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Battery box


wookie1965

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4 minutes ago, symmetal said:

Yes, that cable looks much better Wookie. And your new switch is working too. Good job. :smile:

Are you going to fit some bracing in the box to stop the battery sliding about?

Alan

Yes that is the job for tomorrow for my Son I am terrible with wood cannot even saw straight.:icon_biggrin:

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That's a good plan. :biggrin:

If the switch LED is too bright you could fit a resistor to the led terminal and connect the blue wire to the other end of the resistor. About 4k7 to 10k ohms will do. It takes very little current so a standard 1/4W resistor is fine. Also the wire to the led terminal can be a thin piece of hook up wire as it'll be taking less than 10mA.

Alan

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Actually Wookie, it might be worth considering using the fully insulated female spade terminals like these particularly on the main fuse from the battery as it looks to be only held by the wires going to it. Having so many exposed +12V connections throughout your box could be risking some shorts if your working on it in the dark and you have rings or a metal watch on. Just a thought.

Alan

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56 minutes ago, symmetal said:

Actually Wookie, it might be worth considering using the fully insulated female spade terminals like these particularly on the main fuse from the battery as it looks to be only held by the wires going to it. Having so many exposed +12V connections throughout your box could be risking some shorts if your working on it in the dark and you have rings or a metal watch on. Just a thought.

Alan

Or get some heat shrink on them so you dont have to re-crimp them all.

Nice Job paul should do you well over the coming winter season. I like it :thumbright:

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59 minutes ago, symmetal said:

Actually Wookie, it might be worth considering using the fully insulated female spade terminals like these particularly on the main fuse from the battery as it looks to be only held by the wires going to it. Having so many exposed +12V connections throughout your box could be risking some shorts if your working on it in the dark and you have rings or a metal watch on. Just a thought.

Alan

Just sent for 20 of each Red and Blue will swap them over no use taking any chances. I give the cable a bit extra and I have plenty left if I need to make some more up.

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2 minutes ago, mapstar said:

Or get some heat shrink on them so you dont have to re-crimp them all.

Nice Job paul should do you well over the coming winter season. I like it :thumbright:

Thank you Damian, yes just got to find a place to go to now when I get clear nights.

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You'll most likely find that your illumiated switch is too bright.  Here's how I solved the problem....

 

Before I had two full size illumated switches.   These weren't LED, as they got hot over the course of a night.

post-46378-0-62366200-1442697863_thumb.jpg

 

After seeing this thread you put the idea of LED's in my head, so I changed to this setup.

5a002ac79e9cb_File06-11-2017092603.thumb.jpeg.df9802d96f19268a234970c3d44b257a.jpeg

 

The LED's are much smaller, still run of 12v and are nowhere near as bright as before.  I thought this is were you were headed with your design.

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29 minutes ago, cjdawson said:

You'll most likely find that your illumiated switch is too bright.  Here's how I solved the problem....

 

Before I had two full size illumated switches.   These weren't LED, as they got hot over the course of a night.

post-46378-0-62366200-1442697863_thumb.jpg

 

After seeing this thread you put the idea of LED's in my head, so I changed to this setup.

5a002ac79e9cb_File06-11-2017092603.thumb.jpeg.df9802d96f19268a234970c3d44b257a.jpeg

 

The LED's are much smaller, still run of 12v and are nowhere near as bright as before.  I thought this is were you were headed with your design.

To be fair the Led in the on/off button is not too bright here is a picture.

IMG_0364.JPG

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On 05/11/2017 at 23:37, mapstar said:

Or get some heat shrink on them so you dont have to re-crimp them all.

Nice Job paul should do you well over the coming winter season. I like it :thumbright:

Well replaced the main connectors with insulated ones and did as you suggested and put heat shrink on the rest all safe now. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't think there is a standard size for the 2 pin adaptors for this type of connector, they're normally sold along with the socket and power supply like this

Untitled-1.png.5753d61cdf5d7881246e74d7ac992c85.png

These ones have the pins at 90 degrees compared to the one you have and have one pin larger than the other. Some have the pins the same size so that they can be plugged in either way to reverse the polarity. The pin spacing may also vary between manufacturers.

It's probably best to contact whoever sold you the lead as to whether they have a different adaptor end of the size you want that will fit and will do a swap.

Alan

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26 minutes ago, symmetal said:

I don't think there is a standard size for the 2 pin adaptors for this type of connector, they're normally sold along with the socket and power supply like this

Untitled-1.png.5753d61cdf5d7881246e74d7ac992c85.png

These ones have the pins at 90 degrees compared to the one you have and have one pin larger than the other. Some have the pins the same size so that they can be plugged in either way to reverse the polarity. The pin spacing may also vary between manufacturers.

It's probably best to contact whoever sold you the lead as to whether they have a different adaptor end of the size you want that will fit and will do a swap.

Alan

Yes these are so you can reverse the polarity i have sent the man I bought them off thanks.

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