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I am really worried that I may have broken my new telescope.
It said it was going to be 100% clear tonight, so I prepped Celeste Bubble, my new 8" Celestron Evolution, and took her outside for her first light.
Within an hour it was 100% cloud cover
Within that hour, mutiple attempts at aligning my scope failed. I was using a smart phone and the SkyPortal app with Star Sense. I had the Star Sense HC completely unplugged, btw. A few people advised me to do that to try and help ensure it wouldn't affect m using the Sky Portal app. I am not so worried about the alignment failing.
What I am worried about is that during one of my failed alignments, the scope ended up trying to plate solve my house. So, being the lazy cow that I am, rather than pick up the telescope and move it to face clear sky, I simply loosened the azimuth clutch and spun it around 180 degrees.
After I did that, the scope would not track anymore. I could hear the motors turning (or doing something) but whatever I had in my eyepiece was moving out of view. It was tracking OK before this - I manually (clutches) aligned to Jupiter so as to at least see something and it was tracking Jupiter fine.
I checked the scope settings on my phone and it was set to track Sidereal, it hadn't been switched off by accident.
I tried another alignment which failed and that's when I spun the mount around 180 using the azimuth clutch.
Do You think I have broken something? Have you heard of this before? Is there some sort of reset or something I can do?
What a disaster of an evening.
Thanks for any help or advice you can give me
I'm on an EQ3 and I have had trouble calibrating it.
I'm trying to calibrate the reticule but ....
It seems that barrel of the polarscope is off axis in the tube - it sort of moves the whole image around, as if you were swirling a pair of binoculars around.
Maybe I can make a video.
Is it time for me to buy a fresh one that I didn't meddle with?
The outcome is that I can only shoot 20second images before the stars elongate.
I am hoping someone might be able to help with a possible way to shoot dark and bias frames on a DSLR (canon 700D) without the need to cover the scope or camera, ideally using APT scripts
My thinking is that the camera, has a noise reduction mode where it will take the light shot, then with the shutter closed it will take a dark frame and subtract it from the light. So could you take a series of dark frames on ATP and lock the shutter down?
If anyone knows I would love to know. Would be great to automate the lights, park the scope and have it run darks and bias, without the need to go out to it and cap up at 3.-4 in the morn
I know, I know, this has been discussed endlessly here and elsewhere, but I've read lots and watched lots and some of it I understood and some of it I didn't. A lot of it I didn't, actually, mainly because every time I think I get it, someone else contradicts what I think I've 'got'.
I've reduced it all to this, regardless of the number of lights I take, assuming I'm using a DSLR, with all the below steps at the same ISO value as the shoot:
Bias - 50 frames with the cap on, exposure time=shortest
Darks - 50 with the cap on, exposure=as per shoot
Dark Flats - 25 with the cap on, exposure=AV mode
Flats - 25 with the cap off, diffuse white frames eg t-shirt with light behind it or morning sun, exposure=AV mode
I know everyone has their own take on this (which is kind of my problem understanding it) but, reducing this to the very, very, very basics, as a starting point for a total noob with calibration... would this work?
I own a polarscope from FLO for a couple of months now, however I have never been able to get a correct polar alignment.
When I screw in the polarscope in the mount completely then the 3 angle is at the top (see picture).
However with this polaris keeps moving out of the circle when I polar align it. (Polar alignment seems not to work)
When I loosen it I can get the reticule to 0, however the polarscope is very loosely in the mount.
How to best get the polarscope correctly into the mount and get an accurate polar alignment.