for DSO astrophotography with a 80/480 triplet.

What options should I consider?

 

[drjolo]

Have you also considered DSLR camera? Or you would rather go for dedicated camera. 

You could define some criteria like: budget, sensor size. There are some nice uncooled cameras from ZWO ASI with different sensors and of course prices. 

[Orion1]

Yep, I've been imaging with DSLR for a couple of years now. I would like to have a dedicated camera. Biggest sensor possible  Currently looking at ASI1600 and ASI183 uncooled.

[drjolo]

Friend of mine uses QHY183C cooled with 90/600 triplet and is pretty happy with that. I used QHY163C (the same as ASI1600C) and also was happy. Difference between these two cameras is that 183 has smaller sensor with smaller pixels, but is more sensitive overall (about 15-20% larger QE). It will be hard choice I think. You can check images made with these cameras at astrobin.com. But I must say when I compared images made with QHY163C cooled and Canon 550D the difference was not huge. In my opinion there is not large benefit going from good DSLR to uncooled color CMOS camera, especially if you can replace IR blocking filter from DSLR. But that are just my observations. 

PS - I know - I didn't help much  

[Orion1]

Thanks. I live under light polluted skies. What filter (minimum) is necessary for ex. ASI1600 for DSO imaging?

[LightBucket]

I would realy wait till you can afford the cooled version, as the uncooked will not be that much of a step up from what you have..for the sake of £75 I would have your DSLR modded if it hasnt been already, if it has, stick with it and save up more pennies..

[Orion1]

32 minutes ago, LightBucket said:

I would realy wait till you can afford the cooled version, as the uncooked will not be that much of a step up from what you have..for the sake of £75 I would have your DSLR modded if it hasnt been already, if it has, stick with it and save up more pennies..

Thanks. My DSLR just dies so I need to get a "new" one. This is why I consider a dedicated camera.

[jjosefsen]

This one was reviewed by Trevor Jones of astrobackyard.com and he got some pretty good results with it.

https://www.altairastro.com/Altair-Hypercam-IMX183C-Colour-Astronomy-CMOS-Camera.html

Look it up on YouTube if you want his words on it. I considered this one myself as the cooled ones are so Damn expensive, but I have a working dslr so om gonna save up for a cooled one instead.

[LightBucket]

24 minutes ago, jjosefsen said:

This one was reviewed by Trevor Jones of astrobackyard.com and he got some pretty good results with it.

https://www.altairastro.com/Altair-Hypercam-IMX183C-Colour-Astronomy-CMOS-Camera.html

Look it up on YouTube if you want his words on it. I considered this one myself as the cooled ones are so Damn expensive, but I have a working dslr so om gonna save up for a cooled one instead.

That one is a cooled camera...!

[jjosefsen]

1 hour ago, LightBucket said:

That one is a cooled camera...!

Sure it is fan cooled, but not TEC cooled which I am fairly sure the OP was talking about, and more to the point - it is cheap compared to TEC cooled cameras.

[wimvb]

If you suffer from light pollution, consider going the mono route. A smaller sensor camera with filters that you can use later on with a larger camera, eg an asi1600mm. The smaller camera can later function as guide cam. This will also open up the possibility of NB imaging.

[Orion1]

On 30.1.2018 at 07:34, wimvb said:

If you suffer from light pollution, consider going the mono route. A smaller sensor camera with filters that you can use later on with a larger camera, eg an asi1600mm. The smaller camera can later function as guide cam. This will also open up the possibility of NB imaging.

I’m living in a pretty lighr polluted area so I’m looking at mono cameras only with ha-filter to start with.

I want larger sensor m43 or bigger because that suits my equipment (a smaller apo).

[Adam J]

3 hours ago, Orion1 said:

I’m living in a pretty lighr polluted area so I’m looking at mono cameras only with ha-filter to start with.

I want larger sensor m43 or bigger because that suits my equipment (a smaller apo).

I think that you will be disappointed without the cooling to be honest, uncooled are mainly targeted at solar system imaging.

I cooled my DSLR and the performance difference from cooling the DSLR is massive. That leads me to believe that the greater proportion of the delta between DSLR and dedicated cameras is in the cooling.

Have you tried a H-a filter with the DSLR? It actually works very well. A UHC also works ok depending on just how bad your light pollution is.

You could try that while saving for a cooled camera.

The last thing that you should consider is your local temperatures, you dont state your location? But even in the UK the cooling is a significant help, so in warmer climates it would be absolutely essential.

[Orion1]

12 hours ago, Adam J said:

I think that you will be disappointed without the cooling to be honest, uncooled are mainly targeted at solar system imaging.

I cooled my DSLR and the performance difference from cooling the DSLR is massive. That leads me to believe that the greater proportion of the delta between DSLR and dedicated cameras is in the cooling.

Have you tried a H-a filter with the DSLR? It actually works very well. A UHC also works ok depending on just how bad your light pollution is.

You could try that while saving for a cooled camera.

The last thing that you should consider is your local temperatures, you dont state your location? But even in the UK the cooling is a significant help, so in warmer climates it would be absolutely essential.

I’ll save up for a TEC cooled camera.

I live pretty far north. During winter temperatures is usually -10 to -20 degrees celcius. It will certainly help but my experience is that the sensor heats up pretty quicky during a session anyway.

[wimvb]

-10 or colder definitely improves image quality. But with a cooled camera you'll have more consistent results, be able to take proper dark frames, and be able to image at -50, should you feel the urge.