DSLR imaging, with MPCC and 2" filters

[tooth_dr]

Hi all, does anyone image here using a DSLR and a Baader MPCC, and also use 2" filters eg OIII, UHC, etc.  Do they screw onto the end of the MPCC?  Does this affect the image in any way?  I'm thinking of a new filter, and I dont necessarily want to buy an EOS insert filter?

TIA

ADAM

[spillage]

Hi @tooth_dr,

I would be more tempted to save the money and put it towards a dedicated mono ccd/cmos. I think due to sensor you need a massive amount of lights to really get a good result using narrowband on a dslr and from what I understand using a dedicated ccd/cmos is so much easier.

I have a baader uv/ir screwed into the end of my mpcc and then use a ha clip in when needed, not really sure if I should be removing the uv/ir whilst using the ha filter so I just leave it in place.

 

Cheers

Spill.

[tooth_dr]

Just now, spillage said:

Hi @tooth_dr,

I would be more tempted to save the money and put it towards a dedicated mono ccd/cmos. I think due to sensor you need a massive amount of lights to really get a good result using narrowband on a dslr and from what I understand using a dedicated ccd/cmos is so much easier.

I have a baader uv/ir screwed into the end of my mpcc and then use a ha clip in when needed, not really sure if I should be removing the uv/ir whilst using the ha filter so I just leave it in place.

 

Cheers

Spill.

Thanks Spill.  I agree, but am not in the position to buy a CCD/CMOS at present.  I do have the Ha insert filter which actually works well with my DSLR, so was thinking about getting an OIII to do some bi-colour NB images.  If I do buy a CCD/CMOS in the future then at least I would already have one filter if I buy 2" and not another insert filter.

[spillage]

I have been looking down this road allot lately. I would consider the cost of the 2" filter carefully for several reasons.

1. The cost an awful lot compared to 1.25" or 31mm.

2. You might end up paying more for a 2" filter wheel and maybe need two as I think most are only hold 5 filters (not sure as I stopped looking at 2"filters after seeing the price dif).

I have decided to just keep on saving until I have enough to buy the filters/wheel and mono camera, even if I have to sell my dslr kit and go without for a short time.

[tooth_dr]

Seems like sound advice Spill. If I can find a second hand filter at decent money then possibly I won’t have much to lose. Otherwise I’ll keep saving until I can get an ASI1600MM-cool

[spillage]

That is the exactly the same thought as me, although there are rumours of ATIK bringing out an equivalent and I thought I saw something about the asi1600 being upgraded!!

[Adam J]

7 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

Hi all, does anyone image here using a DSLR and a Baader MPCC, and also use 2" filters eg OIII, UHC, etc.  Do they screw onto the end of the MPCC?  Does this affect the image in any way?  I'm thinking of a new filter, and I dont necessarily want to buy an EOS insert filter?

TIA

ADAM

Here are some examples of Bi color images I have taken. The Veil and the Rosetta are with a 1000D and the North American nebula is with a 550D. I use exactly the setup you are talking about. The filter screws onto the end of the MPCCMK3 and I use Baader 2inch filters. The 7nm H-a and the 8.5nm OIII. My only caveat is that you need a sensor temperature of <7c to make effective use of the OIII filter. For that reason I cool my DSLR. The H-a is much more forgiving.

The Wall 9x600s H-a + 6x900s OIII, ISO800, 550D.

Rosetta: 8x600s Ha + 7x600s OIII ISO800, 1000D

Witches Broom: 8 x 1200s Ha + 8 x 1200s OIII, ISO800, 1000D

[tooth_dr]

Fabulous images @Adam J

The last images I took, APT told me the temp was 19deg. I don’t have time to modify the camera to cool it, so maybe I can’t go down this route!  20 minute subs will definitely test a lot of things.

 

[Adam J]

Just now, tooth_dr said:

Fabulous images @Adam J

The last images I took, APT told me the temp was 19deg. I don’t have time to modify the camera to cool it, so maybe I can’t go down this route!  20 minute subs will definitely test a lot of things.

 

It works with 10min subs just fine, depends on how deep you want to go. I have a friend who is using a UHC clip to good effect on his non cooled camera. That is probably your best bet all in all. You will get down to <7c in the depths of winter and that allows you to get the sub lengths without too much noise. But its not much good if you can only image with the filter for 25% of the year. As for time to modify...well it took me 3 months to build my cooling system but if you cant afford a pro camera its the only choice if you also love in poor light pollution and you want to image.

[tooth_dr]

4 minutes ago, Adam J said:

It works with 10min subs just fine, depends on how deep you want to go. I have a friend who is using a UHC clip to good effect on his non cooled camera. That is probably your best bet all in all. You will get down to <7c in the depths of winter and that allows you to get the sub lengths without too much noise. But its not much good if you can only image with the filter for 25% of the year. As for time to modify...well it took me 3 months to build my cooling system but if you cant afford a pro camera its the only choice if you also love in poor light pollution and you want to image.

I barely have time to scratch myself these days, building a camera cooling system would just simply be impossible! 

I definitely don’t live in a badly light polluted area that’s for sure, I just really enjoy to look at the images done in NB. But I wouldn’t say I’m fussed on monochromatic images, hence my desire to use a second filter to compliment my Ha filter and create some bi-coloured images.

I think with all things addressed and considered in the thread, a commercial cooled CCD/CMOS is the wise choice for me down the line.

 

[Adam J]

Just now, tooth_dr said:

I barely have time to scratch myself these days, building a camera cooling system would just simply be impossible! 

I definitely don’t live in a badly light polluted area that’s for sure, I just really enjoy to look at the images done in NB. But I wouldn’t say I’m fussed on monochromatic images, hence my desire to use a second filter to compliment my Ha filter and create some bi-coloured images.

I think with all things addressed and considered in the thread, a commercial cooled CCD/CMOS is the wise choice for me down the line.

 

Ok, you can do a very close bi-color approximation with a UHC filter on a DSLR.

Red Pixels = Ha

Green Pixels = OIII

Blue Pixels = HB + OIII

So what you can do is stack the image -> Save the image -> remove blue and green from the image -> save as H-a channel -> load the original stacked image -> remove the red and blue pixels from the image -> save as OIII

You now have two mono images one with only H-a nebulocity in it and one with only OIII nebulocity in it.

Process the two channels separately -> recombine the two channels -> create a synthetic green channel

And you have a very very close approximation to a bi-color image. You just have to lose those blue pixels that contain both hydrogen and oxygen signal. So if you like the style...its a suggestion.

 

 

 

[tooth_dr]

3 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Ok, you can do a very close bi-color approximation with a UHC filter on a DSLR.

Red Pixels = Ha

Green Pixels = OIII

Blue Pixels = HB + OIII

So what you can do is stack the image -> Save the image -> remove blue and green from the image -> save as H-a channel -> load the original stacked image -> remove the red and blue pixels from the image -> save as OIII

You now have two mono images one with only H-a nebulocity in it and one with only OIII nebulocity in it.

Process the two channels separately -> recombine the two channels -> create a synthetic green channel

And you have a very very close approximation to a bi-color image. You just have to lose those blue pixels that contain both hydrogen and oxygen signal. So if you like the style...its a suggestion.

 

 

 

Thanks for that, definitely something that I would like to try.