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How does the Baader Aspheric 36mm match up against the Baader Eudiascopic 35mm?
Unable to find a twin for the latter, I have begun to ponder pairs. Baader have suggested the 36 is recommended modern replacement for the 35, especially with its switchable stem for either 1.25 or 2 inches.
Has anyone had experience with both models?
Televue state that the Ethos21 has 15mm of eye relief and 100 degree actual field of view in their published specification.
Has anyone actually MEASURED the eye relief and can confirm that this is indeed what it has?
Can anyone confirm that the Ethos21 actually does show 100 degrees FOV or is it actually less?
Thanks in advance,
By Ben the Ignorant
My other thread about keeping eye relief to the max was getting long, and this is about another kind of eyecup, so I started a new one. In case you want to read the previous thread:
The remainder of the eyepieces in my set feature more sensible eyecups that don't drag the whole eyepiece's outside chassis along with them when they spin. Those of the Nirvana/TS/William type have an internal mechanism boasting good firmness, one could leave it as is. Accessing the slot seems to require a lot of dismantling, always a bit risky, so I took no chance; these are complex and not cheap optics. Contrary to those oculars I worked on before, removing the rubber didn't expose the gears:
Better let it be, the cup has a very smooth and silent motion (no gritty sound), but so firm it never spun when I didn't want it to.
Same for my 3.5mm, 5mm and 9mm Myriads. Lifting the cup uncovers no mechanism, and performing a takedown on an expensive 8- or 9-lenses eyepiece is not reasonable, especially since I'm not sure if these are waterproofed or not. I'm showing only one but all three are topped by the same flange-and-glue retention system:
The Aero/Paragon on the other hand, seemed to have an accessible gear assembly as you see on this somewhat blurry shot (sorry for that). Can it be modded, too? Is the cup super-glued? Didn't know yet but lifting the cup brought to light the same oblique slot as before:
Also apparent is how some types of rubber are dust magnets. This one is sticky and soft, those with a more polished-looking surface and harder texture don't catch dust like this. The Myriad's rubber doesn't catch dust.
Removing the cup uncovered a triple-slot mechanism, one would be enough but maybe this is what makes the motion so very firm and very smooth at the same time.
Filling just one slot with a piece of electric wire totally jammed the cup, it does not have the slightest play. Recurving the wire before sliding it in there makes the job easier.
Funny how a soft material behaves as a totally rigid one when it's not allowed to yield in any direction, and so helpful! The wire needs to have the right thickness to fill the slot without making it difficult to reinsert the cup. It didn't fully return into place immediately, a short part of its circumference made a bulge because of the wire. Pulling it up and down a few times forced the wire completely into the slot, and once the rubber has totally slided down, everything is tight. Pulling off the cup is still possible by a motion of the fingernail, maintainance or restoring the mechanism for sale is not precluded.
I could have lived without that mod, but if your Aero's cup are too loose, or if you want to never bother with a field-rectricting cup, this mod might help you.
By Ben the Ignorant
Why crave for long eye relief, and then restrict it with a raised eyecup? Why conceive wide fields optics only to make them narrow with same raised eyecup? My Myriads and Nirvana/TS/William clones have a rotating eyecup that resists turning firmly, they never spin unless I want them to. The Meade/Maxvision 18mm/82° and 34mm/68°, on the other hand, possess a rubber eyecup that also serves as a grippy external frame. These oversize grips offered so much leverage to the turning mechanism, they triggered it often with no will on my part.
Almost each time I handled them, the integral cup spun, reducing the eye relief and field, plus it made me doubt if I had fully seated and locked them in the diagonal. The 34mm was the worst offender, its mechanism had almost no resistance at all. That was very annoying, when you observe you want quietness, your gear shouldn't be doing irritating things of its own.
Having had enough of that, I lifted the rubber with a handy little tool I always carry in my back pocket: the Dunlop Ultex guitar pick. Ultex is plastic, but it's the glassiest pick material, dump it on something hard and its sounds almost like glass foil or stone foil, if such a thing was possible (Dunlop's more rubbery Tortex was great but it's outdated, just compare). Still Ultex is flexible, a mandatory quality of guitar and bass picks. And it won't scratch anodized aluminum.
A 1mm thick pick did the job after a 0.73mm colleague broke; not tough enough. 0.60mm's give out the most harmonics but they were too thin at first sight for this. I don't play 1mm's anymore, they mute too much harmonics, however this one got a nice alternate occupation.
Experience from many other little jobs similar to this one made me keep the broken pick when most folks would dump it right away. Never trash something until the work is over. This piece of scrap plastic proved the ideal tool, with the right curvature and bite, to remove the crystalline superglue that remained on the metal cylinder.
The mechanism is simply a stud that moves inside a curved slot. I wiped the now-useless grease, and filled the slot with a short piece of electric wire to block the stud. Sorry for the blurry shot.
No need to glue the wire, the tight-fitting rubber housing keeps it in place. I did put three drops of glue to attach the rubber to the inside metal housing. I kept the caps on, but I should have taped them to better protect the lenses against tools and glue, big sin here! I didn't use superglue, I'll wait and see if that all-purpose Pattex sticks hard enough to both metal and rubber. If it doesn't, superglue it will be. The "tire" fits the "wheel" tight enough that even no glue could do temporarily.
Did the same with the 34mm:
Interesting how the crown's edge has some green anodizing that was destined to match the green deco of the eyepiece, had it been sold under the Meade brand. It was impossible to lift that massive rubber housing with a pick, I had to do it with a screwdriver, but it inevitably scratched the black barrel, which I patched up with a black marker. These are the black smears under the wire.
There is some risk in opening a high-grade eyepiece, so don't try before you have praticed on cheap or damaged ones. It also voids the warranty, be careful. Waterproof eyepieces are obviously a no-no for that mod! Assuming one could unscrew the sealed parts, humid air would enter through the thinnest opening, and ruin the anti-fogging protection.
I hope this is interesting even if you don't get to use the tip. I didn't know what I would find in there, nor did I know how I would fix the sloppy eyecup. Simply opening a bits drawer made me notice that piece of wire, bulb switched on inside my head. I had considered drilling the frame to insert a locking screw but what an awful lot more work and risk it would be!
Somehow it escaped my mind that I also own a 24/82 Meade/Maxvision ocular that has a turning integral rubber frame and eyecup, but much firmer fortunately; I might do the same mod for it or not. And a 7mm Panorama, if a preliminary, partial takedown shows it can be done safely. I'll keep you posted.