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I know, I know, this has been discussed endlessly here and elsewhere, but I've read lots and watched lots and some of it I understood and some of it I didn't. A lot of it I didn't, actually, mainly because every time I think I get it, someone else contradicts what I think I've 'got'.
I've reduced it all to this, regardless of the number of lights I take, assuming I'm using a DSLR, with all the below steps at the same ISO value as the shoot:
Bias - 50 frames with the cap on, exposure time=shortest
Darks - 50 with the cap on, exposure=as per shoot
Dark Flats - 25 with the cap on, exposure=AV mode
Flats - 25 with the cap off, diffuse white frames eg t-shirt with light behind it or morning sun, exposure=AV mode
I know everyone has their own take on this (which is kind of my problem understanding it) but, reducing this to the very, very, very basics, as a starting point for a total noob with calibration... would this work?
I own a polarscope from FLO for a couple of months now, however I have never been able to get a correct polar alignment.
When I screw in the polarscope in the mount completely then the 3 angle is at the top (see picture).
However with this polaris keeps moving out of the circle when I polar align it. (Polar alignment seems not to work)
When I loosen it I can get the reticule to 0, however the polarscope is very loosely in the mount.
How to best get the polarscope correctly into the mount and get an accurate polar alignment.
Hi All, I am posting what I suspect is a newbie mistake question but hoping that someone can assist with the issue of flats.
Although I have been fumbling around the sky, taking snaps at leisure, recently I became serious. I have read up about the different calibration files (flats, darks, bias) and they seemed to make sense; different ways to capture the image defects and extract those from the image of the sky. After a few weeks (months) of further fumbling I went back to the very first target to receive my attention, M42 Orion Nebula.
In short, I took 20x 30s exposures in LRGB and ran these along with 20x LRGB each of darks, bias and flats. To obtain the flats I used a diffuse sheet of perspex (lightbox material) and an LED video lamp that has 180 white LEDs, turned to its lowest setting. Attached below is the stacked Luminance flat and the light image. In the lights I am getting very strong marks from dust and I had thought that the flats would subtract this but looking at the flats the marks are completely different shapes and do nothing to remove them from the lights.
The attached has been further stretched to show the issue. Now, I am obviously doing something wrong but I have no idea what, any pointers from the vast pool of knowledge will be much appreciated.
First post here, and I'm pretty new to AP, just picked up a Star Adventurer mount a couple months ago and have been happily playing around with it with DSLR and various lenses and a 72mm Sky-Watcher refractor. I'm new to the whole setup process, and I'm trying to do a decent job of leveling the tripod/mount, polar alignment, and I should probably think more about balancing the weight of things. I've gotten some decent shots, like 60-120 second subs with up to 300mm lens. My last time out I was getting star trails at 200mm and 15 second exposures, which could have been just a sloppy polar alignment, but today out of curiosity I looked through the polar scope and rotated the RA axis 360 degrees, and I saw that the target circle jumped a few times. I'm guessing that the target circle should appear not to move while the numbers 3, 6, 9, 12 would rotate around as I rotate the RA axis. So my guess is that the polar scope would need to be calibrated?
I have an unusual problem with my AZ-EQ6.
I decided that I wanted to try pulse guiding rather than ST4, to get rid of a cable.
I use MaxIm for all my controls, capture, guiding, pointing etc. and I use the EQMod ASCOM scope driver.
My initial pulse guiding efforts worked ok, the mount would move and guide etc, no worries. I was not pleased with the pulse guiding results after some fluffing around so I moved back to ST4 and this seems to be where my issues started.
Now, whether I choose ST4 or pulse guiding, my mount will no longer calibrate in the Y axis (Dec, I believe), or for that matter, guide. I have tried the move commands from inside MaxIm guide tab and X responds to a 10 pixel move but not Y.
I tested with both PHD 1 & 2 with the same results.
If it were a hardware issue, as in the mount has a Dec problem, would I be able unable to operate the mount with the hand controller or on screen motion buttons, both of which slew the mount fine? I could understand if the guide port were malfunctioning that ST4 would possibly have an issue but not when the mount slews as directed, so pulse guiding should work.
Could it simply be that my EQMod driver has got confused and needs to be re-set, or am I looking down the barrel of sending my mount back to the dealer?
Does any of this make sense?
Thoughts and feedback most welcome.