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Over the past few days i've been gathering data on M31 due to the battery not lasting long and andomeda dissapearing behind a tree, therefore the mulitple imaging sessions. So far i've been out and me being me, only took dark, bias and light frames for the first 2 sessions but for the last one i also included flats... (The lights all have very slightly different settings cause i have been experimenting slightly... that being 45sec @ ISO 400, 45sec @ ISO 200 and 50sec @ ISO 100) Now DSS assinged all the correct bias and dark frames to the corresponding light frames but because i only have flats for my last imaging session it applied those to all the different light frames and not just to the last set...(and due to me moving the telescope / taking the camera off, the dust spots have obviously been moving around and that therefor dont work at all for the other light frames...) So my question: Is there any way in DSS to apply flats to only one set of light frames and if not are there any other apps with which i can do this with?
Can you help solve this mystery, please? Star Sense camera will not hold calibration with OTA after mount is rebooted.By StarGazingSiouxsie
Can you help me solve this mystery, please?
I have a 2020 Celestron 8" Edge Evolution Ltd Edition 60 Anniversary model. The OTA is carbon fibre and some of the artwork is different but for in tents & purposes it's a standard 8" Edge Evolution
The problem is, when the mount is switched off. the telescope will not maintain its calibration between Star Sense (SS) camera and the OTA. Please not I am not talking a SS alignment here - I'm talking about the calibration between the SS camera and OTA.
This is what happens - I will do a SS Auto Alignment and the goto will be out by some margin IE. way outside of a 25mm eyepiece. So, I then calibrate the SS camera to the OTA, re-align, and everything is working perfectly. The goto is more or less in the middle of a 12mm eyepiece. Next time I reboot the mount, I do my SS Auto alignment and the goto is way off again and I have re calibrate the SS camera to the OTA. Once I do that, everything works fine again. And so the cycle continues.
Have you experienced this problem yourself or do you have an idea of what may be happening? Before you offer your suggestions, please read this list as what I have done to try and solve this issue:
1. The tripod and OTA are absolutely level before booting up the mount.
2. Once I have booted up the mount, I enter time and my location, using GPS co-ordinates. I am extremely precise about this and am entering the correct time (and daylight saving as needed) to within 2 seconds. The GPS co-ordinates of my location as absolutely spot on as well - they are the same co-ordinates I use for all my telescopes and they are working perfectly. So this is defs not a time, date or location issue.
3. The SS camera is mounted perfectly It does not move at all. I have the calibration problem even after rebooting without moving the telescope's position at all.
4. I have even tried a new SS camera and handset. Exactly the same issue persists.
5. The handcontroller, mount and camera have all the latest updates.
6. The battery is working fine and holding it's charge perfectly.
As I mentioned earlier, once the SS camera is re calibrated, everything works fine and the goto is accurate. The problem only arises after rebooting the mount.
Any ideas, suggestions or sharing of similar experiences gladly welcomed, thank you.
I am really worried that I may have broken my new telescope.
It said it was going to be 100% clear tonight, so I prepped Celeste Bubble, my new 8" Celestron Evolution, and took her outside for her first light.
Within an hour it was 100% cloud cover
Within that hour, mutiple attempts at aligning my scope failed. I was using a smart phone and the SkyPortal app with Star Sense. I had the Star Sense HC completely unplugged, btw. A few people advised me to do that to try and help ensure it wouldn't affect m using the Sky Portal app. I am not so worried about the alignment failing.
What I am worried about is that during one of my failed alignments, the scope ended up trying to plate solve my house. So, being the lazy cow that I am, rather than pick up the telescope and move it to face clear sky, I simply loosened the azimuth clutch and spun it around 180 degrees.
After I did that, the scope would not track anymore. I could hear the motors turning (or doing something) but whatever I had in my eyepiece was moving out of view. It was tracking OK before this - I manually (clutches) aligned to Jupiter so as to at least see something and it was tracking Jupiter fine.
I checked the scope settings on my phone and it was set to track Sidereal, it hadn't been switched off by accident.
I tried another alignment which failed and that's when I spun the mount around 180 using the azimuth clutch.
Do You think I have broken something? Have you heard of this before? Is there some sort of reset or something I can do?
What a disaster of an evening.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give me
Complete beginner here, with this being my first post to the forum.
I recently bought my first scope and I've had a couple nights so far with just viewing. I've now decided to try my hand at utilising my camera and hoping to try stack images and get a decent shot of the moon. The issue I'm having at the moment is that I can't seem to get the moon fully in frame. Using a T ring adapter and Barlow lens attached to my scope I'm essentially cropping out edges of the moon, however when I remove the actual barlow lens and use only the adapter, T ring and my scope as the prime, I can't seem to focus.
This may be a pretty basic issue, so apologies, I haven't had much luck with google yet. I'm unsure if I require some sort of reducer or if I'm perhaps overlooking something.
For reference I'm using the following:
Celestron 130 EQ Fujifilm XT3 (APS-C) Barlow adapter/lens Kipon T2 Adapter for Fuji
Really appreciate any guidance or advice you can offer.
I'm on an EQ3 and I have had trouble calibrating it.
I'm trying to calibrate the reticule but ....
It seems that barrel of the polarscope is off axis in the tube - it sort of moves the whole image around, as if you were swirling a pair of binoculars around.
Maybe I can make a video.
Is it time for me to buy a fresh one that I didn't meddle with?
The outcome is that I can only shoot 20second images before the stars elongate.